Teardown begins. Suspension madness...
05-28-2016, 06:46 PM
#841
Race Car
Thread Starter
kw adjusters are a 2mm allen - basically - you can use a 1/4 drive 2mm stubby allen socket on a flexible 1/4 drive extension and a thumb wheel - and done.
Ive given up on remotes - i won't use them enough and I'm already adding a remote clutch bleeder to the engine bay - so i bought 3 extra rebound adjuster ***** and they are going on w blue or red locktite and done. for the few times ill be adjusting them, i'll suffer and unclip the ac hose and air filter and reach back.
Ive given up on remotes - i won't use them enough and I'm already adding a remote clutch bleeder to the engine bay - so i bought 3 extra rebound adjuster ***** and they are going on w blue or red locktite and done. for the few times ill be adjusting them, i'll suffer and unclip the ac hose and air filter and reach back.
05-29-2016, 09:26 PM
#844
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You don't have to grind down the studs to remove the front bumperettes! I removed either the plastic wheel well covering or the plastic pieces below the bumper. And was then able to finagle a 10mm(?) socket into there and remove the mounting bracket from behind the plastic bumper.
05-30-2016, 01:25 AM
#845
Race Car
Thread Starter
I figured there should be a way. I've always followed this DIY from a previous rennlister. Always killed me to grind off the posts. Seems silly to not remove the bumper cover . But all good...thanks for the heads up. I'll look when I do the next one...
05-31-2016, 12:48 AM
#846
Race Car
Thread Starter
kW v3
I'm at plus four on compression and plus 6 on rebound. It's getting there. But really the spring rates are a bit high for the soft settings. Still having been playing with it, you can see there is a lot of performance gain to be made for track driving. I dig the setup possibilities. But, that said, so far, for street only, I'm more a fan of bilstein b6 w eibach springs and oem top hats front and monoball top hats rear. I may change that tune once all is sorted, but for the moment I would rather drive the Alabama car (which has this setup) than my own.
In other news, the an3-m6 adapter I found, the only one I've been able to find, the m6 portion isn't long enough to seat in the slave. So I bought copper crush washers and brake like thread sealer. This will make that end nice and drip free. And on I go to figuring out the best way to install the bleed line to the engine bay. No more fiddling way up under the rear to bleed the clutch. If this works well, I'm converting all our cars...since it saves me time and hassle for the twice per year fluid flush.
Eastwood had a huge sale this weekend on their brakeline flaring tool (and others)...so that's coming. This should get fun since now I can make good quality copper nickel lines instead of buying the steel lines Porsche now sells in place of the copper lines. And I can add a second pressure accumulator to play, and I can install my bias valve, la la la...the fun stuff. Oh - and curly brake lines for those that want hot rod bling...I know, I know, but you know one of these guys is going to want curly lines...
I'm at plus four on compression and plus 6 on rebound. It's getting there. But really the spring rates are a bit high for the soft settings. Still having been playing with it, you can see there is a lot of performance gain to be made for track driving. I dig the setup possibilities. But, that said, so far, for street only, I'm more a fan of bilstein b6 w eibach springs and oem top hats front and monoball top hats rear. I may change that tune once all is sorted, but for the moment I would rather drive the Alabama car (which has this setup) than my own.
In other news, the an3-m6 adapter I found, the only one I've been able to find, the m6 portion isn't long enough to seat in the slave. So I bought copper crush washers and brake like thread sealer. This will make that end nice and drip free. And on I go to figuring out the best way to install the bleed line to the engine bay. No more fiddling way up under the rear to bleed the clutch. If this works well, I'm converting all our cars...since it saves me time and hassle for the twice per year fluid flush.
Eastwood had a huge sale this weekend on their brakeline flaring tool (and others)...so that's coming. This should get fun since now I can make good quality copper nickel lines instead of buying the steel lines Porsche now sells in place of the copper lines. And I can add a second pressure accumulator to play, and I can install my bias valve, la la la...the fun stuff. Oh - and curly brake lines for those that want hot rod bling...I know, I know, but you know one of these guys is going to want curly lines...
05-31-2016, 12:50 AM
#847
Race Car
Thread Starter
And there has been a lot of talk around here about these:
Thoughts? I like it, I think.maybe we need to make a set and see how they look in person.
Thoughts? I like it, I think.maybe we need to make a set and see how they look in person.
05-31-2016, 01:22 AM
#848
Rennlist Member
What are the stock v3 spring rates?
05-31-2016, 11:47 AM
#853
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Are they steel or cunifer but (now) with an additional coating?
