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Patrick's build thread. (IT RUNS!)

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Old 12-14-2014, 05:06 AM
  #961  
mikey_audiogeek
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Pulled rest of motor down to find this. Now is Toast. Yay! Whatever led to the failure had a resounding success through the whole motor. Not sure of cause but plenty of symptoms. Pity....

Neeeexxxxt!!!!
Don't like that last photo. Surely that couldn't be the culprit? (surely not?)
Old 12-14-2014, 06:31 AM
  #962  
Thom
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Gutted for you Patrick...

Looks like one of the two counter weights on the rear bearing got damaged?
Old 12-14-2014, 06:34 AM
  #963  
333pg333
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Hard to say if it was cause or symptom, just like a bunch of other things that failed.

Order of events were that when Paul went out on the brand new (treated [shaved/heat cycled]) tyres he came straight back into the pits after thinking that the vibration might have been loose wheel nuts. Assured that this wasn't the case he went out and did one hot lap. He came back in and the next session he went out on supposedly less affected tyres. The CV broke straight away and he came back in. We cobbled together a replacement setup and waited for the next session. He then had the first motor hardware failure which was the dry sump pulley. So he drove back to the workshop and made a whole new one out of a block of alu. Came back and fitted this and we thought we were going to be ok but had to come back in immediately after that when the b/shaft pulley sheared in half. Oh, and there was also a big crack in the intake which we also attribute to this high vibration / harmonic issue. We didn't discover that the rear suspension X member was also bent badly to such a point that the car actually had really high rear wheel toe out. It's easy enough to pontificate about what might have been the first domino. I am still not so sure it wasn't issues at the rear of the car that might have transferred down through the torque tube into the motor. There has been a big evil harmonic that has affected many parts but what caused it to start when we seemingly had none of these problems throughout the year. I say seemingly as there would appear to be evidence (metallurgically speaking) that the b/shaft pulley didn't break in one event. It looks like there are different colours in that break which might suggest it was stressing prior to failure.
Old 12-14-2014, 06:43 AM
  #964  
333pg333
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Originally Posted by Thom
Gutted for you Patrick...

Is it normal that the two counter weights on the rear bearing of the crank do not seem to be symmetrical? Looks like the front counter weight got damaged?
Something does look odd there. Nobody has ever said anything about that so I assumed it wasn't totally unusual and must have been to do with balancing the crank when it was done initially. Now I look at that and think it doesn't seem right. I'll ask some more questions.
Old 12-14-2014, 06:47 AM
  #965  
mikey_audiogeek
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True. Just looking at the radial cracks around that stud, and the fracture plane, and thinking it looks like a hydraulic fracture (trapped oil). Might have initiated previous to your build. Would have made for some weird dynamics which might explain everything else.

Anyway, looking forward: 16V FTW!

Cheers,
Mike
Old 12-14-2014, 06:51 AM
  #966  
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Looks like it's on the second crank bearing that the block cracked... If a hydraulic fracture, could the dry sump system add more oil pressure than the block can handle?

If yes then perhaps the dry sump pump built so much pressure that it put too much stress on the crank pulley which eventually cracked? There must be a bleed valve somewhere in the circuit?

Last edited by Thom; 12-14-2014 at 07:33 AM.
Old 12-14-2014, 10:47 AM
  #967  
Paulyy
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Oh a better look at those photos. I'll change my thoughts! I never saw the crank side of the pics. Your pulley actually broke. I thought it sheared the keyway like mine did.

If the oil pump belt was to tight i see that happening.

Picture this. looking in front of the engine, you've got the oil pump on the right where the AC usually sits.
You have the extra pulley extended out from the crank
having the small amount of tightness will cause flex that fatigues the pulleys and causes them to crack.
It's easier to flex a tube of steel if it's 1m long than 200mm long in that sense.

It would be so good if you could run the power steering, alt and oil pump of one belt. IMO.
Old 12-14-2014, 11:47 AM
  #968  
V2Rocket
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Patrick..
stop breaking our motors

At least it failed spectacularly. Is that block reusable with a new girdle?
Old 12-14-2014, 02:01 PM
  #969  
Dave W.
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Wow, spectacular failure!
Perhaps you could use a main girdle reinforcing bridge? Something like this but made for the 951 block;
http://kiggly-racing.com/all/main-girdle.html
Old 12-14-2014, 05:17 PM
  #970  
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Sorry for you Patrick, you are one who pushes the edge with our cars. I trust you will come back faster and stronger
Old 12-14-2014, 05:24 PM
  #971  
mikey_audiogeek
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Originally Posted by Thom
Looks like it's on the second crank bearing that the block cracked... If a hydraulic fracture, could the dry sump system add more oil pressure than the block can handle?

If yes then perhaps the dry sump pump built so much pressure that it put too much stress on the crank pulley which eventually cracked? There must be a bleed valve somewhere in the circuit?

By hydraulic fracture I mean that trapped oil in the stud tapped hole was pressurised (many thousands of psi) when the stud was wound in.

Last edited by mikey_audiogeek; 12-14-2014 at 07:46 PM. Reason: typo
Old 12-14-2014, 06:30 PM
  #972  
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Well, that's racing. Sorry man! This is a perfect example to folks who don't race these cars, of just how tough racing is on engines. What's next for the car?
Old 12-14-2014, 09:28 PM
  #973  
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I'm so sorry my friend. Not going to speculate
Old 12-14-2014, 11:42 PM
  #974  
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Oh man thats a bummer!
Old 12-14-2014, 11:53 PM
  #975  
rlm328
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Something does look odd there. Nobody has ever said anything about that so I assumed it wasn't totally unusual and must have been to do with balancing the crank when it was done initially. Now I look at that and think it doesn't seem right. I'll ask some more questions.
It definitely looks like something ate your #4 counter balance. Might be your harmonics issue also.


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