Drip, Drip - Go Away / BigMike's reseal thread
#62
A couple notes about the power steering though.
- there are four nuts that hold the pump on. the only way to get the two bottom ones of is to remove the bottom pulley and belt. use a 1/4" rachet with a deep 13mm socket from the top to get them on/off.
- the pulley pries off really easy. it's only held on about 1/4" once you get the bolt off
- you cannot get the ps pump mount off without taking the top valve cover off.
- great time to replace the oil hose under there.
When I had everything taken apart under there, I saw the starter. Holy Moly, could they have buried it any deeper in the car. Still not sure how it would come off.
I think I have an axle seal leaking on the left side. I was planning on replacing them both anyway later in the Spring.
Nothing has been too difficult, just have to have patience.
#63
I updated the project spreadsheet. Looks like I'm going to come in around the budget I had for the project.
After this project is completed, the next item is the A/C leak which is most likely the evaporator.
After this project is completed, the next item is the A/C leak which is most likely the evaporator.
Last edited by BigMikeATL; 04-05-2013 at 11:09 AM.
#66
If they need to be replaced, I'm going with the Wevo Blues.
#67
Here's an example of a bad mount
Here are new ones (notice how the rubber is fully inside the metal can)
Here's a few threads discussing them
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...cabriolet.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ne-mounts.html
Here are new ones (notice how the rubber is fully inside the metal can)
Here's a few threads discussing them
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...cabriolet.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ne-mounts.html
#68
Formerly turbotwoshoes
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 850
Likes: 31
From: Russellville, Arkansas
engine mounts?
The engine and bracket actually hang from the mounts. When you jack the car up, it will move in sync. Old ones are fluid filled and once they "rupture" and lose their fluid, it will allow the engine to hang a bit lower and there will be more play and you might or might not notice some "notchiness" in the shifting. Look at new ones, the "RS" recommended ones are only slightly stiffer, excepting Wevos, which can be had in two different hardnesses with blue or black inserts. I have Wevos (blue) and my old mounts looked like yours but had oil residue . Did you clean..power wash yours? The rubber shoulder that you see protruding is what to most of us is the first indication they are shot. New ones will have that shoulder nearly flush with the casing. When I changed my motor mounts my transmission shifted much more smoothly, especially under load and again at lower speeds. Just food for thought.
#69
Great Job Mike
You may want to check the small oil hose you have for the bottom of the tank to the thermostat. My 1991 C2 uses the S shaped hose, 964-207-241-06. I ordered the hoses from your list. Your list has the 964-207-241-04, which is a 45 degree angle hose.
Changing the 3 oil lines (filter to thermostat, and both thermostat to oil cooler) was not that bad a job. The tricky one is getting the oil tank back in place. When you get the new oil line, to filter, in place just muscle the tank into position. The small line from the tank to the body tube on the side is fairly easy to work into place. I actually expected the side oil line to be the problem, but the new hose is very flexible, and goes in easy.
I'm now working on my cam box oil leak, driver side. (I started a new thread on that one)
Big Mike, you and BabaLouie make these projects a lot easier with the photo journal. Thanks.
You may want to check the small oil hose you have for the bottom of the tank to the thermostat. My 1991 C2 uses the S shaped hose, 964-207-241-06. I ordered the hoses from your list. Your list has the 964-207-241-04, which is a 45 degree angle hose.
Changing the 3 oil lines (filter to thermostat, and both thermostat to oil cooler) was not that bad a job. The tricky one is getting the oil tank back in place. When you get the new oil line, to filter, in place just muscle the tank into position. The small line from the tank to the body tube on the side is fairly easy to work into place. I actually expected the side oil line to be the problem, but the new hose is very flexible, and goes in easy.
I'm now working on my cam box oil leak, driver side. (I started a new thread on that one)
Big Mike, you and BabaLouie make these projects a lot easier with the photo journal. Thanks.
#70
Here's an example of a bad mount
Here are new ones (notice how the rubber is fully inside the metal can)
Here's a few threads discussing them
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...cabriolet.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ne-mounts.html
Here are new ones (notice how the rubber is fully inside the metal can)
Here's a few threads discussing them
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...cabriolet.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ne-mounts.html
The engine and bracket actually hang from the mounts. When you jack the car up, it will move in sync. Old ones are fluid filled and once they "rupture" and lose their fluid, it will allow the engine to hang a bit lower and there will be more play and you might or might not notice some "notchiness" in the shifting. Look at new ones, the "RS" recommended ones are only slightly stiffer, excepting Wevos, which can be had in two different hardnesses with blue or black inserts. I have Wevos (blue) and my old mounts looked like yours but had oil residue . Did you clean..power wash yours? The rubber shoulder that you see protruding is what to most of us is the first indication they are shot. New ones will have that shoulder nearly flush with the casing. When I changed my motor mounts my transmission shifted much more smoothly, especially under load and again at lower speeds. Just food for thought.
Okay, got it. Looks like I'll be ordering the Wevos today. Thanks!
#71
I ordered the RS mounts yesterday from Pelican. $370 plus bolts and washers. Was part of another $700 order on top of the $1000 last week for rebuilt oil lines at $300 plus another $700 of other seals, sensors, hoses, belts.. And I need two rear tires, for a nice $2,000 in a month.
It adds up quickly. And I have largely ignored the 88' 952 car this month. Another needy car.
Will the 993 motor mounts work on the 964? They are $90 each versus the $300 for 964 parts.
It adds up quickly. And I have largely ignored the 88' 952 car this month. Another needy car.
Will the 993 motor mounts work on the 964? They are $90 each versus the $300 for 964 parts.
#72
I ordered the RS mounts yesterday from Pelican. $370 plus bolts and washers. Was part of another $700 order on top of the $1000 last week for rebuilt oil lines at $300 plus another $700 of other seals, sensors, hoses, belts.. And I need two rear tires, for a nice $2,000 in a month.
It adds up quickly. And I have largely ignored the 88' 952 car this month. Another needy car.
Will the 993 motor mounts work on the 964? They are $90 each versus the $300 for 964 parts.
It adds up quickly. And I have largely ignored the 88' 952 car this month. Another needy car.
Will the 993 motor mounts work on the 964? They are $90 each versus the $300 for 964 parts.
#74
Looking good Mike. Sorry if I missed mention of it earlier, but the braided oil hose should have a heat-protection wrap around it. It's often gone missing. I used an aftermarket wrap from McMaster-Carr.
#75
Back from the beach and off on Spring Break this week, so it is time to make a serious dent in the 964 project.
Oil Lines
Chain Cases
Firewall Cover
Top End (intake, etc.)
Valve Covers
I'm going to pull the valve covers last today and take them, along with the tins to my friend's house to glass-bead them. I need to call the powder-coat shop to see how long for turn-around on the pieces.
http://www.millerpowdercoating.com/
Oil Lines
Chain Cases
Firewall Cover
Top End (intake, etc.)
Valve Covers
I'm going to pull the valve covers last today and take them, along with the tins to my friend's house to glass-bead them. I need to call the powder-coat shop to see how long for turn-around on the pieces.
http://www.millerpowdercoating.com/