KirkF

Dave,

I believe the inside line from the thermostat housing goes to the spigot closest to the tire on the oil cooler.
I can check for sure on thursday when I am back at home. (I'm working out of town this week)

My oil lines are not in great shape, but I am hoping to save the two long ones. I figure I might as well leave them for now, and if they leak after I start the engine, I'll order new ones.

How expensive were the ones you ordered?

Kirk
p.s. here is the pic from anthonys engine mount post on pelican.

Jasko

kirkF - thanks for the info - Thats what I thought was the setup. For some reason, it makes sense to me to have the hotter line on the outside.

AS for the lines, I'm having a local hydraulics shop fabricate some new lines using the old fittings. I'm using Aeroquip -16 lines (Steel braided, performance, FC333 I think)- Its a close fit to the metric that was originally used. Not all -16 lines are the same ID or OD, and the Aeroquip steel line seems to be the closest fit.
Don't have them hooked up yet, so don't know if its going to work (leak). Will either be a inexpensive successful alternative, or a complete waste of my time!!!! It is quite a bit of work to get it all set up so far.

Dave

KirkF

Dave,

Well let us know how it works out. These oil lines are ridiculously expensive.
If it wasn't for the fact I am buried in 800 other jobs, I would be looking to have them made up as well.

Kirk

KirkF

Well,

Still waiting for parts, and I will be working out of town this weekend, so here is some more boring stuff to fill in the time.

I parked the car with a full tank last year. (Not the smartest move I have ever made. ) So I figured I had better empty it out and put the gas in the other vehicles. (I'de hate to break in a new motor on year old gas)

I made up a Y jumper, and removed the DME relay. I put the Y jumper in between pins 3/5/7 which enabled the fuel pump and let me pump the tank dry.
(Also a very handy trick if your DME relay dies on the highway, as 3/5/7 should enable both the DME and fuel pump allowing you to get home)

KirkF

I decided to put the fan assembly together. I painted the casing in high heat black, the fan is powder coated in red, the pulley pieces are zinc dichromated.

Here is a set of pictures of each of the pieces going on in order. (I hope)
(just enough pictures to hurt anyones connection)

I will setup the spacers when its time to tension the belts.

Kirk

KirkF

And finally I replaced the factory flexible brake lines with SS replacements. Pretty much a miserable job, but I did manage to get them all installed without breaking any of the upstream brake lines. Plenty of penetrating oil helped here.

I was a little dissapointed with the fit of these lines, they seemed a bit long, and the holes for the bulkhead connector on the front fender had to be reamed out to make them fit.

Driver side rear wheel is pictured.

Kirk

Smokin

Kirk... Awesome pics... You have more patience than I do. I would need a "spare" engine to build while I drove my car.

pete000

I had the same issues when I put the SS line in my car...

KirkF

I have been working out of town alot lately, so work has slowed down to a crawl. And the work I have been getting done has been stopped a every turn it seems.

1. I figured I would put together the oil system to get it off my garage floor and out of the way. I replaced the aluminum sealing rings on the fittings in the thermostat housing, and proceeded to try and install the oil lines to the front radiator. Sadly it looks like one of the lines was unuseable after all. So I gave up and ordered two new lines from porsche. Lesson learned: 17 year old oil lines are more fight than their worth. Just give up from the start and replace them.
2. I ordered the wrong sealing rings for the fittings on the oil filter housing, so I had to reorder those from porsche.
3. I did manage to spend a couple of hours figuring out where the rest of the small hoses, etc go on the oil tank.

And thats where I gave up on the oil system, and decided to assemble the brake calipers instead.

Kirk

KirkF

Next I pulled the distributor off the shelf, and installed the roll pin into the bottom of the shaft. This copper pin is completely different from the original one I removed, I mushroomed the ends using a vise. Then I installed the new rotors and caps so the distributor woul be ready for install.

Kirk

KirkF

I replaced the fuel filter. (Since I pumped the tank dry through the other one)
This was a strangely satisfying job. Perhaps because I managed to start and finish it without a 3 month delay.

Kirk

KirkF

And now for the real stuff.
Cam timing.

I started by laying out the rocker arms, shafts, shaft seals, and adjusters. I cleaned them all with brake clean, put assembly lube on the parts, mounted the adjusters on the rockers, and put the RS seals on the rocker shafts. (These are small rubber seals used as as additional insurance against oil leaks.)

I don't know whether these work or not, and there has certainly been some heated debate on Pelican about their use. My theory was that I paid for them and they were going in.

I did notice when installing the rocker arm shafts that some of these seals were 'shaved' by the sharp edges of the bores.

Kirk

KirkF

Axl911 (Anthony) did such a great job of documenting the cam timing procedure in his rebuild thread I thought I would borrow it and use it here, and add a series of pictures to go with the steps. The text below is his (and I might add a note here or there))

Cam timing
To set timing for Cylinder 1.
1. Rotate the pulley so Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

2. Install cylinder 1 intake rocker.

3. Install some sort of tensioner device on the chain. I used a generic steering wheel puller. (I bought two small pullers for $8 each, they worked perfectly)

4. Make sure both cams have the dots pointed straight UP. Draw a line from the dot through the center of the cam will make it easier to see the dot is pointed straight up. (the dots on my cam shafts were not as accurate as using the keyed slot on the camshaft)

5. Put the pin into the cam sprocket where the holes line up. Do this for both sides. You can put the cam sprocket bolt in or not. Leaving it out makes it easier to see how the dot moves. (Put the pins in with the hole facing outward, if you put it in backwards you can use a small magnet to remove the pin, i think it is better to have the bolt installed, but not torqued.)

6. Adjust the cylinder #1 intake valve clearance to .1mm like you normally do in valve adjustment. (Be accuracte with this step)

7. Mount your dial gauge on cylinder #1 intake. And set it to zero value.

8. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise almost 360 degrees. As you approach the Z1 again you will notice the dial begin to move. Only rotate CLOCKWISE!!!!

9. Continue to rotate clockwise until the gauge moved 1.26mm or .05 inch. STOP.

10. Is the Z1 mark lined up with the case parting line? If not, use a small screw to remove the pin on the left side cam. Rotate the crank pulley until the Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

11. Now put the pin back into the cam sprocket where the holes line up.

12. Double check by rotating the crank pulley 720 degrees. By the time the Z1 comes around for the second time, when the Z1 is lined up with the crank pulley, your dial gauge should have moved 1.26mm or .05 inch.

13. You are done with cylinder #1. Don’t move anything.

14. If it takes more than 360 degrees to get the dial gauge to move 1.26mm, then you either don’t have the cam dot pointed straight up at the beginning or you did not adjust your cylinder 1 valve clearance properly.

Kirk

KirkF

Continuing with Axls procedure:

Now to set timing for Cylinder 4.
1. After completing the last step in setting timing for cylinder 1, the dot on the right cam should be pointed straight DOWN.

2. Install cylinder 4 intake rocker.

3. Install some sort of tensioner device on the chain. I used a generic steering wheel puller.

4. Adjust the cylinder 4 intake valve clearance to .1mm like you normally do in valve adjustment.

5. Mount your dial gauge on cylinder 4 intake. And set it to zero value.

6. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise almost 360 degrees. As you approach the Z1 again you will notice the dial begin to move.
7. Continue to rotate clockwise until the gauge moved 1.26mm or .05 inch. STOP.

8. Is the Z1 mark lined up with the case parting line? If not, use a small screw to remove the pin on the RIGHT side cam. Rotate the crank pulley until the Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

9. Put the pin back into the cam sprocket where the holes line up.

10. Double check by rotating the crank pulley 720 degrees. By the time the Z1 comes around for the second time, when the Z1 is lined up with the crank pulley, your dial gauge should have moved 1.26mm or .05 inch.

11. You are done!!!

12. If it takes more than 360 degrees to get the dial gauge to move 1.26mm, then you either don’t have the cam dot pointed straight up at the beginning or you did not adjust your cylinder 4 valve properly. (My dots were not in line with my keyed shafts and it caused me some problems on the right side timing.)

Then torque both cam gears to 88 ft/lbs.

*** I remember a thread this year where someone had their cam gear alignment pin fall out and the cam gear spun, causing severe engine damage. (John maybe?) At the time it was mentoned that this should be impossible because the cam bolt and its washer hold the pin in place. I noticed on my engine this is not necessarily true. If you use the correct cam holding tool, it will ensure the washer adequately covers the pin, more so if you tighten the bolt with the gear aligned with the pin at the bottom of the gear, however it is certainly possible to put this bolt/washer in, and not cover the pin, allowing it to fall out in the future. If you used some other method than the porsche tool to hold the cam gear while tightening the bolt, it would be easy to have no coverage of the pin. ***

Kirk

KirkF

Next I installed the #1 & #4 intake and exhaust rocker arms. I tightened the valve lash until there was no gap, and then turned the intake adjusters in 1.5 turns and the exhaust adjusters in 2 turns.
Then I VERY carefully rotated the engine to make sure there was adequate valve/piston clearance.

I wasnt really worried about this, or I would have used a less hazardous technique.

Kirk