robt964

I got everything disconnected lastnight ready to drop the engine/trans tomorrow. All went without a hitch except whoever tightened the fuel line unions last did so ridiculously and unnecessarily tight Grrr.

I had intended to also remove the cat bypass but stopped short of doing so when I found this:




The engine side of the cat mounting flange looks in poor shape so I'd rather not disturb it. Is this pretty normal? I will address it but I'd rather not tackle this right now as it'll delay progress.

Lemass Automotive

good work, yes they always go a new header from porsche is £2500 !!
They do come up on ebay second hand.
Mine is in the same condition, im going to make a new plate using the cat as a template and weld it on in place of the old one. im sure a man of your skills could do the same

Lemass Automotive

just had a look on design 911 and its £1219 +vat, hmm wonder why two seperate people told me £2500 each???

robt964

Friggin' hell - I'm certainly not disturbing it then :-o Provided I can get a few months service from it then all good. Yeah, I'll wait for it to fail then look to do what you suggest. I guess the practicalities of doing so that will depend on the condition of the rest of the metal. One for back burner....

I've run out of my picture allowance (60)! How do I extend it?

Andy Roe

Yep, see that before. The best and cheapest way is to just have a new flange welded onto it.

g60pops

Had the same problem so got a new flange welded on:

robt964

Nice job! Was the heat exchanger removed to do this? I think I'd struggle to do it in situ.

g60pops

No, it was not removed. It was welded on in situ.

STUARTQ

Rob, if you need storage, I can help, also have some pallets if you need one. My office is in Queensbury and I'll be there this afternoon (Sat 1st) and tomorrow Sunday. PM or email if you need anything.

HiWind

Message mark or 911slow re more
Else just use [manage attachments] to post pics

robt964

Hi Stuart, thank-you very much for the kind offer. I think I might just have gotten away with it tho :-)

Had the whole of Saturday to play with the car so I got stuck in nice and early.

15quids worth of wood from Wicks and 15mins work saw me a good chunky/sturdy plinth that the engine and tranny could rest on. If need be I could move it out the way with a pallet truck. Firstly I got underneath and loosened off the supporting bolts each by 1cm. Using a jack each side, the car was lowered until it only just touched the plinth, making the loosened bolts go slack.



I then popped out the bolts, jacked the car nice and high and stood the chassis on axle stands where the forward tranny mount would normally sit.





Getting the suspension off wasn't nearly as traumatic as I'd prepared myself for. You can really lean on these bolts without the fear of shearing them. I did however invest in a little helper :-)
This baby got most of them out on its own. The really stubborn ones it hammered enough such that they were do-able with a long bar. This took so much effort out of the job. Ear defenders were a must as 20-30second blasts with this saw my ears ringing :-S


The only ones I couldn't do were the inboard ends of the spring plates. I didn't have a 12mm hex bit socket. I've ordered one so will have a crack once it arrives. Not looking too great are they!

I've now started the horrible job of degreasing and cleaning the tub to get a look at the kind of work that will need to be done here. Its not looking too bad. The rear anti-roll bar mounts are the worse with quite heavy corrosion but I think I've got here just in time. The rest is just 'normal' small patches of surface rust dotted around edges from various knocks and whacks over the years. I'll have to replace the passenger side jacking point as its partially collapsed and there is an inch long rust hole beneath it on the tub that will need to be dealt with.

The main shopping list so far looks like:

1) New LHS jacking point (which I already have)
2) Superflex outer bushes for the rear trailing arms
3) New spring plates (OUCH!!) not going to use the Porsche ones
4) Wheel bearings
5) Stainless braided pipe brake cables (I'll make up new hard lines to replace the other sections)
6) RS lightweight flywheel and clutch (wasn't going to do this now but hey... its all apart)
7) Rubber engine bay 'frilly skirt' :-)
Odds n sods like clips, K nuts

robt964

oh.. and loads of the engine tin is shot :-(

Vandit

If you end up getting *these types of spring plates* then get the rubber boots for the monoball on the end.

http://www.tarett.com/items/993-964-...oot-detail.htm

robt964

A question for the UK guys....
Any of you run your cars with no hot air?
Reason I ask is that this will only be a good weather car, and I'm wondering if it is something I *could* live without? It would greatly simplify things also which is a big bonus. This thought was triggered by the combination of the exhaust flange issue shown previously and the two hot air boxes that I uncovered today. Not sure If I'm using the right name for them but they're the boxes that sit each side next to the rear shock turrets that the hot air is fed into from the flexihose. These boxes appear to have a big metal ring/gasket that sits between them and the body Well, these ring type gaskets have great rust holes through them. Was just thinking would I miss the hot air if these together with the air-boxes and etc were all removed and the hole sealed up ? Thoughts / opinions ?

robt964

Thanks Vandit, yep, can certainly see the appeal of the boots. The picture of those spring plates in the link you posted, is that the *exact* one? Reason ask is that my spring plates have 4 bolt holes that attach it to the trailing arm (go back 4 pictures above), where that shows only 3?