Thanks Tom! That is a lot of questions

I am pretty sure a higher sample rate would show pressure waves tied to the batch fire and associated harmonic also.

Raw fuel pressure is just the measured gauge pressure just like you would see on a FP gauge. The adjusted pressure is calculated and is the raw fuel pressure minus the manifold pressure which should theoretically always be 58 psi (4 bar).

Wiring to the 044 is solid with a large supply direct from the battery and a dedicated relay.

The graphing is with Excel 2013 which took a bit to figure out but is really killer! LiveGraph is Java based and should be a nice solution for coding in cross platform.

I like the idea of putting the Bosch 3 bar unit back on and looking at the data for comparison. Thanks!

 

Perhaps a larger fuel rail?

 

I think you'll find the cooling is from evaporation and not from relative temperature of the sprayed water. Note you're not seeing any water exiting. Did you get any additional cooling with the ice water? I'll bet not. It's working great, btw.

 

What does happen to the water once it's sprayed onto the I/C ? If it comes through the I/C would it hit the rad and evaporate? I was thinking about doing same but we had concerns that this would go through our ducted system and wind up all over the windscreen?

 

You should measure the intercooler delta, better data IMO.

What gear/gears are those pulls from ? To effectively measure IC heatsoak you neeed prolonged WOT runs.

I still believe Meth (50/50) injection would give you better results in cooling the intake air with the added benefit of increased octane

Here is also some good IC and Intake manifold DIY testing http://www.myaudis4.com/intercooler-faceoff/

 

Hey Shawn,

How much & Where did you get the FPS from? My oil filled gauge oil turned yellow (assuming from e85) so something went wrong there so i need to replace asap. I figure i may as well log it.

 

We shall see.

Thanks Michael! I did not notice much difference with the ice water as I recall so I suspect you are right and it makes sense.

Edit: I just looked at some math and the energy required for evaporation is over 8X the amount of energy required to take water from freezing to boiling!

The sprayers I used (RainBird Garden Sprayers) are adjustable I would dial them back to a conservative output to be sure complete evaporation occurs. Have you been logging IC temps? My main reason for these sprayers was fear that my IC was too small and it would heat soak.

Thanks for the link.

See below:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261260635816?item=261260635816&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
0-5V output and very linear. I would calibrate it however at your supply voltage (+5V).

 

at what point do you switch to a cam-driven injection pump

 

I was just thinking of it as an extra insurance on the hot days rather than tune for it. Haven't been logging I'C temps just yet.

 

I have thought about doing this a long time. Just too lazy.

But keep in mind that STis have this factory..its there for a reason.





Here are some other ideas to cover the IC more evenly...

http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced...0Sprayers.html

 

Hit the dyno tonight and got some interesting results. Power definitely does not roll off with this intake, keeps climbing all the way to redline. The other thing that looks very encouraging is that I am getting about 20 hp/psi from 20 to 21 psi. With the old intake it was about 8 hp/psi. The motor is screaming to go higher in boost but I am out of injectors. New injectors and 24 psi coming soon. I will be posting more data in the next day or so.

 

Great news Shawn! Can you also add a pic of your dyno with the stock intake for comparison.
That's a big jump at the wheels for only 1psi!!

 

Yes please post a comparison..

Awesome results!!

 

How much - if any - torque did you lose at the lower RPM's with the new intake? I'm curious how much the area under the curve changed between 2,000-3,500 RPM's.

 

A longer duration/lift cam timed correctly should now flatten up that slightly falling torque curve.

Well done Shawn!