Looks pretty solid to me! That was the thing you were aiming for i guess?

And thanks for the part number!

 

No problem, PM me before you buy them and let me know how much they're charging you..

I'll find out tomorrow how solid it gets. I don't want rock solid, but solid with slight movement

 

The mount is quite solid but wasn't fully dry so can't say 100% how it turned out.
The transaxel is in and shift linkage is all in.
So just waiting on the head and my motor will be back in!

 

I just saw this thread so I don't know what led up to it but you used architectural sealant in your transmission mount? Sikaflex? I hope I've understood properly, apologies if I joined the show late and misunderstood.

I'm not sure that it will prove very durable in an automotive application. My familiarity with it is limited to how it performs in a virtually static environment, where it is great. However applications in depths and widths over +/- 3/4" cause eventual cracking and failure, depending on the substrates it's attached to. Also, not sure it is capable of providing constant isolation in a mount. It is designed for slow constant expansion and contraction over a course of years. Not sudden jerking and extreme heat/cold cycling, as well as exposure to chemicals such as oil and perhaps gasoline.

Why not use urethane in that mount? Make sure it lasts?

 

Well it is a type of urethane and it has dried quite solid, so i hope it holds up.

 

Paulyy - Did you use this adapter?

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=BCS

 

Indeed i did. I also made a shim out of aluminium because the o-ring on the mount goes over it and wont seal. You'll see what i mean when you get it.

I recommend you get some sand paper 200 grit then 400 grit and sand the top and bottom a millimeter or so so the o-ring sticks out a little or it wont seal. I had this problem

Send me an email on what you're doing for the water line solution. Because I may have something for you...
paulilieski@gmail.com

 

Thanks mate

 

Not to much of an update, I've been looking for a head, i've found one but im waiting for it to be sent.
but i took the engine off the stand and put the flywheel and clutch on.

I'm thinking if the head isn't sent by the end of the week i'll just drop the engine in the car on the weekend and just wait for the head until it arrives. So i can have most sensors plugged in, exhaust all on, starter, clutch slave, fuel lines (mock it up with the old head) ect.

And a picture:
and yes it is a Spec clutch, It is a stage 3+ (full surface not 3/6 puck) semi aluminium Sachs PP (its noticeably lighter) and from reviews, it's near stock engagement, little chatter on break-in after so many miles it should be chatter free. the mustang guys love it, the holden vx-ve (pontiac gto/g8) love it and the 928 guys love it from what i've read so i hope its good!

 

Wauw that looks great! Now i'm wondering.. What's the price of on of those clutches?

 

Thanks!

I paid $1300 delivered. There are a lot of options on clutches and brands. do some research and you'll know what you want.
There is south bend, FRF, Spec, KEP and saches.

 

I see what you mean, the ATP adapter O rings are set too low! How thick was your aluminum shim? Does not look like I will need to grind a lot from the mount.

 

you dont need to take off a lot, just enough so they stick out.
My shim is 4mm IICR. all you need is an aluminium off cut thin enough so it wont flex and kink. don't go to thick or it'll raise the turbo giving you less clearance.

the mount will be funny, but the engine is out so it wouldn't be hard to see what you need to grind.

 

Thanks Paulyy!