My norwegian track car
#61
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Don't be in denial like I was for so long.
Just go change BOV to a recirc one. Pay someone to make a new one.
Its going to stall constantly while you're drifting. Or just deal with it as you have been. But a large turbo and stalling with atmospheric BOV are going to make your drifting extremely tough. Late in the season or not. It needs to be changed right now do do anything competitive.
A beautiful creation none the less
Just go change BOV to a recirc one. Pay someone to make a new one.
Its going to stall constantly while you're drifting. Or just deal with it as you have been. But a large turbo and stalling with atmospheric BOV are going to make your drifting extremely tough. Late in the season or not. It needs to be changed right now do do anything competitive.
A beautiful creation none the less
I am not in denial I'm going to get a stand alone system, not only because of map sensor. but because of all the endless functions of ignition, fuel, antilag, tuning abilities+++ every race engine should have a good engine management system!
but I agree that I should have changed to resirc bov NOW. cuz the season is not ended before late september.. money is the problem though!
if I have enough speed, the engine doesn't die out.. but then again thats a problem with these small tracks here in norway!
yep, it isn't easy. the super 65 is too slow! most power come over 3500rpm, and very drastic! if I'm not aware of that, the car spin out at once! so woudn't mind a little more kind curve!!
thanks for compliment
#62
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nice! where in sweden is that? do they have a homepage?
was planing on full sequential ignition. that is one coil for each cylinder right?
VEMS seems to be a very good Management System.
I can install the system myself, I would like to learn that. also making crank and cam trigger. any ideas where to make that?
oooor is it pure hell installing it with not much experience..?
but the mapping is a job for the experts.. your friends know the VEMS, ragarding mapping and possible problem issues??
VEMS would be a lot cheaper than TEC3, but maybe I have to make more custom solutions.
what are your engine plans, anders? are you going to use VEMS?
sorry Olli, no more piggyback on me.
was planing on full sequential ignition. that is one coil for each cylinder right?
VEMS seems to be a very good Management System.
I can install the system myself, I would like to learn that. also making crank and cam trigger. any ideas where to make that?
oooor is it pure hell installing it with not much experience..?
but the mapping is a job for the experts.. your friends know the VEMS, ragarding mapping and possible problem issues??
VEMS would be a lot cheaper than TEC3, but maybe I have to make more custom solutions.
what are your engine plans, anders? are you going to use VEMS?
sorry Olli, no more piggyback on me.
I kinda bought a V8 will run stock ecu to pass emissions and get it approved here(hopefully) but then of course mod it, if (when) I decide to go and give it boost I will have to rethink engine mgmt, with that said, gm's stuff is actually pretty good, and adustable. the 944 stock stuff is NOT
I ran vems on my turbo bmw.
the guy I talked about lives in gøteborg, sweden, very very good guy
you can buy a 968 spec? or whoever has it flywheel, with 60-2 trigger. that helps a lot.
I have a brand new tialsport GT30R btw laying around, that kills your turbo on spool... I won't be using it since I bought the v8. call me some day.
#63
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cool! that's gonna kick ***!! will try to contact the PCN admin again, so I can enter the forum. I miss it
okey, thanks for the tips. I will figure it out...
ohhh, me want that turbo I'll call you!
okey, thanks for the tips. I will figure it out...
ohhh, me want that turbo I'll call you!
#65
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what are your engine spec? I think if a had a better spoolin turbo, it would be much better. because it only stall when I get in low speed and RPM, while I pump the trottle in and out, and my turbo is too slow building boost and it dies.
and it's only when I'm trying to drift, stalling is a issue..
so if you use your car for racing, it shoulden't be a problem.
and it's only when I'm trying to drift, stalling is a issue..
so if you use your car for racing, it shoulden't be a problem.
#66
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some pics from a trackday event two days ago..
the car is working quite good now, the car did not stop one time. and I had a really good time
not often you see 951 like this, haha!!
too soft in the rear end!!! the bilstein escort cup is not made for this
a little too much smoke!
the car is working quite good now, the car did not stop one time. and I had a really good time
not often you see 951 like this, haha!!
too soft in the rear end!!! the bilstein escort cup is not made for this
a little too much smoke!
#68
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I am trying to figure out what new parts I need for my engine rebuild. I am going to use my JE pistons and pauter rod over again, as they took no damage. I will send the block for bore, to fit the 100.5mm pistons.
but when I see the bearing that I used with the block that cracked, some parts of the coating is worn out. I cant feel anything with my finger, it is as smooth as new. its just the stock coating, that is worn out, to maybe up to a quarter of the bearing at the most. It is like this on the bearings for the rod too..
this is standard bearings, stanard size. I also measured all bearings to crank, with the yellow measure line(damn thats bad english), and used bearing lube.
is this really bad? should I buy new bearings? or is it supose to happen..?
after I started my engine june this year, after last rebuild. I drove nice and slow for 200km, and changed oil 4 times to get all debris out.
the rest you all know, I deliverd the car for tuning at a roto test. and then my block cracked because of missing water.
I could easy turn the crank, after that happend. so the pistons didnt stuck in the cylinders.
but when I see the bearing that I used with the block that cracked, some parts of the coating is worn out. I cant feel anything with my finger, it is as smooth as new. its just the stock coating, that is worn out, to maybe up to a quarter of the bearing at the most. It is like this on the bearings for the rod too..
this is standard bearings, stanard size. I also measured all bearings to crank, with the yellow measure line(damn thats bad english), and used bearing lube.
is this really bad? should I buy new bearings? or is it supose to happen..?
after I started my engine june this year, after last rebuild. I drove nice and slow for 200km, and changed oil 4 times to get all debris out.
the rest you all know, I deliverd the car for tuning at a roto test. and then my block cracked because of missing water.
I could easy turn the crank, after that happend. so the pistons didnt stuck in the cylinders.
#69
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Sorry for my lazyness, but what do you use to avoid oil starvation in high G's and what sort of oil do you use?
#70
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I use the stock oil pan baffle, nothing else.. what else can I use, LR weld in baffle kit?
But with that engine I didnt get high G's, because I drove very slow.
at those 200km, I used cheap oil. because I was changing oil so often. shoulden't be a problem, many other use cheap oil at first startup, and a bit after on.
at the dyno, I used castrol 10w-60 edge.
But with that engine I didnt get high G's, because I drove very slow.
at those 200km, I used cheap oil. because I was changing oil so often. shoulden't be a problem, many other use cheap oil at first startup, and a bit after on.
at the dyno, I used castrol 10w-60 edge.
#72
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I use the stock oil pan baffle, nothing else.. what else can I use, LR weld in baffle kit?
But with that engine I didnt get high G's, because I drove very slow.
at those 200km, I used cheap oil. because I was changing oil so often. shoulden't be a problem, many other use cheap oil at first startup, and a bit after on.
at the dyno, I used castrol 10w-60 edge.
But with that engine I didnt get high G's, because I drove very slow.
at those 200km, I used cheap oil. because I was changing oil so often. shoulden't be a problem, many other use cheap oil at first startup, and a bit after on.
at the dyno, I used castrol 10w-60 edge.
#75
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So my cracked block, JE and Pauter parts, bearings that belongs to the cracked block, balanced crack, all that is not been used since early june before dyno...
I didn't even have high rpm with it, before it was on the dyno..
so oil starvation is not possible!
So how did the bearing coat wear out??
glad you like the photos! here are some new ones..
laying some smoke over my friends nissan s14.5
ALL THIS!!!
Twisted around this!
Witch resulted in this, a broken 10mmx1-3AN adpter. and lost all my brakes, since I din't get any pressure on the cylinder for front brakes, as my rear brake cylinder just went to the floor. damn you Tilton
the abusing is over for this time.