18T_BT

NP - I was curious myself. Here is another chart I've seen posted many times:

Goughary

I don't know if the new lines are cunifer. They are not the same as what was used on the car when it left the factory, and seem to be a type of malleable steel with an anti corrosion coating. But most corrosion in brake and hydraulic lines happens on the inside...so when I make lines they will be copper/nickel...cuz that's what they should be. Need to find stainless m10x1.0 fittings...I have stainless protective coils for the lines that are exposed to road debris around the wheels, so as I replace them, I'll throw that in there for good measure. Not that it's ever been an issue. But all good.

As to bleeding twice per year. Good to change fluids often regardless and since I use my car everyday, and in a c4 we have a lot of hydraulic fluid, helps to keep things fresh and low water in the lines. Also helps to flush out the crystals that can gum things up, before they gum things up. So once in the fall and once after winter.

Even w a twice per year flush, the clutch slave fluid still comes out black and dark after six months, so I assume the lines there in my car have at some point in the past begun to corrode and that's where much of that black/green is coming from. Anyway. Lots of water and grit in there and good to flush it out.

The car will never hate me for giving it fresh fluids. 80 dollars and two hours work...worth every bit.

-nick

Correct on the kw rates, kind of. They aren't progressive. Front spring will be stamped 30-200. Meaning 30N-m (171 lb-in) and 200mm free length. Rears are 80-250, aka 457lb-in and 250mm.

The small numbers are for the helper springs which don't affect the pratical rate.

Should be a noticeable improvement over your previous Bilstein/H&R. I think you'll be very happy after an alignment

AOW162435

That looks vaguely familiar.


https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...eed-setup.html




Andreas

-nick

^Nicely done! And now I know that I'm not the only one on rennlist who brakes for bánh mì.

Goughary, I expect you to 1-up this and include both pdas slaves in your remote setup. Must keep the 993 in its place.

Goughary

Andreas was it your post in pelican? That's where I got it from, though I had been trying to figure it out for a while. Putting it through to the engine bay was brilliant...

If it was yours, tell me how you sealed the m6 side to the slave. I'm planning to use a copper crush washer and permatex thread sealer. Did you need either?

Nick---the diff slave...on the front of the trans. Hadn't thought ab that...great idea....wonder if I can find a 5 foot braided line and do a double bleed block in the engine bay...might get crowded in there...

DobermanDad

Did you have that line custom made?

Goughary

Nope. Standard line. Bought from speedway...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainl...End,28907.html

AOW162435

Yes, that was my thread.

I gave the M6 adaptor 4 or 5 wraps of Teflon tape, ensuring it was only on the threads. No leaks.


The line, bulkhead fitting and bleed nipple came from Pegasus Racing.




Andreas

DobermanDad

Excellent! Thank you

911Jetta

Thanks for the KW V3 feedback! Very interesting.

Dutchman style? Worth a Plastidip test.

JasonAndreas

If you are worried about corrosion you should double-check before you decide to possibly go with an inferior aftermarket solution. The last hard lines I bought (this was a few years ago) from the factory were cunifer (like the originals) however unlike the original lines they now use an exterior corrosion coating.

A brand new soft line will dye the fluid black in as little as two weeks (maybe less but that is about the minimum time I've gone between flushes after installing a new clutch soft line).

Goughary

Thanks Jason, didn't know that abt the soft line...

The lines I just bought from Porsche were entirely a different material than the early oem lines. I was surprised. I wish you would come home from the islands already so I could show you in person!.....kidding - I'd stay as long as I could of I were you...let me know if you need me to drive a 964 down to you. Happy to oblige!

Goughary

Yep exactly. A couple of us really like that wheel. And it wouldn't be hard to do...just need to pull the trigger and do it...

Coming soon.

Goughary

kW v3 report.

Keep in mind the car is still only aligned by eyeball...oddly enough it drives straight and fairly well, but not having a proper alignement done, I can't and won't drive it hard yet. So all the info I get from the car and suspension is really only light cornering (hard for a normal driver I suppose, but in real terms, light)...and around town type stuff.

I received my three adjuster ***** today, so those are now in the top of each strut. I wish kW was smart enough to simply supply is all with a rebound adjuster for each strut, but I get it. Margins. Anyway, for very little money, you go to the kW website and order them. Or if you have a bunch of 1/4 drive stubby Allen sockets lying around, you could just stick those in..lol...

So now, particularly in the back, I can just wiggle my hand in there and make changes without worrying about dropping the adjuster ****. Which is good. I gave up on remote adjusters cuz once I have the settings down I'll know for track (Limerock will likely be the only track and that won't be often) I'll have a setting I like eventually and for the street, I'll likely have one setting I'll use all the time. Click click click and done. The only other thing to do, that I haven't yet done, is to get a smaller washer for the strut bolt to the trailing arms. The oem washer is so big it gets in the way of the compression adjusters in the rear.

So- I'm at plus four clocks from full soft on the compression all around and plus six from full soft rebound all around. So far I like this better than the other settings I've tried..but still more fiddling to be done and may change when I raise the car a bit and do the alignment. Car is RS height now - or lower since its settling. And I want to be more RS plus 10mm I think. I like the look at RS but I don't like the bump steer...which isn't terrible bump steer, but you feel it at this height.

The new upper cone spacers are en route, so once those go in, it'll be time to get serious and swap the washers in the rear, swap the cones in the front and set the car up properly.

The upper bearing perches were a fantastic upgrade. I highly recommend for anyone that went and changed to KW...I thought maybe id make ten sets or so to sell.

We have also found out - speaking of bearing perches, that these would be a very big asset w the Godspeed coilovers as well. As the spring windup can cause the perches to loosen, and then that's no fun...with the bearings they would stay put. Set up properly, the Godspeeds feel pretty good and for 850 plus 200 for the bearings and cones, a great buy.

Question I have about the rear monoballs on the kW...or monoballs in general in the rear....
In the front, I installed the oem foam, tape on bushing to the bottom of the strut tower for noise. In the back, nothing. But the squishy sound transfer in the back kinda bugs me. Has anyone added a similar bit of foam to the upper rear strut tower to combat the squeaky squishy noise from the monoball hats?