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Drip, Drip - Go Away / BigMike's reseal thread

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Old 03-10-2013, 05:24 PM
  #16  
Vandit
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Maybe a couple or a few inches. The goal should be for it to not lower much at all. Put a jack stand under it so that it comes down onto the stand as you undo the motor mount nuts.
Old 03-10-2013, 06:00 PM
  #17  
BigMikeATL
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Got it, thanks!

I spent some time in the garage this beautiful GA afternoon (sunny and 67*) getting it cleaned up and the work area ready. I just informed my wife that she will have to park in the driveway for a few weeks.

I will probably get the rear bumper and exhaust removed this week after work.

Work area:

Old 03-11-2013, 10:09 PM
  #18  
BigMikeATL
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Parts ordered today from Pelican and the dealer. I lucked out and the dealer is giving 15% off this month. So far the damage is $608/

I'll start taking things apart tomorrow after work. I removed the wing covering the thermostat tonight to get the part number on it so I could order the hoses.
Old 03-12-2013, 01:33 PM
  #19  
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I went ahead and ordered a new valve cover gasket kit because I wasn't able to get the complete Pelican kit with new washers when I adjusted the valves. I was going to just order new washers but since I don't want to have to go back into the valve covers for a while, I decided to just get the OEM kit. Pelican still didn't have it in stock but I found an OEM kit at another online dealer that includes all hardware w/washers. Basically it's $50 piece of mind.

I forgot to order a Power Steering Belt and I'm sure I'll see more stuff that I need to order when I get it a part. Overall, this should be a good start.

I'm posting prices as I go because I believe that it helps others get an idea of what they're in for if they decide to do the work and it has the part numbers.

Old 03-12-2013, 02:18 PM
  #20  
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Did you already purchase the plastic clips and sockets for the rocker panel? When I have replaced the hoses between the oil tank and the thermostat, I needed to remove the rocker panel and many of the clips break on disassembly.
Old 03-12-2013, 02:46 PM
  #21  
BigMikeATL
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
Did you already purchase the plastic clips and sockets for the rocker panel? When I have replaced the hoses between the oil tank and the thermostat, I needed to remove the rocker panel and many of the clips break on disassembly.
I had the rocker panel off not too long ago and put new clips on it. Hopefully they won't break coming back off. I think I have a few extra in my toolbox though.

I was just searching online for the BMW hose clamps and found them for $1.11 each at http://germanautoparts.com but the shipping was $9 for 10 of them. For grins, I looked up the valve cover gasket kit and it's $20 cheaper there for the same OEM kit. DOH!
Old 03-12-2013, 04:31 PM
  #22  
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from the cup mech @ PMotorSport... these are the best clamps ... German
wurth zebra clamp with curled edges

Zebra Hose Clamps
WURTH Zebra Hose Clamps feature an “outrigger” support that prevents tilting when tightening.
Their smooth band is embossed and includes raised edges to prevent hose damage.
Old 03-12-2013, 05:04 PM
  #23  
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You can buy similar at McMaster-Carr in quantity:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=lullu7

Choose "Stainless Steel Smooth-band Worm Drive Hose and Tube Clamps" and get the all-stainless ones in 304.
Old 03-13-2013, 08:05 PM
  #24  
BigMikeATL
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I spent about 1.5 hours in the garage after work. Bumper, tail lights, and exhaust removed.









Old 03-14-2013, 04:29 PM
  #25  
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I did almost all of this a couple of winters ago. Still leaks. Hope you have better luck. My next shot is the oil return tubes.
Old 03-14-2013, 06:00 PM
  #26  
BigMikeATL
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Originally Posted by alfred_hybrid
I did almost all of this a couple of winters ago. Still leaks. Hope you have better luck. My next shot is the oil return tubes.
If it leaks after all of this, it will just have to leak. The leaks are so small now I have high hopes to get it sealed.
Old 03-14-2013, 06:38 PM
  #27  
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Default The age of our cars....

Most people when they look for those irritating little leaks and can't find the source often overlook the oil vent hose housing AND the oil pressure and temperature housing and associated aluminum sealing rings. I replaced all the intake runner rubber sleeves, while I was at it and my car idles ever so smoothly. The main culprit that is most often ignored is the large o-ring for the housing for the oil temperature and oil pressure connections. I have pictures on a previous thread showing how brittle mine was. If it is seeping/weeping, it will eventually run down between the cylinders on the right side, and the upper engine tin on the right side will always have an oily film. Takes just a few hours if you just remove half the manifold. I did wires and everything and all rubbers and took me the better part of two Saturdays, goofing around (setting valves, etc.) However the top of my engine is dry. I need new lower valve covers. Mine are corroded, but saving for billet covers.
Old 03-16-2013, 02:44 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by turbotwoshoes
Most people when they look for those irritating little leaks and can't find the source often overlook the oil vent hose housing AND the oil pressure and temperature housing and associated aluminum sealing rings. I replaced all the intake runner rubber sleeves, while I was at it and my car idles ever so smoothly. The main culprit that is most often ignored is the large o-ring for the housing for the oil temperature and oil pressure connections. I have pictures on a previous thread showing how brittle mine was. If it is seeping/weeping, it will eventually run down between the cylinders on the right side, and the upper engine tin on the right side will always have an oily film. Takes just a few hours if you just remove half the manifold. I did wires and everything and all rubbers and took me the better part of two Saturdays, goofing around (setting valves, etc.) However the top of my engine is dry. I need new lower valve covers. Mine are corroded, but saving for billet covers.
Yep, I'm replacing all of those gasket, orings, and washers. I should be out there working on it now but had too many things going on today.
Old 03-17-2013, 01:53 PM
  #29  
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I'm not getting as much done today as I want to but I'm making progress.

Did a compression test on all cylinders.
1. 205
2. 195
3. 205
4. 190
5. 205
6. 205

1


2


3


4


5


6
Old 03-17-2013, 01:58 PM
  #30  
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There is more oil on the top of the engine than I'm comfortable with, so my plan is to remove the entire intake. I have to remove half of it anyway in order to replace the oil pressure manifold o-ring. Getting ready to search the procedure and price new intake boots as well.













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