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Old 04-23-2013, 05:25 AM
  #61  
STUARTQ
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Rob, I have a complaint!
The rubber hose you've cut and rapped around the braided hose, has not been done to you usual very high standard.
Can you re-do it and post an updated photo. It's disturbing me.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:42 AM
  #62  
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LOL - Ok how about a section of red silicone hose? and I'll also ensure the zip-ties are equidistant from the ends :-)
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:44 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by STUARTQ View Post
Rob, I have a complaint!
The rubber hose you've cut and rapped around the braided hose, has not been done to you usual very high standard.
Can you re-do it and post an updated photo. It's disturbing me.
Good point and well spotted... the cable ties are not equidistant from each end. I think you should remove the braided hose, remove the end coupling, slide on your oversize protector and press on a new coupling quick release coupling maybe even..!
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:47 PM
  #64  
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I am simply in Awe. You took on this incredible project in that small garage. Hats off to you brother.


Ken
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:36 PM
  #65  
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Rob, If you can try the red silicone and lets see how it looks, maybe we can take a vote on it.
if you want to go with LM964's suggestion, I can point you in the right direction for quick release couplings.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:53 PM
  #66  
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clean!!!
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:29 PM
  #67  
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As the front 1/3rd of the car is nearing completion it was time to shuffle down a bit further and start on the middle 3rd. Whipped the tank out this evening to get a better look at how far the rust had progressed around the fuel pump hatch. After a good rub down it was clear to see it wasn't looking very good :-(

I punched the screw driver through all the rusty bits and opened them up back to cleanish metal - Hmmm Swiss cheese. I'm a bit unsure on how to tackle this. Its going to be such a fiddly job. The small holes at the rear go through into the cabin so they'll be easy to get to with the mig welder and fill before grinding flat. The difficult ones are the larger ones around the edge of the hatch. The metal is foil thin. I may end up having to cut a piece of a 0.6mm thick steel sheet to shape and weld it over the top of the two bad edges... but ... I dunno ... welding upside down is not my bag!



View looking out from the hatch where the tank was. It doesn't look so bad from this side but those are still two big holes!



Anybody got any ideas?
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:38 AM
  #68  
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make some new sections from steel plate and cut them in rather than going over the top.
Easiest way is to cut out the sections and use those as templates.
Welding upside down is a right pain, just make sure you have fireproof overalls and gauntlets that go up to your elbows, remove all flammable items from inside the car too, also if possible have someone with you to keep a check on the inside of the car to make sure nothing is on fire, unless you have access to fire blankets which you can put on the other side of the welds.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:02 AM
  #69  
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Thanks Tom. I'll try and cut back the minimum I can from the edge of the hatch with the hope I can tack the new piece in place from below in 2 or 3 places but weld it in from the tank side above. Thankfully the interior is stripped back to the shell so no BBQ :-)
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:41 PM
  #70  
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I don't have any experience in body work at all, so excuse me if my suggestion is *&^% stupid.

There must be some scrap 964's about, is it possible to cut out a section from a scrap car and weld it in on your car?
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:35 PM
  #71  
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It's of course possible but not worth the trouble. It would have to be a very complicated/expensive part to fabricate to warrant it. If in essence all you are doing is a bit of sheet work like this it'll take 5mins with a pair of tin snips to get the shape you want.

I managed to get a bit of time this eve after work to start filling the smaller holes with weld. I did this sat in the car with the rig, welding from the inside whilst the Misses (bless her) lay under the car covering each hole with a copper block as I welded them :-p

Sorry for the [email protected] photo but you can just about see. Still needs another run with the grinder.



I did a bit of a tester of the upside-down welding but it didn't go well. I found it difficult to stop the weld pool from sagging so will have to weld from above in the fuel tank space. Just the three big holes to do now on Saturday, but I'll cut them out and butt weld in some sections as per Tom's advice.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:21 PM
  #72  
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Look's like that will turn out fine by the time you're finished.

Was you wife wearing a Nomax suit?
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:42 AM
  #73  
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Has your wife got a sister..?
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:19 PM
  #74  
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Didn't get much time on the car this weekend, but with a few eves during the week plus Saturday morning I got the fuel pump hatch finished off. It took aaaaaages to do. I just couldn't get in a good position from above to weld so had to go in from below. Took more goes than I care to divulge to get it right so the angle grinder saw alot of action! Anyway, its now all shiney flat metal again and after etching I gave it a coat of primer. Welding upside-down is a totally different ball game, especially in such close confines where its almost impossible to see what you're doing clearly and very difficult to get decent light on the area without casting shadows. Glad that job's done. I'll snap a pic and post later.

A new toy turned up earlier on tho :-)


In prep'ing the rest of the center section of the underside I noticed that a great many of the threaded screws that protrude from the tub onto which various body trim / covering trays fix to, are in generally poor condition. Some are missing, some now resemble just metal spikes but most now have very low thread depth remaining on them. I grinded the worst offenders off with the intention of welding new ones on. However after spending the best part of an hour on just ONE and failing to achieve a good clean weld I could be happy with, I gave up! Again, access and visibility meant I couldn't see what I was doing well enough. There's got to be a better way/solution to doing this. I've got far too many of these to replace, and from what I can see, they'll not last long before needing further attention as they just rust away. I'm seriously leaning towards cutting them all off and fitting in their place stainless M6 rivet bolts (think of them as like a riv-nut except they have a protruding threaded shaft instead). Can anybody see a reason why I shouldn't do this. Once crimped in and sealed up they should last forever! Thoughts?
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:34 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by robt964 View Post
Didn't get much time on the car this weekend, but with a few eves during the week plus Saturday morning I got the fuel pump hatch finished off. It took aaaaaages to do. I just couldn't get in a good position from above to weld so had to go in from below. Took more goes than I care to divulge to get it right so the angle grinder saw alot of action! Anyway, its now all shiney flat metal again and after etching I gave it a coat of primer. Welding upside-down is a totally different ball game, especially in such close confines where its almost impossible to see what you're doing clearly and very difficult to get decent light on the area without casting shadows. Glad that job's done. I'll snap a pic and post later.

A new toy turned up earlier on tho :-)


In prep'ing the rest of the center section of the underside I noticed that a great many of the threaded screws that protrude from the tub onto which various body trim / covering trays fix to, are in generally poor condition. Some are missing, some now resemble just metal spikes but most now have very low thread depth remaining on them. I grinded the worst offenders off with the intention of welding new ones on. However after spending the best part of an hour on just ONE and failing to achieve a good clean weld I could be happy with, I gave up! Again, access and visibility meant I couldn't see what I was doing well enough. There's got to be a better way/solution to doing this. I've got far too many of these to replace, and from what I can see, they'll not last long before needing further attention as they just rust away. I'm seriously leaning towards cutting them all off and fitting in their place stainless M6 rivet bolts (think of them as like a riv-nut except they have a protruding threaded shaft instead). Can anybody see a reason why I shouldn't do this. Once crimped in and sealed up they should last forever! Thoughts?

Nice toy!!!
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