I mentioned I was in the process of installing the power cut off switch. I currently have the battery on the disconnect but have to figure out what wires to wire the switch into to cut the engine.

I had to fabricate a SS bracket to hold the outer pull cable. I didn't want to drill into the cowl and have the big red pull lever or remote mounted switch. So I had to come up with something. The Rennline products are reasonable at $34 and this is what i came up with. I also had to pierce the rubber seal and then Black RTV it so no water gets in.

I was initially thinking of mounting a single pull cable on the left of the drivers side by the key but decided it was best to have a center location in case a passenger or driver side impact were to occur and render your left arm pinned or whatever.

So I felt this was best approach. It still leaves me lots of room for the gauges I plan on adding later in the dash.

 

I did drill and used the correct Cup-**** (inside&outside) that I bought from FVD. I needed some time to mentally land the decision to drill. But when I found the time-correct parts it felt alright and it looks good.

Thomas

 

What are your measurements bead to bead ? 3" outer and 9" inner is surely an 11J wheel ? My rears are 7.5" inner and 4.5" outer, so overall width is 12J but bead to bead is 11J and so it's seen as an 11J wheel for all intents and purposes.

 

Measurements are to the bead. So bead to bead is 12" outer lip to outer lip measures 12.75" I wanted a larger outer lip but price dictated. I also didn't realize they were measuring bead to bead but I took a chance at the price. So actual barrels are 9+ and 3+ would need to lay it out on its side to tell exact dimensions. I have no doubt I will be buying a second set one day just trying to get it up and running for now. All this work doesn't get me far without shoes.

BTW do you have a permanently mounted tow hook. I was playing with some rennline products but not sure I like how it fits the car. I am looking for a hope or something to come out from the front bumper grill area.

 

Expensive but there you go http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-964-...lica-tow-hook/
Installed pics here https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-tow-hook.html

 

Yup, as above but mine isn't a Fabspeed one. I also installed the support bracket as per RS.

 

Thanks guys.

Once again I am over complicating things. Simple enough to make myself and now that I see how it is installed I should be set to go soon.

 

What do you mean by the support bracket? I have a cup replica tow hook but have never had it fitted because of concerns that the force of towing would be localized to the middle of the tub and could distort the tub when it's used. That probably wouldn't matter to a cup car team but would matter to us if the act of towing caused more damage than the reason we had stopped for (e.g. we were only beached in the gravel). Using the standard towing point in the bumper means that the towing force is more evenly distributed across the width of the tub.

 

I agree although the tracks I drive don't use gravel it is still a valid point.

However, I do like the idea of having it low and out of the way. I will make my own. I plan on modifying the design to distribute the load over a larger area. I wasn't fond of the small aluminum angle they use. These tubs are quite sturdy. My body man had to straighten one out not too long ago and using the massive body puller they have it took a lot of force to get it to pull out.

I am going to rummage through my raw material bin and see what I can find to prevent any damage from occurring if used.

Hopefully it will never come to that.

 

I had a replica of the cup tow hook made for me. But on the inside I've used a piece of aluminium. about 30 cm long, 5 cm wide and 5 mm thick.

Thomas

 

Your Fikse wheels have .375" flanges? That is truly bizarre. The only wheel I have ever seen w/ that narrow a flange is the oe Fuchs, BBS are a close second w/ .4375" flanges

All the Fikse wheels I have seen have .5" flanges

Is is possible that you wheels were built w/ BBS flanges?


Assuming that you change the rear wheel 1/2 to an 8 w/ .375" flanges I get an ET of ~31.4 w/ backspace of ~7.25" as opposed to the original backspace of ~8.25" the front space remains the same @4.64"

 

^^^^^^^^
the knowledge that this man has is just incredible.

 

And he's written spreadsheets for virtually everything.

I'll be asking Bill for a thrust analysis of my tranny once we determine what the engine will do as I'd really like to stay with five speeds.

 

glad to do it, I'm very interested in the Gamroth motors and am leaning towards them for mine,

It's wonderful to see the work that some of you guys have already gotten.

 

I notice no backing plates for the rotors, Are you keeping the stock brakes? what's the plan for the backing plates?