Marc Shaw

Well, the snow is not falling yet but I have started on my winter projects in ernest. One reason is that I did not have my car to work on last year (waiting on parts for the engine rebuild for most of the winter) so I have a long list of stuff to do as I did not get to any jobs last year. I also plan to travel to tracks in the US more with a great company (Arrive & Drive - no affil.) and the schedule for those trips usually starts in February or March and I hope to be ready!

Anyway, I lots of projects planned and I thought I'd try to document some of what I am doing -- hopefully there is some interest in my doing this.



Okay - so below is the list of what I plan to do and my progress so far. I hope to try to keep up to date as I do. I already did some research here too and embedded threads that will help me in the ToDo list.

Marc

Marc Shaw

Supercharger
install waterpump - done
install intercooler - done
install throttle/ISV/intake - done
install catch-can/breather - done
install supercharger - done
assemble supercharger - done
polish intakes - done
wire injectors - done
wire various sensors - done
drill & paint FRP cover - done
modify throttle cable - done
install injectors/intake - done
install vacuum & boost sensors - done

Engine
change oil & filter (Castrol GTX) - done
install engine break-in additive (Redline) - done
replace oil cooler & fan - done
install Ruf secondary oil cooler - done
install CHT sensors - done
replace Wevo engine mounts - done
install air temp sensor - done
assemble CHT plugs - done
replace fuel line from FPR - done
replace alternator - done
powdercoat alternator housing - done
replace vacuum lines - done
replace intake band clamps - done
replace fuel vacuum valve - done
replace oil pressure sender - done
replace cylinder 5 intake stack - done
replace fuel pressure regulator - done
replace intake stack rubber couplers - done
replace oil lines & oil return lines - done
replace fuel filter - done
replace fuel filter bracket - done
replace alternator fan - done
replace fan bearing - done
clean ISV - done
install second vent kit - done
replace oxygen sensor - done
rebuild thermostat - done
replace oil cooler ceramic resistor - done
wire oil cooler fan over-ride switch - done
install oil cooler fan resistor - done - Thanks Laker!
replace voltage regulator - done
install abrasion protection on oil return line - done
install heat wrap on oil return line - done

Exhaust
replace V-clamps - done
lube muffler tip clamps - done
install AFR & EGT bungs - done
install AFR & EGT sensors - done

Transmission
bleed clutch slave cylinder (SRF) - done
replace front differential mount - done
replace front differential fluid (Redline 75W90NS) - done
replace transmission fluid (Redline 75W90NS) - done
replace shifter bushings - done
replace shifter ball-cup joints - done
replace clutch roll pin and bushings - done
replace clutch master cylinder - done
replace master cylinder soft line - done
replace transmission mount - done

Suspension
torque rear half-shaft nuts (339 ft-lbs) - done
lube front anti-sway bar bushings (25 mm) - done
replace rear anti-sway bar bushings (22 mm) - done
install new 21 mm rear spacers - done
install 993 steering rack brace - done
install longer (71 mm) rear studs - done
Glass bead rear hubs - done
Magnaflux rear hubs - done
replace rear wheel bearings - done
replace rear half-axles and CV joints - done
repack rear CV joints - done
install rear CV Stage 8 locking bolts - done
replace outer rear axle nuts - done

Brakes
bleed brake fluid (SRF) - done
bleed accumulator/distribution block (SRF) - done
bleed PDAS locks (SRF) - done
change PDAS lines - done
replace rear Pagid black brake pads - done
replace rear PowerSlot rotors - done
replace front brake pads - done
check front brake rotors (31.3 mm) - done

Body/Cosmetic
trim front bumper for radiator - done
sand & pc rear bumper - done
replace both shark fins - done
install CF hood - have
install CF GT1 wing (MAShaw) - on order
install CF brake ducts (MAShaw) - on order
install turbo rear deck hinges - on order
install front tow hook - done
replace front trunk weatherstrip - done
repair cracked wheel well cover - done
replace front bumper grill - done
powder-coat headlight washer plugs - done
rust proof rocker panels - done
re-paint front splitter - done
replace drivers door weatherstrip - done
replace passenger door weatherstrip - done
replace windshield wiper blades - done
replace H4 headlight rubbers - done
install Rennline front tow hook bracket - done
clean & powdercoat fuel pump cover - done
clean & powdercoat transmission cover - done
repair left rear bumper edge - done
get right rocker rust repaired - done

Interior
re-install passenger seat and harness - done
program Zeitronix - done
install CoolShirt hoses - done
install CoolShirt brackets - have
powdercoat DME cover - done
install Zeitronix/DashDaq - done
install CHT gauge - done
install GoPro2 HD module - done
install Perlon RS carpet - done
repair driver's seat fabric - done
repair gauges - done
clean & powder coat passenger floorboard - done
install Rothsport QR & hub - done
install TraqDash - done
install fan over-ride switch - done
install Rennline radio block-off - done
install CoolSuit switch - done
install PDAS reset switch - done
move wiper cut-off switch - done
remove sunroof motor etc. - done
install sub-bar reinforcement - done
remove rear deck and speakers - done
remove rear sound insulation - done
clean & powder coat driver floorboard - done
safety wire harness buckles - done
replace all seat bolts - done
replace door switch rubber covers - done


The car also weighs 2932 with 1/2 tank of gas.

Marc Shaw

First I started with the rear suspension - why? Well, I have done CV joints before and they are messy so I wanted to get it done.

My plan for the rear is wheel bearing replacement (preventative), replace all rear CV joints (preventative), and replace rear studs (change from 66mm to 71 mm so I have more thread exposed).

I opted to buy new rear half axles to get all 4 new CV joints at once. I also bought new Stage 8 locking CV bolts (as we all know how often CV bolts are loose ), and the axle nut is a single use item so I bought new ones of those too.

Of course, after I started taking things apart, I read that the CV grease from the factory is crap so I will have to repack all 4 CV joints anyway. In addition, I started to research hub failure (here and here) so I opted to get the hubs Magnaflux checked too.

Okay, enough chat, now to some action shots:



Up on the lift, wheel and caliper off. I hosed the big axle nut with Liquid Wrench and was done for the night....




I then tried to remove the darn nut - even with the parking brake on, I could not break it loose. So I slipped the caliper back on, attached a wheel, lowered the car on the lift enough to put weigh on the tire and managed to get the blasted nut off!




Yes, it is a tough nut to crack. The wheel is then removed (again) and the brake caliper comes off again (it was only put back on so the wheel could be put on).




The 3/4" socket set (with 32 mm socket) to remove the nut is huge compared to a standard 1/2" socket.




Next, the 6 bolts for the inner part of the CV joint are loosened.




The brake rotor is then removed and the hub is then pulled off the axle stub of the drive shaft with a 7 ton 2-arm gear puller (thanks Princess Auto!). I also bought the 5 ton puller but the arms were not quite long enough.




With the hub off, it looks like this. As you can see, pulling the hub off pulls part of the bearing off too (more below....).




The bolts holding the bearing retaining plates are then removed (4 red-topped bolts).




Next, the 6 loosened bolts of the inner part of the CV joint are removed and the half shaft is removed.




Here is the transmission with no half shaft attached.




This leaves us with just the bearing in place (view from the rear).

Marc Shaw

I then used the P90-P2 bearing tool from SirTools to push out the old bearing....and forgot the take pictures of this.





Oh well, here is what the carrier looks like with no bearing....




....and here is the old bearing.




I put the new bearings in the freezer overnight and used the P90 tool again to push the new bearings in. What I read said that the bearings are colour coded for inside and out (black and orange or red and orange) but mine were orange on both sides. The old bearings were SKF with the lettering facing inwards so I put the new *** bearings in the same way.




Lots of grease (and being cold) helped them slide right in.




Here is a view from the back as the new bearing is pushed in.




I then left them overnight with the P90 tool holding them in place so nothing shifted when it warmed up.




Voila! New bearings.




Another view of my handywork. I'm so proud.


Next, we have to get that bit of old bearing off the hub....

Marc Shaw

Okay, so we are left with a hub with the outer half of the inner wheel bearing race attached.

Well, we could take the easy way out and take it to the local machine shop with a press but I used the gear puller again.




First we load the hub into our handy vice with the bearing race facing up. Using a bit of scrap 1/4" steel to cover the hole where the axle stub used to be, we use the 7 ton, 2 arm puller again to pull the bearing race up as high as it will go.




Close up.
Sadly, it is soon pulled as high as it will go and is still stuck but we can't pull it up any higher as the plate is in the way and we need something to push against.




So we turn it upside down, catch the edge of the bearing race against the edge of the vice jaws (so we can pull against this) and use an old 3/8" socket and extension to allow the jaw puller to push against the vice.




Then we just need Vice-Grips to prevents the shaft from turning as we tighten the gear puller and get the bearing race the rest of the way off.




We are then left with the hubs - all cleaned and shined after a good de-greasing.




Underside.





I decided not to get the hubs shot-peened based on the advice I received here but I did get them glass bead-blasted and Magnafluxed looking for any cracks ($245 and no cracks).

I then dropped them off at a machine shop to have the new (71 mm) studs pressed in as I did not want to pull them in with my impact wrench and risk causing metal fatigue or cracks (and I thought it was asking too much of the gear puller to install the studs too ). You think you have a big shop press, there's is capable of 525 tons!

I'll post a few pictures of the hubs once I get them back and I will try to get the rear of the car back together.

Rocket Rob

Marc - Great photos and documentation. Keep it up. I have a big list for my winter projects but it pales in comparison to yours. I admire your energy.

Laker

oh yeah! keep it up.

shameless plug, yes- but perhaps and easier way to get the oil cooler resistor

RicardoD

Great write up Marc. What's the mileage on your car? Curious to know when you feel this service should be performed.

Dwane

While you're there you should upgrade your suspension...Sell me whatever you decide to change.

Marc Shaw

Thanks!


Oops - missed that one - very handy and added for later. Thanks.



Mileage is 118 000 km (73 000 miles) and I bought the car at 86 000 (53 000 miles) but initially it was 50% track and is now 95% track so things tend to wear out faster and break more often. I don't know what the recommended timing for things like bearings is but, as far as I can tell, only the front driver's bearing has ever been changed so I figured the rear was due.


Well, I have been considering KW ClubSports but I'll have to see what funds are left after I've done all this.



Marc

Marc Shaw

A little more progress today - I picked up the hubs from having the new studs pressed in and promptly popped them in the freezer to make them easier to re-install.






I'll try to get them re-installed tomorrow if work permits.

Marc

daniel94

Nice post Marc...more please

Marc Shaw

Ok - not much done today as work got in the way.

I did manage to get the wheel bearing retainers re-installed with lots of copper lube on the threads (the DIY on p-car does not list torque for these bolts but it is 15 ft-lbs) and I got one of the hubs re-installed.

The hub was in the freezer but it did not just slide in like I was hoping so I used the P90 bearing tool again to push the hub in and then left it overnight while it warmed up to ensure it did not shift. The instructions that come with this tool are very good so there should be no confusion about how to use it.




Wheel bearing retainer plate re-installed (after being cleaned in an Eastwood tumble parts cleaner) and bolts torqued to 15 ft-lb.




The hub looks all frosty from the condensation - it was freakin' cold in our deep freeze! Sadly, it did not help it slide in easily.




Here we are pushing the bearing in. No grease used here as there did not appear to be any when I took it apart.




We'll just let this little guy warm up overnight with the P90 tool holding it in place and do the other one tomorrow so nothing shifts as it thaws.


Marc

Marc Shaw

So far, these part numbers have been used:

Rear bearings: 999.053.042.06 x 2
Rear 71 mm studs: 901.331.671.01 x 10

Special tools are really limited to a P90-P2 bearing tool so far. Oh, and a 7-ton 2-jaw gear puller. And beer.

Marc

Marc Shaw

All right, I got the second hub installed and I'm just letting it thaw while being held in place by the P90 bearing tool.

In the meantime, I also got my pedal cluster out, replaced the roll pin, cleaned everything all up, got the bushings all changed and re-greased. I also replaced the master cylinder and the soft line going to it as well.



Pedals coming out.




Pedal cluster out.




New greased bushings.




New bushings and a roll pin. I also removed the cruise control switch (to save weight ).






New master cylinder and soft (blue) line. Part is now a 993 number.




Here they are almost completely re-installed. I also stripped out as much sound insulation as I could from down there.


Part numbers used today were:

Hydraulic hose: 999.084.634.09
Hose clamps: 999.512.445.00
Pedal bushes: 964.425.611.00 & 999.924.014.40
Roll pin: N 023.351.1



Next up is to finish re-packing the CV joints and try to get the back end re-assembled.

Marc