Yup, just like the official Model T Ford manual, torque spec for the cylinder head bolts - "Tighten to the point that the bolts twist off; but stop just prior."
Since I have been using torque wrenches for as many situations as I can, I am convinced that frequently I have been overtightening fasteners.

 

Great post

 

Brill...posts

 

More progress.

Since I had some issues with rocker panel rust that I had to get fixed, I decided to put a little rust-proofer in the rocker panel space.

It turns out that the po had the same idea many years ago as Ziebart had drilled holes in the lower door sills, presumably for rust proofer.






I had bought a Rust proofing kit from Eastwood with a spray unit that attaches to a compressor but the spray applicator hose was too large and stiff to fit in the hole (which I did not want to enlarge).


So, instead, I ordered a few spray cans of aerosol rust proofer from Eastwood.




It comes with a 24" spray applicator. I put a mark about 1 1/2" from the end using a permanent marker so that I could tell when the applicator was almost out of the rocker panel hole.






The applicator nozzle is designed for spraying inside panels and directs the spray in all directions and aerosolizes it well.




The applicator just replaces the regular aerosol can spray ****.





I taped over all the holes that the might allow the rust proofer to leak out then use inserted the spray applicator all the way in - 24" was the perfect length.







I put down garbage bags to catch the inevitable drips and then just sprayed it in while slowly pulling the tubing out to lay down a thick coat. I did this twice in each direction and I think I used about half the spray can for both sides.




It says it dries in 2 - 4 days so I'll leave it alone for a while then wipe up all the drips (apparently it dries like amber honey). Then I'll just re-insert the Ziebart rubber caps over the holes.

Marc
p.s. if you're obsessed with car weight loss like me, it added about 8 oz.

 

Marc - Can you explain how your stands work on the lift? It looks like the center of weight is off the side of the lift, why isn't the stand falling off? Is it bolted on or something?

By the way, great thread. Enjoying it a lot.

 

Thanks.

You mean the silver raised stand? It is part of the Bend-Pak lift. The lower part of the silver stand wraps about the black bar slightly to hold on and can be slid in or out to adjust for different jack point locations. The other end of the black bar is bolted to the blue lift but can rotate (again to adjust for jack point locations).

Make sense? I can snap some photos tonight if that would help.

Marc

edit: sorry, no time - I'll try this weekend if work allows

 

Thanks for the explanation. Photos would be nice, if you have the time.

 

Hey Rob,

I hope these pictures make my explanation more clear. Sorry the car is on the lift right now so the pictures can't be better.

Marc

 

Marc - That helps a lot. Thanks.

 

Okay, not work but I was playing with my new colour digital video boroscope from Princess Auto and had to peer into the intake manifolds....don't those intake valves look pretty.

Marc














...the first shot shows the cylinder 1 valve open and you can see the injector - not some foreign body at 8 o'clock.

 

Little tip, let your garage know that Wevo mounts only have to be torqued to 40 ft-lbs or they'll end up crushed ....

Marc

 

Well, this weekend I managed to get my EGT and CHT wiring done so I could then re-install all the AppBiz Perlon RS carpet set.

No definitive guide but it is easy to do if you take your time. The spray 3M glue works very well and the overspray can be removed with Goo-Gone. Don't forget to build up around the edges of the centre console as the underpad adds a lot of height and the gap is large without.

I found the easiest way to cut the carpet for the fiddly bits was to use the old carpet as a template attaching the two together with binder clips and cutting using a sharp X-Acto knife.






The centre console was a challenge so, after cutting and fitting the carpet to it, I secured it with binder clips and left it for a week so the carpet would be better fit to the complex console before I glued it.




Overall it is a 8.5/10 visually (the photos make it look lumpy but it is not) and about about 55 lbs lighter without the sound insulation and thick carpet.












To cover the lumpy area under the rear window, I used a large sheet of fibreboard (used to mount posters to from the local craft store) and glued the carpet to this, scored it so it would fold, then screwed it to the factory tabs.






Rear seats and seat belts were removed a while ago.

Marc

 

Looks great.

I like the addition of the fibreboard to "clean up" the rear shelf area.

Thank you for sharing ~

 

Nice work Marc!

 

Okay - I've been holding out on you all.

I had been hoping to surprise a good friend of mine at the Miller track in June with my speed and then tell him how I did it afterwards but that's not going to happen.

Sadly Steven/trophy managed to find chunks of piston rings on his drain plug so is looking at an engine rebuild and will not be going to Miller in June. With that in mind, I thought I'd come clean as to what I've been up to. I really had to be careful as to what was visible in the background of my photos so far so as to not let anything be seen too early.


































THIS






Yes, my friends......that is an Eaton MP90 Generation 4 supercharger, baby.

Just one part of the TPC supercharger kit for the 964 that I got (with air/water intercooler).

I mean, come on, did anyone here actually believe that a total speed/track junkie like me rebuilt my engine last year with Pauter rods, ARP head studs, ARP rod bolts, Jerry Woods valve springs and Ti retainers just for reliability? All part of the plan. RS clutch? Plan. Steel syncho's? Billet shift forks? Plan. Plan. Plan.

It was all part of the plan to install this.

My car was dyno'ed at 227 rwhp which translates to about 285 fwhp a few years ago. I am hoping for 330-350 rwhp but that might take some extra massaging.

When you combine that with a car that weighs about 2950 lbs, it should be a bit of a rocket.


Regardless, I have all the parts from TPC. Their instructions are not great but the service has been good so far - always a 'phone call or an email away. Plus, one part so far did not fit and they FedEx overnighted me the new part.


I have made some progress so I'll update you as what where I am at now over the next few days.

Here are a few gratuitous shots of all the shiny bits that I have been drooling over since they arrived a few months ago.




Intake manifold.




Intake manifold bottom.




SC air intake elbow.




SC air outlet.




Eaton MP90 bypass valve.


I have read every thread I can find here and on the 993 forum several times over. So far the install is going well and I hope to be ready to fire it up in the next few weeks.



Hopefully this will be of interest to some of you guys here.


Marc
(Ilko will show up any moment now as the red light on his computer will alert him to a TPC/SC thread ).