trophy

Of course you're not

Are you setting your self up to give me a hard time at Miller in June?

Marc Shaw

Oh yeah - I gotta do something as I sure can't beat you with my skill set.

Marc

Marc Shaw

Okay, I have not posted in this thread in a while but that does not mean I have not been making progress....

First, I rebuilt my oil thermostat:

Before


During










After






All the innards were changed out too.


Parts used:

999.041.036.00 circlip
999.701.393.40 o-ring
964.207.351.01 plug cover
964.207.355.00 oil pressure spring
900.063.007.02 screw plug
964.207.349.02 thermostat insert

Marc Shaw

I also re-installed the oil lines that run to and from the oil cooler (which is not installed yet) as well as replaced one of the smaller oil lines in the right rear wheel well by the oil tank. Not visible is the small oil line that I also replaced that ran from the oil tank to the thermostat.






The short upper oil line in the above photo was replaced last winter by my mechanic at the time of the engine rebuild.

The other oil line that runs from the tank to the drain plug is in need of replacement too and is currently on order.


Part numbers
964.207.135.03 long oil line to oil cooler
964.207.133.03 long oil line from oil cooler
964.207.241.04 short oil line from tank to thermostat
964.207.217.00 short oil line in wheel well to tank
964.207.251.02 short oil line from tank to drain plug (waiting on this to arrive)

Marc Shaw

I got the bungs installed in my headers for the extra oxygen sensors (for the Zeitronix) as well as the EGT sensor and the headers re-installed.









I chose the runner of the middle cylinder on each bank (numbers 2 and 5) for the EGT sensors as I figured they'd be hottest as they are sandwiched in the middle. I did not want to put it on the collector as the additive pulses from each of the cylinders would read an inaccurate average (thanks Trophy).


No part numbers as bungs and oxygen sensors/EGT sensors are from Zeitronix.

Marc

Marc Shaw

I got the passenger floorboard cleaned and powder coated too.



I picked silver as I did not want to stray too far from stock in case it adversely affects future resale value ( ). j/k

Marc
p.s. It is wet as I washed it when I got it back from the powder coaters.

Marc Shaw

I got my new PDAS lines installed too (from lateral and longitudinal locks).



Custom made by Pegasus.

Marc

Marc Shaw

Finally, I also replaced the passenger and driver's door weather stripping. No photos but very easy - just pull the old out and push the new in - no glue needed according to prior posts here.

Part numbers
911.542.404.03 x 2 (same number for both sides)


The windshield wipers were replaced (with new Bosch ones) and the H4 headlight rubbers were also replaced with new.

Finally I re-installed the rear anti-sway bar with new bushings from TRG, lubed the front anti-sway bar bushings, and got my repaired gauges back from NHS.

Marc

RicardoD

Note to self: you can rebuilt the thermostat yourself!

Great series of post Marc. I just got my C2 Smogged & registered today so I'm free now to put it the lift and get to work.

Marc Shaw

Replaced my oxygen sensor.

Not too hard - unscrew, unplug, unthread then install new by doing the same in reverse.

Here is old versus new. I don't know if it was needed (replaced last year with engine rebuild) but eh - can't hurt.




Part used: 965.606.126.01

Marc

Marc Shaw

I also got most of the Ruf cooler installed (thanks Steve W.) but I am not done yet as I'm waiting on parts.








Marc

p.s. I also managed to strip the threads trying to reattach my left headlight so I bonded a nut on the back of the tab so I can reattach the light once the bonding agent cures.

Marc Shaw

I got my fuel filter changed today. While I was in there I also changed the fuel filter bracket as it was all rusty.

It was pretty easy but a bit smelly.

I HAD A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY AND UNHOOKED THE BATTERY.




Just put a rag underneath the fuel filter to catch the inevitable fuel that will leak out. Then undo the top and bottom hose attachments using a 17 mm and a 19 mm wrench (top/front) or two 19 mm wrenches (back/bottom). About a cup of fluid leaked out the bottom so I used an old plastic pot to catch it all as it overwhelmed the rag.

Loosen the band clamp holding the fuel filter (7 mm socket) and then remove the filter.




I then removed the filter bracket on the sidewall of the engine bay (using a 10 mm socket) after a little Liquid Wrench. Then it is a simple matter to install the new bracket with new two new 6M nuts and ss washers with some anti-seize paste.




Then just slip the new filter into the band clamp, tighten and attached both fuel lines and tighten (be sure to support the fuel filter while tightening so the other line does not twist).




Parts:
fuel filter: 928.110.253.04
band clamp: 999.512.390.00
filter bracket: 964.356.511.00
filter bracket rubbers: 964.356.635.00 x 2
filter bracket spacers: 928.355.633.00 x 2

Marc

sml

nice ... i failed on my fuel filter replacement ... due to extended position of my arms, i couldnt find enough strength to crack open the joint .. had to take to mechanic

DWS964

It really helps to have flare nut wrenches for the fittings on the fuel filter. Helps with some better grip in case a bit extra torque needs to be applied to break the fittings loose. Should check the torque specs on the fittings - I bet they do not require gorilla torque to ensure a leak-free seal.

Marc Shaw

Good idea - my filter was only 2 years old so not welded on. That might be an issue for an older filter.

I looked but could not find a torque spec - I just did'em "tight, but not too tight."

Marc