C4 maintenance and TPC supercharger upgrade!
04-13-2012, 12:13 AM
#121
Race Car
Wow.... That is seriously sneeky....
I had a feeling you had something in mind... There was way too much knowledge demonstrated by you in the other Super Charging threads...
Cannot wait to see the results.
I had a feeling you had something in mind... There was way too much knowledge demonstrated by you in the other Super Charging threads...
Cannot wait to see the results.
04-13-2012, 04:40 AM
#124
Burning Brakes
One man's loss is our gain....seriously good work there Marc, and great writeup....I'll be interested to see what rwhp you get from the supercharger kit......
I take it you would recommend the TPC kit, quality, support and 'cost per bang' basis!?
I take it you would recommend the TPC kit, quality, support and 'cost per bang' basis!?
04-13-2012, 11:09 AM
#125
Rennlist Member
That is awesome Marc!
A lighted, track-spec, C4...now with a supercharger....WOW, this takes things to a whole new level!
Your beast is going to ROCKET out of turns.
Long live the 964!
where's Ilko???
(also thanks for the interior shots above, helpful for some carpet work I need to do on my car...)
A lighted, track-spec, C4...now with a supercharger....WOW, this takes things to a whole new level!
Your beast is going to ROCKET out of turns.
Long live the 964!
where's Ilko???
(also thanks for the interior shots above, helpful for some carpet work I need to do on my car...)
04-14-2012, 12:31 AM
#126
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Thanks everyone - I am pretty excited about this project. 
I pulled the alternator and sent the housing out for powder coating (boring flat black). The rear plastic cap on the back of the housing was cracked so I ordered a new one.
Inspecting the fan, I saw some splitting of the blades so I ordered a new one of the$e too. I also got a new alternator from NAPA. I swapped in a new voltage regulator and changed the fan bearing too. The rear little plastic fan thing on the back was fine so I cleaned it up and bolted it on using Loctite Blue.
I debated about powder coating the fan blade too, but after seeing the care that Porsche put into making sure it was properly balanced with small holes drilled in the back, I decided against.
Then I installed the TPC pulley. I read in another sc thread someone else experienced slippage as the pulley is just compression fit to the fan by the 24 mm nut. So instead I drilled three holes through the pulley and put in longer 12.9 cap head screws into the threaded holes in the fan bearing (used to secure the stock shims) so the fan and pulley are locked together. I figured just putting in one bolt might unbalance the assembly. I also torqued the front 24 mm nut to 10 ft-lbs and used Loctite Blue again.
Now I am just waiting to get the housing back from the powder coaters so I can re-install it all.
Marc
Sorry about the crappy photos - I can post more if you need.
I pulled the alternator and sent the housing out for powder coating (boring flat black). The rear plastic cap on the back of the housing was cracked so I ordered a new one.
Inspecting the fan, I saw some splitting of the blades so I ordered a new one of the$e too. I also got a new alternator from NAPA. I swapped in a new voltage regulator and changed the fan bearing too. The rear little plastic fan thing on the back was fine so I cleaned it up and bolted it on using Loctite Blue.
I debated about powder coating the fan blade too, but after seeing the care that Porsche put into making sure it was properly balanced with small holes drilled in the back, I decided against.
Then I installed the TPC pulley. I read in another sc thread someone else experienced slippage as the pulley is just compression fit to the fan by the 24 mm nut. So instead I drilled three holes through the pulley and put in longer 12.9 cap head screws into the threaded holes in the fan bearing (used to secure the stock shims) so the fan and pulley are locked together. I figured just putting in one bolt might unbalance the assembly. I also torqued the front 24 mm nut to 10 ft-lbs and used Loctite Blue again.
Now I am just waiting to get the housing back from the powder coaters so I can re-install it all.
Marc
Sorry about the crappy photos - I can post more if you need.
04-14-2012, 12:49 PM
#128
Instructor
nice thread, pics, work and the supercharger is the cherry on top... I'm planning something similar 'after the settling in the new house' is done... mine is a tip and i intend to keep it.. working on the plan just as yet, found solutions for the tip and so on..
good luck with the install... so please keep the details coming..
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good luck with the install... so please keep the details coming..
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04-14-2012, 10:11 PM
#129
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Okay so I managed to get the DAS roll bar back in and wired up the GoPro Hero 2 HD camera.
I also finished the wiring for the TraqMate and GoPro under the passenger seat.
I installed my CHT gauge (still has the plastic on the screen to protect against scratches) and the DashDaq for the Zeitronix engine monitor attaches to the other centre console bracket. That other mess of wires at the passenger's feet are all to go the the Zeitronix while the orange/black plug that is flopped in front of the accelerator pedal is for my CoolShirt (tank mounts on the passenger floorboard).
Marc
I also finished the wiring for the TraqMate and GoPro under the passenger seat.
I installed my CHT gauge (still has the plastic on the screen to protect against scratches) and the DashDaq for the Zeitronix engine monitor attaches to the other centre console bracket. That other mess of wires at the passenger's feet are all to go the the Zeitronix while the orange/black plug that is flopped in front of the accelerator pedal is for my CoolShirt (tank mounts on the passenger floorboard).
Marc
04-15-2012, 12:33 AM
#131
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No, I can keep the stock spoiler but plan to put a Getty GT1 spoiler on to feed more cold air to the intake.
Marc
04-15-2012, 11:43 PM
#132
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I got my alternator housing back from the powder coater's. It sure is purdy.
I also managed to get the alternator back in the car. Little tip - the alternator is a compression fit in the housing and the 4 bolts on the back draw the alternator in and secure it. Put a couple of nuts on the alternator and tighten them up evenly to pull the alternator in the housing straight before installing the alternator in the car.
Instead I did not do this and put the alternator in and tightened the nuts up securing the rear plastic cap but I did not tighten them evenly so the alternator went in slightly crooked and then contacted the fan housing. I had to pull it all out, straighten the fan in the housing and re-install.
Marc
I also managed to get the alternator back in the car. Little tip - the alternator is a compression fit in the housing and the 4 bolts on the back draw the alternator in and secure it. Put a couple of nuts on the alternator and tighten them up evenly to pull the alternator in the housing straight before installing the alternator in the car.
Instead I did not do this and put the alternator in and tightened the nuts up securing the rear plastic cap but I did not tighten them evenly so the alternator went in slightly crooked and then contacted the fan housing. I had to pull it all out, straighten the fan in the housing and re-install.
Marc
04-17-2012, 12:44 AM
#133
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Well, I got my crank pulley off.
To get there the rear bumper, heat shield, and bumper bar had to come off. Then the rear engine tin and engine carrier were removed.
Once at the crank, I debated about using an impact wrench ("rattle gun") but read lots of threads about twisting the crank and damaged #8 bearings from lateral load -- yeah, I am not sure what it means either but it sounds bad. In addition, I read that if the crank is turned ccw then the timing chains can slip. Finally, it seems the pin on the back of the crank pulley can be broken and, since Pelican lists a new harmonic balancer/pulley (only sold as a package) at $1400 ....
I broke down and ordered the proper crank wrench and puller from Vertex. Holy cr*p it is a big hunk of steel but, with this bad boy, I got the crank off in 5 minutes with minimal effort.
(wrench next to a standard 1/2 socket wrench)
(pulley puller)
Once it was off, I took the harmonic balancer/pulley apart and got ready to assemble the new TPC pulley using the centre hub (the rest is not used). Sadly, M6 x 10 flare cap head 12.9 bolts aren't sold at Home Depot so I ordered some from the local Fastenal dealer. In addition, I have a new crank bolt (M14 x 40, 12.9) on order.
(here is that little pin that can break off)
As soon as the bolts come in, I can get the new pulley assembled and the back end reassembled.
Marc
To get there the rear bumper, heat shield, and bumper bar had to come off. Then the rear engine tin and engine carrier were removed.
Once at the crank, I debated about using an impact wrench ("rattle gun") but read lots of threads about twisting the crank and damaged #8 bearings from lateral load -- yeah, I am not sure what it means either but it sounds bad. In addition, I read that if the crank is turned ccw then the timing chains can slip. Finally, it seems the pin on the back of the crank pulley can be broken and, since Pelican lists a new harmonic balancer/pulley (only sold as a package) at $1400 ....
I broke down and ordered the proper crank wrench and puller from Vertex. Holy cr*p it is a big hunk of steel but, with this bad boy, I got the crank off in 5 minutes with minimal effort.
(wrench next to a standard 1/2 socket wrench)
(pulley puller)
Once it was off, I took the harmonic balancer/pulley apart and got ready to assemble the new TPC pulley using the centre hub (the rest is not used). Sadly, M6 x 10 flare cap head 12.9 bolts aren't sold at Home Depot so I ordered some from the local Fastenal dealer. In addition, I have a new crank bolt (M14 x 40, 12.9) on order.
(here is that little pin that can break off)
As soon as the bolts come in, I can get the new pulley assembled and the back end reassembled.
Marc
04-18-2012, 12:56 AM
#134
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Another update.....
Well, while I had my a/c bracket off waiting for bolts to re-assembled, I decided to chop a little off the top since my a/c compressor is gone and not going back on.
The chop saw made short work of the aluminum but I trimmed it so the upper right bolt would still be functional - not as pretty as cutting off lower than this with a flat top but I figured the extra bolt holding the front of the engine was there for a reason.
....and yes, it was good for 2 lbs.
In addition, a few minutes with the bench grinder I trimmed the tabs around where the pulley sits so the a/c bracket can be removed in the future without removing the crank pulley. Who knows - might come in handy.
Marc
The chop saw made short work of the aluminum but I trimmed it so the upper right bolt would still be functional - not as pretty as cutting off lower than this with a flat top but I figured the extra bolt holding the front of the engine was there for a reason.
....and yes, it was good for 2 lbs.
In addition, a few minutes with the bench grinder I trimmed the tabs around where the pulley sits so the a/c bracket can be removed in the future without removing the crank pulley. Who knows - might come in handy.
Marc