KirkF

Chad,

Those are rims from a 928. I use them for my winter wheels (I have a set of Blizzaks on them)
I'm glad you're enjoying the pics and stuff. Honestly its lucky I am making this such a 'public' project because today around noon I was ready to throw a match on the thing and watch it burn.

The 'scope creep' on this project is ridiculous. Every time I work on it, something comes up that forces me to go down an avenue I had no interest in exploring.



Kirk

Chad T

Thanks Kirk and thank you for taking the time to document all of your hard work. Your car is going to be very solid when this is all done and should run better than it ever has. I think anyone who has done a lot of work on older cars has felt the same way at one time or another. I had a 1993 Audi S4 that I was putting a clutch in. I coudn't get the motor to bolt back in and finally figured out it was the pressure plate was the wrong size. Rather than wait for a new part I decided to try and shave the bell housing down with a grinder. Well I poked through it and trans oil started gushing out. I know how you feel. I definitely felt like taking a match to that project. This was after 3 days of working under the car on jack stands in 90 degree heat.

KirkF

Well I repacked the original bearings in the distrubutor, put the new belt in and sealed it up. I just have to order the pin for the bottom gear and thats it. (as well as new caps & rotors)

My hands were too goopy with grease for pictures of the distributor reassembly, but there has been lots of threads on the topic already.

Here are some pics of me taking it apart.

Kirk

Jasko

Kirk,
Looks great, thanks for taking the time to post the pics. It really gives a better idea of how the job is done.

Dave

KirkF

I had to work for part of the weekend so not alot got done motor wise.
I got more parts back from the powder coaters. The red parts and the Zinc dichromate. **SHINEY!**

I also received the cat bypass from fabspeed. Also very Shiney.

I put the cylinder air ducts on the engine, and that was about it.

To be honest I decided I needed to install a ceiling fan in the garage because it was too hot in there, and that chewed up half the day.


Kirk

puma1824

That build is going to be sooo nice!

Chad T

Looking good! Those parts look great. Reminds me of building models as a kid.

Jeff Curtis

HOLY CRAP...you are one thorough dude!

...this is a GOOD thing, you deserve to have a VERY well running engine, no doubt.

That is the CLEANEST case I have ever seen, who cleaned it up for you?? ...or did you do it yourself? Mine has been apart twice and I still have factory residue from the undercoating cosmoline (SP?), etc. on the exterior...good job.

Your case assembly with the sheet metal pieces holding the timing chain and rods is utter perfection...I made a mental note of that for next time.

ONE VERY IMPORTANT ITEM: the MGD in the backround, people need to realize that this is an essential tool during an engine rebuild process!

WOW, I'd be willing to bet that your build is of much higher quality than that of 90% of the shops out there that claim they can provide a quality build, score one for the DIY'er...I'm impressed.

KirkF

Well at the very worst, it will be a pretty engine that doesnt run well.


I had the engine steam cleaned, and then I spent alot of time cleaning it by hand. The camera makes it look a little nicer than it really is. The flash makes the aluminum shine.
There has been plenty of beer for this rebuild. Especially lately as its been preety hot out!

Kirk

wsybert

That is some nice work! Love the attention to detail and all of the shiney parts.
Everytime I read this post, I want to pull mine and start rebuilding it.
For me, top end and reseal this winter.... maybe more??
Thanks for taking the time to post everything.
Bill

KirkF

I started off today with picking up a new parts washer (bigger) and a parcel from Purolater with my new intake assembly. (I am replacing the 89 aluminum intakes and throttle body with the later style plastic ones)

Then I cleaned the cam towers and heads for them to go on the engine

After using the new parts washer for 5 minutes I was really kicking myself for struggling with the little benchtop one for the last year.

Kirk

KirkF

I began by organizing all the parts for assembly of the left side heads and cam towers.

I got the oil drain tubes ready by lubing up the green viton O-rings with dow corning 111. I installed the O-rings on the tubes and put them in place on the block.

Then I wiped down the mating surfaces of the block, heads and cam towers with alchohol, and placed the cylinder sealing rings in place.

KirkF

The head stud threads were lubed with optimoly HT and then the heads put in place, with the head stud nuts finger tight.

I used threebond 1104 on the cam tower mating surface, and then put the cam tower in place. (Left side cam tower has a blockoff in place of the hole for the power steering pump)

The oil drain tubes were blocked with some paper towel, and the 18 cam tower nuts & washers were put on, and torqued in sequence.

All new fasteners are being used (Pelican has a complete kit)

KirkF

After I finished torquing the cam tower to 17 ft lbs in 2 steps I moved on to the head studs.
The head stud nuts were torqued in sequence to 11 ft lbs, and then torqued in sequence + 90 degrees.

Then I put the cam in place and rotated it to check for any problems with binding.

After that I got curious what the valve covers were going to look like so I set them in place.

Tomorrow I will do the right side of the engine.


Kirk

KirkF

I continued today by installing the heads and cam tower on the right side of the engine.
One thing I noted for both sides was that when I torqued the head nuts to 11 ft lbs, by the time I was done all 12, the first ones would be finger tight again. It required about 4 times to get them to a consistent 11 ft lbs. Is this because the sealing ring is crushing?

Kirk