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Hmmm, build progress...

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Old 02-23-2010, 11:10 PM
  #16  
gt37vgt
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yeh just because he raced them for years doesn't make him a good guy
Old 02-23-2010, 11:13 PM
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docwyte
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Ummmm.... Not sure how to answer that one. This is the shop owner where my car currently is getting worked on. He has a stellar reputation and knows 951's inside and out.
Old 02-23-2010, 11:32 PM
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Euro951
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Sorry to learn about your misfortunes.. I would hope the prev. owner didn't know about the problems on the car when he sold it.... Like you said, common 944 issues were found...
Old 02-23-2010, 11:35 PM
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docwyte
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The previous owner seemed to be a straight shooter and didn't drive the car very much.

The only good thing about this is the car is literally going to be 100% new mechanically when it's done and should be totally reliable for many years to come.
Old 02-24-2010, 10:27 AM
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docwyte
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Here are some pics of the progress. This is the balance shaft housing I believe.

See the large divots in the axles?

Doing the rod bearings...

Here's the engine bay without the motor
Old 02-24-2010, 11:35 AM
  #21  
lee101315
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Originally Posted by docwyte
The previous owner seemed to be a straight shooter and didn't drive the car very much.

The only good thing about this is the car is literally going to be 100% new mechanically when it's done and should be totally reliable for many years to come.
I would check the end play on the crank now that you have it out
Old 02-25-2010, 01:02 AM
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951Saga
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Looks like you have cast rods in there. Is that an M44/52 block?
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:39 AM
  #23  
docwyte
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That's the stock '89 951 engine.
Old 02-25-2010, 03:00 PM
  #24  
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You may want to check… that’s what I thought I had, turns out mine is a Porsche remaned ’86 block, (M44/51), with cast rods. The M44/52 is the correct block for ’89 and by chance fitted with cast or forged rods. Yours look cast to me is all I’m sayin.
Old 02-25-2010, 03:58 PM
  #25  
blown 944
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IMO if you are doing the TB, you should also do the HG and cam tower gaskets.

They look like cast rods to me too. It would be a good idea IMO to pull the head and make sure it isn't an NA shortblock
Old 02-25-2010, 04:06 PM
  #26  
Oddjob
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Factory changed over to cast rods on the mid to late production MY89 Turbos.

Whats the last 4 of the VIN, mfg date, or code on the block?
Old 02-25-2010, 05:39 PM
  #27  
docwyte
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Beats me, how can you tell they're cast rods from the picture? It's the original motor to the car though. I'm not resealing this entire motor for giggles. The head gasket and cam tower gaskets are fine, spending enough right now. Gotta control project creep.
Old 02-25-2010, 06:31 PM
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Project creep control?! This is a 21 year old Porsche! BTDT and I utterly failed to control project creep! Sorry to see you have had some surprises with this one. Did the shop that performed the PPI have any 944 experience? If the clutch worked well and was quiet I can see missing the guide tube, but the rest of it should have been discovered.

+951 on the really cool trolley. Too bad you could not use it with jackstands. It does give me some ideas though.
Old 02-25-2010, 06:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by docwyte
Beats me, how can you tell they're cast rods from the picture? It's the original motor to the car though. I'm not resealing this entire motor for giggles. The head gasket and cam tower gaskets are fine, spending enough right now. Gotta control project creep.
the seams on the caps are very narrow indicative of cast items vs either no casting marks or much wider seams on forged.

I was just thinking that considering it was out, and you were having the TB done, that it is a perfect time to change the HG. Really shouldn't be that much more $$. I'd ask anyway.
The HG's on these cars deteriorate and before you know it you'll have to change it and take a chance on a warped mating surface.

Just my .02
Old 02-25-2010, 08:58 PM
  #30  
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It is a /52 engine, and it did have the 'cast' (I call 'em 968) rods. Oddly enough my real 968 Turbo RS engine had those rods too.

Thanks for the comments on the stand. I built it back when I was doing 951 engines a couple times a month. I came to the conclusion that pulling the trans out and torque tube back, then dropping the engine out the bottom was the fastest and easiest engine removal procedure.

Chris Cervelli
Spline Technologies


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