964 Engine Rebuild
09-10-2006, 02:49 AM
#151
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I installed the cam chain tensioners. I used a little Curil T on the gasket.
A funny story: I was installing the left side tensioner when the phone rang. I had the nuts and the washers just started on both sides. I was on the phone not facing the engine, when I heard a clink and something like the sound of dropping a penny down a pipe. Looking at the motor I realised one of the nuts and washers had popped off from the spring tension... And in my head it just didn't sound like it had hit the floor. I stared for about 10 minutes searching for the nut and washer, and they were nowhere to be found... My eyes kept coming back to the open hole for the distributor. I stuffed magnets etc down there and found nothing, and kept searching the floor and other parts of the motor, finally I decided that it must have somehow flipped through the air and made a perfect landing down that hole. I rotated the motor over, and shook it madly. I could hear the parts moving in the engine, but I couldnt locate the noise. Finally after about 45 minutes of searching, rotating the motor and shaking, the nut and washer dropped out of the distributor hole. Imagine if I hadn't caught that little oopsie! Lesson: Even the most unlikely hole needs to be plugged while assembling an engine.
Tensioner Picture Also 'borrowed' from Axls thread.
Kirk
A funny story: I was installing the left side tensioner when the phone rang. I had the nuts and the washers just started on both sides. I was on the phone not facing the engine, when I heard a clink and something like the sound of dropping a penny down a pipe. Looking at the motor I realised one of the nuts and washers had popped off from the spring tension... And in my head it just didn't sound like it had hit the floor. I stared for about 10 minutes searching for the nut and washer, and they were nowhere to be found... My eyes kept coming back to the open hole for the distributor. I stuffed magnets etc down there and found nothing, and kept searching the floor and other parts of the motor, finally I decided that it must have somehow flipped through the air and made a perfect landing down that hole. I rotated the motor over, and shook it madly. I could hear the parts moving in the engine, but I couldnt locate the noise. Finally after about 45 minutes of searching, rotating the motor and shaking, the nut and washer dropped out of the distributor hole. Imagine if I hadn't caught that little oopsie! Lesson: Even the most unlikely hole needs to be plugged while assembling an engine.
Tensioner Picture Also 'borrowed' from Axls thread.
Kirk
Last edited by KirkF; 09-12-2006 at 12:52 AM.
09-10-2006, 02:59 AM
#152
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I dissassembled the cam housing oil line bridges and replaced the black O-rings. (I lubed these up with dow corning 111 O ring lube before installing them) and I replaced the small red O-rings on the chain case.
Last edited by KirkF; 09-12-2006 at 12:55 AM.
09-10-2006, 03:10 AM
#153
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Next I installed the rest of the rocker arms.
And the temperature sensor.
When you install the distributor the rotor should be centered on the notch on the distributor base. (Engine set at Z1 TDC for #1 cylinder)
Kirk
And the temperature sensor.
When you install the distributor the rotor should be centered on the notch on the distributor base. (Engine set at Z1 TDC for #1 cylinder)
Kirk
09-20-2006, 04:07 AM
#154
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I received the latest pile of parts from porsche this week, which allowed me to get the oil system back in one piece.
I installed new aluminum sealing rings on the oil filter housing and the connections for the oil cooler, and then I put the new oil lines in from the cooler to the thermostat, and then the oil reservoir and the pile of hoses related to it.
Kirk
I installed new aluminum sealing rings on the oil filter housing and the connections for the oil cooler, and then I put the new oil lines in from the cooler to the thermostat, and then the oil reservoir and the pile of hoses related to it.
Kirk
Last edited by KirkF; 09-25-2006 at 11:23 PM.
09-20-2006, 04:16 AM
#155
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The next step for the motor was to install the power steering
1. Replace O-ring and seal on power steering casing. The O-ring got some Dow corning 111 on it.
2. The left rear tin is installed and then the power steering pump and housing are pushed into place on the left cam shaft
3. PLace the cam shaft holding tool on the front of the camshaft (At the timing chain) and then bolt on the power steering sprocket with the belt in place. The cam shaft tool lets you hold everything steady while you torque it. Then mount the small silver cover in place. Remember to put the standoff in the hole of the small silver cover.
4. Next mount the secondary exhaust bracket on the two standoffs, bolt on the second small piece of rear tin, and the plastic cover at the top of the assembly.
Kirk
1. Replace O-ring and seal on power steering casing. The O-ring got some Dow corning 111 on it.
2. The left rear tin is installed and then the power steering pump and housing are pushed into place on the left cam shaft
3. PLace the cam shaft holding tool on the front of the camshaft (At the timing chain) and then bolt on the power steering sprocket with the belt in place. The cam shaft tool lets you hold everything steady while you torque it. Then mount the small silver cover in place. Remember to put the standoff in the hole of the small silver cover.
4. Next mount the secondary exhaust bracket on the two standoffs, bolt on the second small piece of rear tin, and the plastic cover at the top of the assembly.
Kirk
Last edited by KirkF; 09-25-2006 at 11:26 PM.
09-20-2006, 04:33 AM
#156
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The next steps need to be done in order, or you get to redo them...
At this point the right side flywheel tin can get mounted with the wires for the flywheel sensor and temperature sensor installed and the left and right side tin.
Then the timing covers can be installed. I used dow corning 111 lube on the rubber bushings in the screws, and I used a small amount of Threebond 1104 on the cover and engine mating surface for the gasket.
The small cap at the front of the motor also got a new viton O-ring with dow corning 111 on it.
Then the belt break sensor is installed, followed by the air conditioning bracket and the flywheel. The a/c bracket is not bolted down at this point because it needs to be loose to allow the fan shroud on top of the motor room to fit in place. (And because the motor mounts still have to go on)
Kirk
Kirk
At this point the right side flywheel tin can get mounted with the wires for the flywheel sensor and temperature sensor installed and the left and right side tin.
Then the timing covers can be installed. I used dow corning 111 lube on the rubber bushings in the screws, and I used a small amount of Threebond 1104 on the cover and engine mating surface for the gasket.
The small cap at the front of the motor also got a new viton O-ring with dow corning 111 on it.
Then the belt break sensor is installed, followed by the air conditioning bracket and the flywheel. The a/c bracket is not bolted down at this point because it needs to be loose to allow the fan shroud on top of the motor room to fit in place. (And because the motor mounts still have to go on)
Kirk
Kirk
Last edited by KirkF; 09-25-2006 at 11:46 PM.
09-20-2006, 04:41 AM
#157
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The wiring harness is installed from the back of the engine, with its rubber bung pushed into the slot in the flywheel side engine tin.
The plastic upper shroud is put in place, and the wiring to the alternator is put through it. There are two ground wires that need to be attached at the top of the engine.
Then the wires for the knock sensors can be pulled though the shroud.
The alternator wires can then be attached and the alternator strapped down.
The plastic upper shroud is put in place, and the wiring to the alternator is put through it. There are two ground wires that need to be attached at the top of the engine.
Then the wires for the knock sensors can be pulled though the shroud.
The alternator wires can then be attached and the alternator strapped down.
Last edited by KirkF; 09-25-2006 at 11:50 PM.
09-20-2006, 04:48 AM
#158
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Now the front engine tin and engine mount can be installed, bolting down the a/c bracket at the same time.
Then the engine is rotated over and the oil line to the oil filter is installed, followed by the exhaust headers. (remember to never sieze the studs and put the exhaust gaskets in place)
Then the engine is rotated over and the oil line to the oil filter is installed, followed by the exhaust headers. (remember to never sieze the studs and put the exhaust gaskets in place)
Last edited by KirkF; 09-25-2006 at 11:56 PM.
09-20-2006, 04:58 AM
#159
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The intakes and fuel rails can go on next. The injectors should have new o-rings (with o-ring lube) installed on them. It is almost impossible to describe the placement of all of these pieces for the injection system. Make sure you take lots of pictures before dissassembly.
I updated my car with the newer plastic manifolds and throttle body at the same time.
I updated my car with the newer plastic manifolds and throttle body at the same time.
Last edited by KirkF; 09-26-2006 at 12:00 AM.
09-20-2006, 05:08 AM
#160
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Before placing the manifold assembly on the engine, install the cruise control unit.
The newer plastic manifolds have different pipiing and holders than the older aluminum intakes.
I also installed a cone air filter assembly. This came with a small L-Bracket that I couldn't find any use for. As best I could tell the manufacturer expected the filter and air flow sensor to just rest on top of the engine and vibrate.
I made up an aluminum bracket to secure it.
The newer plastic manifolds have different pipiing and holders than the older aluminum intakes.
I also installed a cone air filter assembly. This came with a small L-Bracket that I couldn't find any use for. As best I could tell the manufacturer expected the filter and air flow sensor to just rest on top of the engine and vibrate.
I made up an aluminum bracket to secure it.
Last edited by KirkF; 09-26-2006 at 12:05 AM.
09-20-2006, 05:20 AM
#161
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Up to this point I had been avoiding setting the valve lash because I am still missing one of the lock nuts for the adjusters. But I decided to do all of them but #5 intake so I could keep going. In some of the pictures you may see the cup pipe, cat bypass and parts of the heat exchangers installed. This was a mistake on my part because:
1. before installing the hear exchanger piping the fiber shrouds need to be installed
2. it is barely posssible to install the plugs past the cat bypass, and it is not possible to put the plug wire into cylinder #1 lower with the cat bypass and Imagine auto valve covers installed.
The valve lash is done in firing order, beginning with number 1, set the lash on the intake & exhaust rockers to .1mm and then rotate the engine 120 deg and do the next cylinder (6), etc. When you rotate the engine 120, there is a mark that will be aligned on the Z1 spot.
The is a good time to remove any paper towels you have pluigging the oil return tube holes. It would suck to forget about them.
When the valves are all adjusted, you can install the valve covers, plugs and put the plug wires in place.
1. before installing the hear exchanger piping the fiber shrouds need to be installed
2. it is barely posssible to install the plugs past the cat bypass, and it is not possible to put the plug wire into cylinder #1 lower with the cat bypass and Imagine auto valve covers installed.
The valve lash is done in firing order, beginning with number 1, set the lash on the intake & exhaust rockers to .1mm and then rotate the engine 120 deg and do the next cylinder (6), etc. When you rotate the engine 120, there is a mark that will be aligned on the Z1 spot.
The is a good time to remove any paper towels you have pluigging the oil return tube holes. It would suck to forget about them.
When the valves are all adjusted, you can install the valve covers, plugs and put the plug wires in place.
Last edited by KirkF; 09-26-2006 at 12:13 AM.
09-20-2006, 09:54 AM
#163
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
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Originally Posted by KirkF
Next I pulled the distributor off the shelf, and installed the roll pin into the bottom of the shaft. This copper pin is completely different from the original one I removed, I mushroomed the ends using a vise. Then I installed the new rotors and caps so the distributor woul be ready for install.
Kirk
Kirk
By the way... To say you are doing an excellent job documenting this would be an understatement! Fantastic... simply fantastic work!
EDIT - By the way... we need to make sure that these pictures stay attached to this thread forever... It MUST go into the DIY section when finished. I'd be more than happy to host the pictures if space is needed!
09-20-2006, 12:46 PM
#165
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Rick,
The distributor venting is setup 'as found'
I dont know why they would have vented both distributors, they are connected through the area where the belt travels. (obviously) My cars receipt history did show this belt failed early in its history and took out one of the pistons with it when it went, so they probably wanted really good ventilation on that belt as insurance against future failures.
As for the thread, if I had time I would like to take what I've written and put it in a PDF or something with the pics more inline with the text instead of all at the bottom of the thread. It would be nice to add more detail too with some of the torque settings, etc. But who knows if there will be time for that or not.
At the very least everyone gets to see everything involved with a total rebuild.
Kirk
The distributor venting is setup 'as found'
I dont know why they would have vented both distributors, they are connected through the area where the belt travels. (obviously) My cars receipt history did show this belt failed early in its history and took out one of the pistons with it when it went, so they probably wanted really good ventilation on that belt as insurance against future failures.
As for the thread, if I had time I would like to take what I've written and put it in a PDF or something with the pics more inline with the text instead of all at the bottom of the thread. It would be nice to add more detail too with some of the torque settings, etc. But who knows if there will be time for that or not.
At the very least everyone gets to see everything involved with a total rebuild.
Kirk