When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A couple things made me choose GC - I liked the camber adjustment option, the strut mount point is higher so you can have more travel if you plan on running the car low (which I do), and lastly they supply the coils as well so they ship everything assembled and together. I went with rennline top mounts for the rears and had them shipped to GC prior to assembly.
Springs are Eibach 440/650lb, recommended by MCS. Might be a bit stiff, we'll see.
Tom
Thanks so much for the feedback! I didn't realize that about the strut mount point. I'm a bit of a stancy guy so running a bit lower (not crazy low) aligns with my needs. I will look into these and see which MCS dealer I go with can accommodate. I'm thinking of doing Swift Springs but we'll see. Glad to see options others are using.
Tarrett allows for better caster adjustment and is based off the factory RSR designs with more adjustment. i would opt for 2 WNR instead. I did this and find i have greater control over my adjustments and am not locked into what the single adjustment offers.
My understanding was the Tarrett offering was designed specifically not to adjust caster....is that not the case? Thats what their website says anyways, and looking at the design I can't see how it would have any caster adjustment.
In any case, I spec'd 2WNR as well but ultimately decided I didn't need more adjustments to fiddle with. If the springs end up being too stiff it won't be too hard to swap them out.
Tarrett allows for better caster adjustment and is based off the factory RSR designs with more adjustment. i would opt for 2 WNR instead. I did this and find i have greater control over my adjustments and am not locked into what the single adjustment offers.
IMO you will be way to stiff for street driving with 440/650 I went with 400/500 and 225 pound tenders which soften up the bad roads a lot. I was considering dropping down to a softer spring but as I make more adjustments I find I am enjoying it as is.
This ^
i made the same mistake with my 2 way coilover system.. Too harsh. 450/600 was too much. Setup now is 350/500. With solid top mounts it’s really good on the street.
Anyways, with all the parts to complete my suspension overhaul finally on hand, I got cracking (this was actually a few months ago....but I'm slow). The big boy ratchet out for the axle nuts.
Axle nuts broken loose, and up on jack stands where it will live for 2-13 weeks
Teardown begins in the front. Most of this is relatively recently refreshed hen I did my initial temporary suspension/brake work a couple years ago.
Front brakes off, rotors off, hubs pulled. No issues so far.
Front inner CV boots are torn on both sides. I've never rebuilt CV joints but it is said to be messy....I can confirm, although its not as bad as I as expecting actually.
Suspension, control arms and longs out. Still no major issues.
All the bits removed. Only the drive shafts and hubs will really be reused from this pile.
My C4 had the early style hubs/uprights with a spring clip retaining ring for the wheel bearing and a dust cover on the hub. Dust cover pulls off with a puller easily.
Front drive shaft also has a dust cover that needs to be removed when moving to 993RS uprights. This also pulls off easily with a puller.
E-brake disassembly. This was originally a California car and everything comes apart very nicely, nothing is corroded or seized together.
Pretty close to fully disassembled now.
Aaaaand I get distracted. At some point I want to change to an electric power steering pump, and I found a reasonably priced but somewhat leaky 993 rack. It had leaky seals, but no pitting at all so I rebuilt it with a KLA kit.
Anyways, back to the main event. Hardware was all degreased in the ultrasonic and then tumbled with walnut media, to be sent off for gold cad plating.
Another shot of some of the filthy stuff from under the car. The car is in great shape but 35yrs of grime adds up.
With the hardware off to be plated, I moved back to rebuilding the CV joints. Its a little messy but really not that bad.
Hardware back from the platers. Very nice working with fresh clean hardware!
Another distraction for a future project....a couple teaser photos.
993 control arms with elephant racing sport bushings, 993RS factory uprights, 993 longs and a spare set of spare trailing arms with elephant bushings. All sandblasted by fellow rennlister Andreas and getting a coat of 2K clear before install.
CV joints back together.
Build up of the rear end on the bench
Preparing for install, but chaos is high in the garage.
Front end is coming together.
Pretty much back together now.
Rear end ready to mount to the car. quite heavy actually, I needed the help of the floor jack to do it on my own.
Very near completion! Excitement building....
Defeat. when bleeding the brakes, there were leaks from both rear calipers. When I rebuilt the calipers I used Brembo seals for the fronts, but I got aftermarket seals for the rears - I think at the time I couldn't find Brembo ones, or maybe the Brembo kits were more expensive and came with pistons that I didn't need, I don't remember exactly. I do remember the rear seals being incredibly tight and it would appear I tore some of them upon install.
Back on the bench. Girodisc is relatively close to me and also carries seals, so I rebuilt them again with their seals. Very annoying but not catastrophic (remember that word...).
Everything got buttoned up, took it for an alignment and got it back this afternoon. Went for a test drive and it feels great!
Unfortunately this photo is not from outside my house, but rather from where I heard a loud bang and lost the ability to drive. Something in the drivetrain let go....felt like it was in the front. I suspect either the front diff or one of the CV joints I rebuilt - occam's razor suggests CV joint but I don't know yet. I'll have to go back with a floor jack and see whats happening, but I'll be taking the night off to cool down....
Cars are indeed a pain...That totally sucks to reach the finish line and then have to disassemble again. I hope it's the smallest issue and a quick fix so you're back on the road soon.
Alright, we're back in business! Unfortunately I think the issue is too embarrassing to post, but let's just say I should have done a more thorough bolt check the first time....
Complete list of changes (I think):
- 993 Brakes in red, front and rear, fully rebuilt
- Racingbrake 304x32 2-piece rotors
- Tarett Stud Conversion Kit for front calipers
- 993RS Factory Uprights
- 993 Control Arms
- 993 Longs
- 993RS Factory Tie Rods (I may want to change these)
- Elephant Racing Sport Bushings front and rear
- Elephant Racing Front Adjustable Drop Links (C4)
- ERP Spring Plates
- Tarett Rear Adjustable Drop Links
- H&R Swaybars front and rear
- MCS 1WNR Coilovers with H&R Springs
- Ground Control Camber plates
- Elephant Racing Rear Top Mounts
I think thats it. I'm going to drive it for a while and then evaluate any alignment changes - camber is pretty aggressive right now, I may back it off some (~-2.5 f and r). Car feels great so far, I was concerned the springrates would be too high for the street but it doesn't seem bad so far - we'll see when I get on some poor condition roads. Overall very happy with the results. Would I do it all again? I don't know, I think so. This all started because I bought a single 993RS upright used on craigslist and then slid down the very slippery slope... Anyways, here's a picture of how it sits now:
Noticed the WA plates in your pictures, perhaps I will see you at some upcoming PCA events.
AROUND THE REGION - JUNE 2024
SHOW 'N SHINE - @CARILLON POINT JUNE 30TH
UPDATE! NEW LOCATION FOR THE JUNE 30TH SHOW 'N SHINE EVENT NOW @CARILLON POINT IN KIRKLAND NOTE: the event location has been changed to Carillon Point. We hope to be at Burgermaster in Issaquah next year.
Come on out with your shined up car and display it with your friends. No reservation is needed; just show up. We'll have coffee and pastries for when you arrive. Awards will be given for general presentation, condition, uniqueness and preparation. No opening of doors or storage areas. Three Judge's Choice awards will be given. Awards presentation at 11 a.m. Show 'n Shine at Carillon Point - Events - Pacific NW Region, Porsche Club of America (pnwr.org)
3RD ANNUAL BLACK RAVEN PNWR MEETUP JULY 14TH, NOON - 3PM
We're back! The biggest party of the summer and social event is being held at Black Raven Brewing in Woodinville on Sunday July 14th. As in previous years, we will have music, food trucks, a special car from Porsche Bellevue and our favorite Group6ix will be on site. This is a come as you are car meet. Parking is first come first served (please do not show up 2 hours early) and the weather should be great this time of year! Kid and dog friendly too.
Curious why you might consider changing the RS tierods?
The RS tie rods still use a rubber isolator on the inner, which I don't really like the idea of. I was thinking I would pin them but when installing them I wasn't very impressed with the quality. I'm sure they'll work fine but the inner on one of them has the portion that connects to the rack and the portion that connects to the outer out of concentricity. Sort of hard to explain, but I think the tarett option is a better solution. I'll make the move when I change the rack and go electric ps pump.
Alright, we're back in business!
-
Would I do it all again? I don't know, I think so. This all started because I bought a single 993RS upright used on craigslist and then slid down the very slippery slope... Anyways, here's a picture of how it sits now:
Tom
I just read through this entire build thread. What a journey! The hands-on work is admirable.
interesting to see that you went with 993 longitudinals. I see you wanted to widen the track. I went down this same path a few years ago when installing the MCS 2 ways, to avoid notching the strut towers. I’m in the process of tearing down the front suspension to go back to the 964 side members. Doh. The 993 longitudinals pushed the wheels too far outboard making it impossible for to run wider than 225 up front. I’m tired of feeling the front end getting pushed around, so it’s back to the 964 longitudinals to get to 245 up front.
I note you had to swap to a 993 ARB. I don’t recall doing that, but if so I’m going to have to unwind that as well.
12-12-2023, 01:13 PM
