WARNING - KEP STAGE 2
#16
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I always thought the kep I with either the six puck or the 930 disk was sufficient for our cars but nobody listens to me only to the tool.
Last edited by lart951; 01-28-2008 at 06:24 PM.
#20
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+1, it's what I like. Any larger decent auto parts store should have it and and industrial supply house too.
clean the part good, then clean it with laquer thinner unless the kit has a wipe. You spray on the dye (mostly white) then you spray on the penetrant or crack finder(mostly red or an orange tint). If you see a definitive line in the suspect area, time to get a new one. In an industrial application with a critical part, you would then have it Mag Patical Inpsected or x-rayed.
clean the part good, then clean it with laquer thinner unless the kit has a wipe. You spray on the dye (mostly white) then you spray on the penetrant or crack finder(mostly red or an orange tint). If you see a definitive line in the suspect area, time to get a new one. In an industrial application with a critical part, you would then have it Mag Patical Inpsected or x-rayed.
#22
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I have the stage 1 and had it in for about 10,000 miles. It came out due to a noise, a rattle and vibration at higher rpm. The problem was the guide collar had broken off its base. The KEP Stage 1 looks fine.
I am using a South Bend dual friction disc which also looks good. I will replace the fork and look at the clutch spring very closely.
Thanks for the heads up ST
I am using a South Bend dual friction disc which also looks good. I will replace the fork and look at the clutch spring very closely.
Thanks for the heads up ST
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So what's the advise if we are about to install one? I assume the crack finder process is on a used item?
#26
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It is sort of sounding like DON'T. But what do you do. Since mine is apart right now even though it is only a stage I , I am thinking the same thing you are. With the stage I and the disc I have South Bend said the torque capability should be in the 600+ range, but are the stage I PP any more reliable?
#27
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ST, did you have clutch slipping problems or saw the problem during one of your engine removal sessions ?
I had a stock PP crack (causing clutch slippage) that is why I went to the KEP 2, 55 k miles all is well that I know of.
I had a stock PP crack (causing clutch slippage) that is why I went to the KEP 2, 55 k miles all is well that I know of.
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Has there been anything to suggest a quality control issue? Why would the manu process change?