Drip, Drip - Go Away / BigMike's reseal thread
#16
Nordschleife Master
Maybe a couple or a few inches. The goal should be for it to not lower much at all. Put a jack stand under it so that it comes down onto the stand as you undo the motor mount nuts.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Got it, thanks!
I spent some time in the garage this beautiful GA afternoon (sunny and 67*) getting it cleaned up and the work area ready. I just informed my wife that she will have to park in the driveway for a few weeks.
I will probably get the rear bumper and exhaust removed this week after work.
Work area:
I spent some time in the garage this beautiful GA afternoon (sunny and 67*) getting it cleaned up and the work area ready. I just informed my wife that she will have to park in the driveway for a few weeks.
I will probably get the rear bumper and exhaust removed this week after work.
Work area:
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Parts ordered today from Pelican and the dealer. I lucked out and the dealer is giving 15% off this month. So far the damage is $608/
I'll start taking things apart tomorrow after work. I removed the wing covering the thermostat tonight to get the part number on it so I could order the hoses.
I'll start taking things apart tomorrow after work. I removed the wing covering the thermostat tonight to get the part number on it so I could order the hoses.
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I went ahead and ordered a new valve cover gasket kit because I wasn't able to get the complete Pelican kit with new washers when I adjusted the valves. I was going to just order new washers but since I don't want to have to go back into the valve covers for a while, I decided to just get the OEM kit. Pelican still didn't have it in stock but I found an OEM kit at another online dealer that includes all hardware w/washers. Basically it's $50 piece of mind.
I forgot to order a Power Steering Belt and I'm sure I'll see more stuff that I need to order when I get it a part. Overall, this should be a good start.
I'm posting prices as I go because I believe that it helps others get an idea of what they're in for if they decide to do the work and it has the part numbers.
I forgot to order a Power Steering Belt and I'm sure I'll see more stuff that I need to order when I get it a part. Overall, this should be a good start.
I'm posting prices as I go because I believe that it helps others get an idea of what they're in for if they decide to do the work and it has the part numbers.
#20
IHI KING!
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
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Did you already purchase the plastic clips and sockets for the rocker panel? When I have replaced the hoses between the oil tank and the thermostat, I needed to remove the rocker panel and many of the clips break on disassembly.
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was just searching online for the BMW hose clamps and found them for $1.11 each at http://germanautoparts.com but the shipping was $9 for 10 of them. For grins, I looked up the valve cover gasket kit and it's $20 cheaper there for the same OEM kit. DOH!
#22
Race Car
from the cup mech @ PMotorSport... these are the best clamps ... German
wurth zebra clamp with curled edges
Zebra Hose Clamps
WURTH Zebra Hose Clamps feature an “outrigger” support that prevents tilting when tightening.
Their smooth band is embossed and includes raised edges to prevent hose damage.
wurth zebra clamp with curled edges
Zebra Hose Clamps
WURTH Zebra Hose Clamps feature an “outrigger” support that prevents tilting when tightening.
Their smooth band is embossed and includes raised edges to prevent hose damage.
#23
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
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You can buy similar at McMaster-Carr in quantity:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=lullu7
Choose "Stainless Steel Smooth-band Worm Drive Hose and Tube Clamps" and get the all-stainless ones in 304.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=lullu7
Choose "Stainless Steel Smooth-band Worm Drive Hose and Tube Clamps" and get the all-stainless ones in 304.
#26
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#27
Formerly turbotwoshoes
Rennlist Member
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The age of our cars....
Most people when they look for those irritating little leaks and can't find the source often overlook the oil vent hose housing AND the oil pressure and temperature housing and associated aluminum sealing rings. I replaced all the intake runner rubber sleeves, while I was at it and my car idles ever so smoothly. The main culprit that is most often ignored is the large o-ring for the housing for the oil temperature and oil pressure connections. I have pictures on a previous thread showing how brittle mine was. If it is seeping/weeping, it will eventually run down between the cylinders on the right side, and the upper engine tin on the right side will always have an oily film. Takes just a few hours if you just remove half the manifold. I did wires and everything and all rubbers and took me the better part of two Saturdays, goofing around (setting valves, etc.) However the top of my engine is dry. I need new lower valve covers. Mine are corroded, but saving for billet covers.
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Most people when they look for those irritating little leaks and can't find the source often overlook the oil vent hose housing AND the oil pressure and temperature housing and associated aluminum sealing rings. I replaced all the intake runner rubber sleeves, while I was at it and my car idles ever so smoothly. The main culprit that is most often ignored is the large o-ring for the housing for the oil temperature and oil pressure connections. I have pictures on a previous thread showing how brittle mine was. If it is seeping/weeping, it will eventually run down between the cylinders on the right side, and the upper engine tin on the right side will always have an oily film. Takes just a few hours if you just remove half the manifold. I did wires and everything and all rubbers and took me the better part of two Saturdays, goofing around (setting valves, etc.) However the top of my engine is dry. I need new lower valve covers. Mine are corroded, but saving for billet covers.
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm not getting as much done today as I want to but I'm making progress.
Did a compression test on all cylinders.
1. 205
2. 195
3. 205
4. 190
5. 205
6. 205
1
2
3
4
5
6
Did a compression test on all cylinders.
1. 205
2. 195
3. 205
4. 190
5. 205
6. 205
1
2
3
4
5
6
#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
There is more oil on the top of the engine than I'm comfortable with, so my plan is to remove the entire intake. I have to remove half of it anyway in order to replace the oil pressure manifold o-ring. Getting ready to search the procedure and price new intake boots as well.