My norwegian track car
#106
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I wrote wrong earlyer. Its the resistance range that can be calibrated by the haltech software. dont know if it helps.
Do you have any experience in this?
would the haltech tps work? they use a D shaft. from haltech.com:
"The Haltech TPS connects to the throttle shaft via a D shaft keyway."
I have actually just bought a late NA cam, 9R. I know I loose top end power.. but I hope the intake will move enough power UP! response and quick spoolup is more importent! Tim at SFR is gonna put together a pretty nice turbo too..
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thanks for info! but take the oil gauge for example. the stock oil pressure sensor is wired to DME..? then it goes from DME to the 14 pin connector? and ends at the oil gauge.. aren't all gauges, rpm++ controlled from DME? the rpm is ok, ECU got a output for tachometers. its the gauges that is confusing me. how do I wire it up?
I mean, can I just wire the oil pressure sensor directly to the oil gauge, thru the 14 pin?
there are two water temp sensors stock.. one is for DME I think.. the other one(with 2 male pins), it that for the water gauge?
14 pin connector:
6 - oil gauge ----------- how to wire?
7-ignition lock ----------- is this needed?
8- water gauge ----------- how to wire?
9 - oil light ----------- how to wire?
10 - water light ------ ----- how to wire?
11- turbo temp sensor ---------- dont need it!
if someone knows what the rest of the pins on the connector are for, please tell me![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thanks
Stian M
I mean, can I just wire the oil pressure sensor directly to the oil gauge, thru the 14 pin?
there are two water temp sensors stock.. one is for DME I think.. the other one(with 2 male pins), it that for the water gauge?
14 pin connector:
6 - oil gauge ----------- how to wire?
7-ignition lock ----------- is this needed?
8- water gauge ----------- how to wire?
9 - oil light ----------- how to wire?
10 - water light ------ ----- how to wire?
11- turbo temp sensor ---------- dont need it!
if someone knows what the rest of the pins on the connector are for, please tell me
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thanks
Stian M
The wires listed above go from the sensors directly to the dash - so if you want to rewire the engine harness you can run from the 14 pin connector to the sensors. The only gauges controlled by the DME are the Tach and the boost gauge.
Thee is a second water temp sender just for the DME (with the fuel injector type connector). You can reuse that for your stand alone.
#108
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Just viewing the pictures of your cage. The diagonal cross bar on the main hoop. It appears to be facing a different angle than required by the SCCA - Different there?
And I use the stock TPS sensor with MoTeC.
And I use the stock TPS sensor with MoTeC.
#109
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The stock TPS might not work well Electromotive standalone's that seem to only accept GM type sensors and actuators. But on other more flexible systems it works fine. I've personally used it on Tatech, DTA and Link standalone's so I'm sure it will work on Haltech as well.
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Electromotive will work with just about any sensors, the ncie part about the GM sensors is that they are off the shelf items at any parts store.
#111
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The stock TPS will work with the Electromotive stuff....just not the best solution! I use the rate of throttle opening to tunethe acceleration enrichement and due to the decreased resistance range of the stock TPS the resolution is lower than the 'typical' TPS (I use Bosch D shaft TPS - oddly enough the cheapest source is Motec!)
Since tps movement usually is measured in percent (0-100%) the resistance range only needs to be 100 ohm to give enough resolution. Because IMHO it's practically impossible to change the pedal posistion in as small as 1% increments.
Or are we talking about different things?
That's a good reason. Same goes in Europe for Bosch sensors.
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I'm not trying to pick on you, but I don't understand how the resistance range on the stock tps can be too narrow?
Since tps movement usually is measured in percent (0-100%) the resistance range only needs to be 100 ohm to give enough resolution. Because IMHO it's practically impossible to change the pedal posistion in as small as 1% increments.
Or are we talking about different things?
Since tps movement usually is measured in percent (0-100%) the resistance range only needs to be 100 ohm to give enough resolution. Because IMHO it's practically impossible to change the pedal posistion in as small as 1% increments.
Or are we talking about different things?
One of the big benefits of going to a stand alone system is new wiring and sensors, if I am going to replace the TPS I might as well go with a different part - one that can be easily sourced and does not have the dreaded Porsche price tag!
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thanks for all help
I now know how to wire up the rest! I will try the stock tps.
95ONE: we do not have any requierments that the diagonal cross bar should be a diffent angle.. that is under both racing and drifting rules. my cage is buildt under all NBF rules. strange that the SCCA got other rules..
most cars over here got the diagonal bar like this.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
95ONE: we do not have any requierments that the diagonal cross bar should be a diffent angle.. that is under both racing and drifting rules. my cage is buildt under all NBF rules. strange that the SCCA got other rules..
most cars over here got the diagonal bar like this.
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just a quick question.
the cam tower oil feed in the red circle. I have noticed that some heads have the "retrictor?" , and someone don't.. my NA head, do not have it. its just a open hole.. and my stock 951 head do..
what does that part do, is it needed? can it be bought? is it really a restrictor?
my NA head
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01303ny.jpg)
my 951 head
the cam tower oil feed in the red circle. I have noticed that some heads have the "retrictor?" , and someone don't.. my NA head, do not have it. its just a open hole.. and my stock 951 head do..
what does that part do, is it needed? can it be bought? is it really a restrictor?
my NA head
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01303ny.jpg)
my 951 head
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC00567.jpg)
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here is a little update on my project!
I have been struggling these last months to make my 60-2 trigger wheel to work. didn't happen, I tried everything! So now I mounted a 36-1 trigger wheel, ford vr sensor with MSD reluctor adapter-turns the signal into hall/square wawe, 4 MSD ls1 coils and some new iridium plugs, and everything works perfect![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
the problem with the 60-2 wheel was that the engine cut at 5700rpm. the 5" wheel was too small with 60 tooth, and I got a pickup issue. and tried both reluctor/vr and 3 diffrent hall sensors. the car was on a rototest to tune my engine, when we noticed that the engine cut at 5700rpm. because of that, we only run 1.2bar, witch is the smallest amount of boost with the wg.
here are some pics of the car, after a weekend on the track in rain
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01539.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01543.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01544.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01553.jpg)
engine!
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01545.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01546.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01547.jpg)
the four LS1 coil, whitch does a very good job! I got three time stronger ignition than with the 2x doble coils. and its needed, because E85 and high boost needs a strong spark1
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01554.jpg)
here is a pic of the dyno chart(rototest), with 1.2bar and engine cut at 5700rpm. here I used the old doble coils, not the ls1. together with 60-2 trigger wheel. the tuner also didnt get the ignition maps right, because of the 60-2 wheel. plus the adjustable cam gear is not touched.
so it should be fun dyno it with more boost, and a ignition system that works! I'm planning to set the boost up to around 1.7bar, on next dyno
all number are hp and nm at the wheels
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01551.jpg)
with the hp curve moving in that direction, I should have seen 440-450whp, at 1.2bar. not bad with stock headers and NA cam
and I got 1.2bar at 3200rpm!
I have been struggling these last months to make my 60-2 trigger wheel to work. didn't happen, I tried everything! So now I mounted a 36-1 trigger wheel, ford vr sensor with MSD reluctor adapter-turns the signal into hall/square wawe, 4 MSD ls1 coils and some new iridium plugs, and everything works perfect
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
the problem with the 60-2 wheel was that the engine cut at 5700rpm. the 5" wheel was too small with 60 tooth, and I got a pickup issue. and tried both reluctor/vr and 3 diffrent hall sensors. the car was on a rototest to tune my engine, when we noticed that the engine cut at 5700rpm. because of that, we only run 1.2bar, witch is the smallest amount of boost with the wg.
here are some pics of the car, after a weekend on the track in rain
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01539.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01543.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01544.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01553.jpg)
engine!
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01545.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01546.jpg)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01547.jpg)
the four LS1 coil, whitch does a very good job! I got three time stronger ignition than with the 2x doble coils. and its needed, because E85 and high boost needs a strong spark1
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01554.jpg)
here is a pic of the dyno chart(rototest), with 1.2bar and engine cut at 5700rpm. here I used the old doble coils, not the ls1. together with 60-2 trigger wheel. the tuner also didnt get the ignition maps right, because of the 60-2 wheel. plus the adjustable cam gear is not touched.
so it should be fun dyno it with more boost, and a ignition system that works! I'm planning to set the boost up to around 1.7bar, on next dyno
all number are hp and nm at the wheels
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01551.jpg)
with the hp curve moving in that direction, I should have seen 440-450whp, at 1.2bar. not bad with stock headers and NA cam
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j222/c20let_2006/DSC01552.jpg)
#120
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