JasonAndreas

The 1993 TSB from Porsche recommended not doing so but mechanics (all two of them) I've asked said they still lubricated the guide sleeve with 3EP. The Optimoly MPO (999-917-788-00) that Porsche recommends in a newer TSB for the 996, 996TT and GT3 models is a better high-pressure lubricant for plastic to metal contact but if you look around all the older (928, 944 -- I don't know if Porsche upgraded the release bearing for those models too.) guide sleeves are using 3EP. You absolutely have to use a high pressure grease or it will just rub off the guide sleeve so I would stick with 3EP if you don't have MPO.

I agree and I think so do all the owners complaining of their clutchs squeaking (that were installed dry) in the 996TT and GT3 forums.

24 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

KirkF

Jason,

Thanx once again. Ill use the 3EP on the guide tube as well.
At about 6:00pm CST (12 for you I think) I have a few friends coming over to help me manhandle this motor off the stand and get the tranny mounted. So I'm trying to get all my ducks in order while I can.



Kirk

KirkF

I see there is a ground wire hanging from the back cross frame rail that appears to go somewhere on either the top left (p.s.) of the engine or trans. Which does it bolt up?


(Just trying to get everything arranged in my head for the install. Since I am killing time waiting for people to arrive.)
Kirk

JasonAndreas

You're only one hour behind me so hopefully everything is installed and you're bolting the CV-joints onto the transmission by now.



??? -- connects to the lower mounting bolt for the starter

KirkF

Well actually I only went to the point of getting the engine bolted in and then I stopped there. I find it difficult to concentrate on the job when I have too many people in the garage. And tonight it was full. So by the time I managed to get everyone out, i decided I will just start fresh in the morning.

I installed those little rubber pieces between the back heat shield and the time covers. It was a pain, but I ended up taking off the back heat exchanger pipe to do it. I'm not sure if they were worth the effort, but whatever.

Then when my help arrived we placed the engine on the floor. I bolted the pressure plate on at 18 ft/lbs, applied the optimoly grease to the appropriate spots and bolted the trans to the engine, along with the starter.

Then my help lifted the engine & tranny onto my atv jack and we wheeled it under the car.

After the usual amount of fighting, the engine and tranny were bolted up on their mounts and I decided that was enough for tonight. Tomorrow I will begin at the front of the car and start working my way back installing things.

Still no studs for the rear wheels though.... Grr.

Kirk

KirkF

Jason what are you using for all these nice picture effects? red arrows, hilighted areas. sure makes the important parts of the picture stand out!

Kirk

Twood

Very very impressive -it has probably been suggested, but have you thought of gathering all your information and pictures and putting it into a book-I would certainly be interested.

JasonAndreas

Adobe Photoshop

KirkF

Geez. I spent a solid 12 hours today and I'm still not ready to start the engine. Sheesh.
Began at the front of the car and started working towards the back, connecting things as I went. I'm up to the firewall... Sigh.

Tomorrow maybe, if I get enough time to actually work on the car.


Here is a hard to answer question: (Cause I am too tired to take a picture.)

There is a rubber hose attached to the intake manifold right by the throttle linkage.
It goes behind the intake manifold and then joins with another rubber hose which goes to the oil reservoir, correct?
I think this hose is a little different between the early aluminum and later plastic style intakes.

Kirk

JasonAndreas

It's slightly different for the aluminum intake but I don't have pictures of that...

KirkF

Thanx Jason,
Looks like I have it right, but my car has that hose in two pieces with a connector in the middle.

Loaded the car up with fluids and turned it over.
The oil pressure looks good.

Put the DME relay in and tried to start it, but there is no spark.

I connected a KTS300 (hammer) to it, but it only seems to be finding the CCU and PDAS. Nothing about the DME. (I am not a hammer expert, but I think it should be in the list after I connect and tell it to go looking for installed items)

I am going to begin by checking for battery power and DME power at the DME connector as per the factory manuals.

Question: My care had a lightweight flywheel, and I have changed it to a DMF. Is the bracket for the speed referfence sensor the same for both of these?

More info after I check for DME power.

Kirk

dougn

i just replaced a DMF with a RS flywheel and used the same speed ref sensor for what it's worth

JasonAndreas

Porsche did change the gap allowance starting with MY90 from 0.8 +- .2mm to 1 +- .2mm. If this was set incorrectly it wouldn't keep the DME from responding to the Bosch Hammer but a faulty DME relay could.

KirkF

Pins 24-18 have 13.7 V with key off
pins 24-37 have 12.7 volts with key on
pins 47-48 speed ref sensor input shows a signal > 3v p-p

Now I am at a loss. Car should start. But has no spark.

Kirk

JasonAndreas

You should also see the airbag control unit, did you disconnect it? "If the airbag control unit is disconnected, control of the DME relay and, hence, of terminal 15 of the DME control unit is interrupted."

You saw the blurb in the manuals about "Check power supply from ignition lock to terminal 86 of the DME relay via the burglar alarm control unit in accordance with the wiring diagram?"

Did you connect the transmission/engine ground strap?