gt37vgt

with my modest ported motor with small turbo upgrade and 3" the upgrade to the NA cam made the car better at all boost levels and the turbo would just spool better on part throttle the car has more torque off boost and at low boost start with the NA it is definatly an upgrade with no draw backs and cost all most nothing hopfully I'll get my car running with the web cam soon and i can offer a better opinion

guards red 951

sounds very good, gt37vgt! the NA cam is in deed a great upgrade.. but when I'm aiming 450whp(maybe more), the cam may get a little too small...
If I understand it right, the NA cam has 8 more ehaust duration, and 1mm more exh lift. it will help some, but maybe not enought.
I would need a lot more boost, with a stock cam, to reach that hp level.. than if I have a 272 cam. I think I choose a 272deg cam

I'm planning to weld in a oil pan baffle.. will this help regarding oil starvation on hard cornering? any experiences?

gt37vgt

well I can't say for sure but i will be doing all those little things along with and extra half a litlre of oil also weld a little extension on the pick up and earlier threads sujjested that keeping a close eye on oil temps helped ovide the drama I have also given the oil drain back a bit of port job also in the later 3.0 engine put windows or increased the windows from the out 2 to the inner 2 cylinders to equalize the pumping effect from the piston movement yeh you probably do want more cam but the NA will serve well until do get a few better assesmants.

guards red 951

what do you mean by extra half a litre of oil? yeah, I will weld the extension on the pick-up. it was included in the kit.

gt37vgt

I mean put half a liter more than the factory manual says or i think 1/4 inch above the high mark on the dip stick .I think i will try to take the baffle idea i little further with 2 or 3 of them

guards red 951

I am now terminating the wiring harness for my Haltech E6X.. injectors are ready, I wired it in batch mode, one channel per inj.. ignition module, water temp, intake air temp, idle stepper motor are also done.

but regarding tps. there is now way I can use the stock 951 one? diffrent volt potentiometer?

and what do I do with RPM, can I use the 951 tachometer? how should I wire it up. from the coils? I have a red 4 wire connector, the one for RPM and boost. this connector is inside the car, main harness.. should this be used? the haltech got a aux output, that can give techometers a signal from both coils.

what about stock speedometer, this isn't messed up when converting to standalone?

and there is a 14 terminal main connector, in the engine bay. on fire wall, driver side. is this connector useless? but terminal number 7 is for ignition lock, connected to terminal 50 on ignition switch. is this needed?

hope you can help me out.

Duke

TPS - stock 951 works, easy to check what pins to use with a multimeter.
Speedo - hooked up mechanically through the tranny so it won't be affected
RPM - connect your Haltech tacho output to pin 2 - Green/Black - of the 4x1 pin block connector near the stock computers.

I like to use the 14 pin main connector for the majority of the stock stuff. Some pins are needed by the EMS and some pins are used to hook up gauges.

strandolph

TPS: Why can't you use the stock? You need a different voltage range for input to the E6X? Different voltage in should equal different voltage out. Some TPS info on Arnnworx's site: http://www.arnnworx.com/tps-repair.htm

Oil pan: Are you planning to use a crank scraper? http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Porsche.html

guards red 951

thanks a lot, Duke! I figured it out, with the TPS.
nice, was a little worried that I had to buy a BIG ugly tachometer! I like the stock meter

regarding the 14 pin main connector. witch pins are needed by the EMS? what gauges are connected to the 14 pin connector? how did you wire up your 14 pin connector?

guards red 951

thanks for the link, info on the 951 tps is great! I hope it works out with the stock tps.. I see in the haltech manual that tps and ecu dont have to have the same voltage range. it can be calibrated in the software on most cases.. but I dont know much about these things.

No, I only go for the baffle weld in kit for this time.. looks like a great product tough!

Chris White

That will just make sure that the oil in the sump hits the crank under braking causing a great deal of aeration.

Don't go over the high mark unless you like lubricating your engine with foam....

Chris White

All engine gauges run through the 14 pin connector.

6 - oil gauge
8- water gauge
9 - oil light
10 - water light
11- turbo temp sensor

other uesful stuff there too!

Chris White

BTW - the early NA cam is the same as the turbo cam. NA cam grinds changed in 85.5 (but not by much!)

Chris White

Good luck with the stock TPS, I have found that the resistance range and rate of change does not work well with stand alones. D shaft TPS with an adapter works better.

guards red 951

thanks for info! but take the oil gauge for example. the stock oil pressure sensor is wired to DME..? then it goes from DME to the 14 pin connector? and ends at the oil gauge.. aren't all gauges, rpm++ controlled from DME? the rpm is ok, ECU got a output for tachometers. its the gauges that is confusing me. how do I wire it up?
I mean, can I just wire the oil pressure sensor directly to the oil gauge, thru the 14 pin?

there are two water temp sensors stock.. one is for DME I think.. the other one(with 2 male pins), it that for the water gauge?


14 pin connector:

6 - oil gauge ----------- how to wire?
7-ignition lock ----------- is this needed?
8- water gauge ----------- how to wire?
9 - oil light ----------- how to wire?
10 - water light ------ ----- how to wire?
11- turbo temp sensor ---------- dont need it!

if someone knows what the rest of the pins on the connector are for, please tell me


thanks
Stian M