BigMikeATL

I performed a valve adjustment over the winter and knew I'd be back into the car this Spring to replace the Filter to Thermostat line. Since that time, I've been running the car without the undertray and have noticed a couple of drips. I degreased and pressure washed the underside of the engine. The drips are coming from the chain cases. There is also some oil residue on the passenger side near the power steering pump but no drip.

For the most part the engine is dry but I hate drips. I'd like to do as much as I can while I have a lot of the back end disassembled, but I don't want the car to be down for more than a month. I also don't want to break the bank. I still have to find the A/C leak which I suspect is the evaporator or expansion valve. It was converted to R134 but since I don't have that many records, I have to assume neither were ever replaced.

Plans:
Chain Cover Gaskets This kit or buy OEM individual parts?
Chain Tensioner Gaskets
Oil Bridge Seals (chain case)
Power Steering Seals
Power Steering Hose
Filter to Thermostat Oil Line
Misc Oil Tank Lines (the ones that have hose clamps)
Crank Seal
Oil Sending Unit Manifold O-Ring

Tools To Buy
Oil Line Wrenches
Crank Pulley Tool

While I'm in there? (72k miles)
Check the Oil Filter return line
Powdercoat Valve Covers Red
Powdercoat Fan Red
Compression Check just because I have all of the tools. I know it's going to check on the very high side. I also have a leak down tester and could do that.
Engine mounts?
Engine cradle reinforcement? (my buddy owns a machine shop and has 6 certified welders that work for him) The Rennline kit is cheap.
The clutch shows no signs at all of needing to be replaced.

I could use some advice on the while you're in there but please remember the not wanting to break the bank. I'd like to keep the budget under $1500.

HiWind

Vandit

You'll probably want to powdercoat the two side and one rear engine tin. Check my threads created, I have a thread that goes over lots of those areas in the back, and I also have a thread that goes over those shorty hoses by the thermostat.

Also, check the charge on your alternator at idle. If it's under 14 volts, then budget to get the alternator rebuilt.

For the oil line wrenches, I bought a big set at Northern Tool that covers 6-32mm then bought a 36mm individually. I believe the 32mm and 36mm are the sizes you need, but it's good to have the whole set. The car uses lots of big nuts and fasteners throughout.

I'm not sure what crank pulley tool you're referring to. The puller/pusher bolt for popping out the harmonic balancer or the big special tool for keeping the crank stationary while you loosen and torque the center bolt? There's guys that have been able to get to that chain cover w/o removing the harmonic balancer. I'd probably try that approach first.

Silvertarga

Replace all hose clamps and I know you will like this one:
Your local BMW dealer will have the clamps you need and the BMW stuff is about $1.00 each and they are far superior to the ones used by Porsche

I had a leak at the oil tank to thermostat line, replaced clamp with BMW clamp and no more leak

Vandit

Yea, thanks to Silvertarga's advice, I used the BMW clamps. The part # is in one of my threads.

HiWind

I use Wurth Zebra clamps with turned up edges ... Do they compare w
those BM ones?

Vandit

Price point maybe?

From my thread where I covered this.

Mr.Alex

Oooooooo, take lots of pictures so us other folk can muster up the courage when the time comes.

Ruf964

if not using porsche clamps specific, then why not go down to the auto parts store and get a box of nice stainless steel screw clamps? similar to the bmw clamps in construction but sturdier in my experiance and likely around 8.00 for a box of 10. at least in that ballpark.

timrichardson

Hi BigMike,

This thread may be of interest as I have just attacked a few of the jobs you mention:

http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=79926

Good luck,
Tim

Navaros911

Mike,

Similar to what I got going on I think but in my case a rebuild was suggested. Not sure yet on what I will do, but my thread links through to Pelican where there is a nice writeup on the work.

On my BB phone (yes they still exist) so I don't want to go llook for the link. It's just too unfriendly to do that.

Good luck... I think I'll be on your tail with the work.

ThomasC2

A very common leak is also the O-ring/seal between the chain cases and the cam housing. It may look as if the oil is comming from the covers but the oil is comming from the rear side of the case and the runs down to the lowest point which are the lower bolts holding the covers. I replaced these seals a couple of months ago. The O-rongs were more or less flat instead of round and the diameter had shrunk with 1-2 mm so it was pretty obvious why they leaked. I did this job with the engine still in the car but it's not a quick job. You have to remove the cam gers etc before you can remove the chain cases. The seal between the cases and the engine block also often leaks so replace them at the same time.

Thomas

TYPE911

Definitely powder coat the tin, replace clamps & motor mounts. Whatever you do, DO NOT paint the fan red, keep it as Porsche intended.

BigMikeATL

I have many of your threads saved as I've been doing quite a bit of searching on this. Thanks!

I was talking about the pusher/puller tool. I'll use an impact to remove the bolt.

Awesome, will be sure to get those.

Will do!

Tim, excellent thread. It will help tremendously, thanks!

Great thread and I got it from a link in your post. It is what got me motivated to get started, thanks.

I was wondering about those seals and haven't seen any threads on replacement with the engine in the car. Wondering how difficult it would be to get the gears/chains off with the engine in the car.

Yep, completely forgot about powder coating the tins. They needed it when I had them out for the valve adjustment.

But the red fan looks so good. I think the factory just went cheap here.
photo courtesy of Frank

BigMikeATL

Question about removing the engine carrier.

I've read in some threads about lowering the engine. Once the engine carrier is removed, how far can the engine be safely lowered?

Thanks!