cobalt

Well I am running into a dead end with the wheels. I called and left a message with Fikse and emailed them and they do not respond? I will pick this up later.

I have been working on converting the front suspension over to the 993 parts. Since I will be using the aluminum carriers from the 993 I have to use the 993 tie rods. So far I have pinned the 993 rubber inner tie rod ends. I drilled at 0 and 90 degrees inserted a roll pin which I have never been a huge fan of. If you bend the ends over the hardened steel has a tendency to break away over time and the pin can work its way out. I learned this years ago from a Wheelabrator sand blast unit I had at work. The high revolutions and vibrations had a tendency to throw roll pins quite often and over-sizing the pin didn't help. I discovered that double pinning them prevented the pin from working itself out. So I used a larger dia pin and inserted a smaller dia pin inside the larger pin. This keeps constant pressure on the outer pin and should never work its way out. Probably overkill but better safe. I also noticed that when drilling the pin closest to the ball joint that the rubber does not extend that far down.

First picture is the single pin second has the smaller dia pin inserted so opening is opposite the larger pin.

I love drilling factory new parts.

ThomasC2

aha, that is pinning!

Thomas

cobalt

I started installing the steering rack with a home made steering rack brace. Didn't see the need to spend $75 on a brace when the left over aluminum angle from my rear tail brackets and front RS style tow hook would do the same thing. I have been a little crazy with the red paint didn't realize till I looked at the picture but I want to make sure I mark all bolts that have already been torqued.

I currently have installed the 993 support on the one side. Switching over the A arm to the 993 support was more work than I realized. These parts are very inconsistent and are designed to be used with rubber bushings. There was a 0.050 difference in spacing from the rounded outer side or front to the back side of the rear tab from left to right side. If this is not perfect when using solid bushings and you tighten the front bolt it applies pressure on the rear tab and makes the entire assembly stiff. So dimensions have to be hand worked to make sure that there is no pressure applied when torquing these bolts.

BTW trying to install the steering rack by yourself has to be one of the most frustrating job of anything I can think of on these cars. Installing the engine tranny by yourself is probably easier. I think it took me 3 hours to get everything to line up properly.

cobalt

Might as well throw this up there. For those of you that aren't familiar with the 993 tie rods vs the old style 964 tie rods.

The 964 is seen in the picture. It is the piece that has the rubber bushing and knuckle. IIRC this is similar to what they used in the earlier 911's. The big upgrade for the older cars was to go with the 930 style mono ball design.

Since I am using the 993 aluminum uprights I have to use the 993 tie rods. The basic tie rod has a design that uses a pipe that is threaded on one end to thread the outer tie rod to (seen in purple). This pipe is slid over a smaller dia pipe inside the metal housing which is affixed to the lower mono ball side (red) and is not attached to the purple pipe. They fill the void with hard rubber which holds the parts together but allows for flex (blue). Not as much as the old style bushing but still is not as precise as if it were solid. Bill V had mentioned that the EVO GT2 style of the inner is smaller and the parts are fused together eliminating the rubber and flex. By drilling and pinning it should help with any slop or vague feeling especially as you go with solid bushings throughout teh rest of the suspension.

cobalt

Not much to report.

I sourced a set of Motorsports sway bars and have had a serious conversation with my wife. Looks like the power steering rack is now manual and I should have the engine in soon. There was a snag regarding the brakes but it looks as though I have the important part resolved. I was supposed to have a set of 968 M030 rear rotors to help me with the project but with the help of some local friends and a thread here I was able to source 993TT rear calipers and rotors for the build instead. Getting the ABS up and running will take some work though.

Does anyone have a good source for aluminum 993TT front rotor hats? I will need to replace the ones i have setup for the 965 brakes or use factory hats for now.

I was curious if anyone knows how much more fuel a 962 fuel pump flows vs the stock 964 or 964 turbo fuel pumps. Apparently for this build I will need two 962 fuel pumps in series another unexpected expenditure. Getting closer but not sure if i will be ready by the end of April.

cobalt

A little more progress.

Dual 962 motorsports fuel pumps going in.

Front RS sway bar is nice but I am thinking the rear is too small.

Longer studs new wheel bearings installed along with rear shocks.

ThomasC2

The rear isn't to small. You want traction not oversteer. Trust me!

blkmkiii

awesome

cobalt

I am stuck with the 455/685 spring rate of the H&R Super cup suspension. Didn't realize that these were made so that you can't use other springs with them unless you change everything else out but the shock. It should work since it was designed to work with the RS bars for the cup series. If not they will be replaced but I have to start someplace.

Chris M.

Ya think? WAY too nice.

JasonAndreas

Did you notice if there was any corrosion inside of your rear axle crosstube?

cobalt

The car is corrosion free. I have been over every square inch of it and have remedied whatever was there which was minimal surface only. The crosstubes are in perfect condition.

JasonAndreas

ok! Just a heads up, I've noticed in a few 964 that the primer is "thin" inside the tubes and what little paint made it in there was not applied evenly. I really had to stick my face up against the opening to notice.

cobalt

Any help is appreciated. I inspected all of that when I was making covers to close off the ventilation openings. The left over material from the sunroof has come in quite handy. I still don't understand why they retained them from the old torsion tube cars since they made such extensive revisions to the 964. They could have easily capped that off.


Got the tranny apart, now if I can only remember how to put it back together.

Actually I have the entire innards of a G50/20 with what appears to be 0 wear. Can't wait to get the new box and engine in the car. Hopefully next week we will be up and running. The short ratio box with guard 40/60 LSD should be a change from what i am used to.

FlyinTomato

your work bench looks so clean?