WARNING - KEP STAGE 2
08-28-2008, 07:25 PM
#91
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I am going through this now with Markus. Just locating a used fork. He likes used ones as it allows him to just build on it rather than working a new one back to where he can start strengthening it.
Seems to me that there is a gap in the market for someone to design and build an improved version?? Who here wouldn't pay for an uprated product?
Seems to me that there is a gap in the market for someone to design and build an improved version?? Who here wouldn't pay for an uprated product?
08-29-2008, 11:24 AM
#92
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Someone may be developing something on this soon...so I heard...a nice forged piece that will be much stronger than the stock cast part.
08-29-2008, 01:11 PM
#93
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The stage 2 is too stiff.
You will encounter failed hydraulic systems, severely shortened thrust bearing life, broken forks and broken plates themselves.
All of the above, I have experienced.
These are the facts - you must weigh if they are worth it to you.
We will expect KEP to defend their own products, but choose carefully the motives of the people whom you will believe.
You will encounter failed hydraulic systems, severely shortened thrust bearing life, broken forks and broken plates themselves.
All of the above, I have experienced.
These are the facts - you must weigh if they are worth it to you.
We will expect KEP to defend their own products, but choose carefully the motives of the people whom you will believe.
08-29-2008, 01:25 PM
#94
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08-30-2008, 02:10 AM
#95
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I also lost a clutch fork with the stock setup. I have been runnin a Spec stage 3+ with a brand new fork at install and so far so good 3 years on street/track use. I do get a chatter from the clutch after sum time on the track when i try to ride on the street again but it clears up in a few miles. Sorry to hear bout your luck ST the clutch work on the cars is what i hate doin the most! So are you goin to run kep again or go with a different brand?
08-30-2008, 02:17 AM
#96
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08-30-2008, 04:17 AM
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08-30-2008, 06:20 AM
#98
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09-02-2008, 05:52 PM
#99
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When I rebuilt my engine, I remplace the original clutch by kepII + 930 disc.
To prevent fork break, I change it for a new one with a new axle and new bearing, I also replace hydrolic system to prevent leaking.
I don't know if it's enough, I've only made 3000km since ;-)
To prevent fork break, I change it for a new one with a new axle and new bearing, I also replace hydrolic system to prevent leaking.
I don't know if it's enough, I've only made 3000km since ;-)
09-02-2008, 08:50 PM
#100
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09-02-2008, 11:31 PM
#101
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Any eta on this Stephen?
09-25-2008, 01:42 PM
#103
Time to resurrect this thread again 
I'm about to change out my Cup clutch as it can no longer cope with the torque from my 3.2 engine.
I was about to go with the time honoured 930 disk and KEP pressure plate but now that I've seen this thread I'm a little wary as I thought the only problem was with the Fidanza flywheel. What is the difference between the KEP 1 and the KEP 2? How heavy a pedal will I get with the KEP 1 and will it cope with circa 500 ftlbs. I think I had better get a new fork at the same time if this is the part that breaks
My car is mostly street but with regular track use so I don't want an overly heavy pedal
I'm about to change out my Cup clutch as it can no longer cope with the torque from my 3.2 engine.
I was about to go with the time honoured 930 disk and KEP pressure plate but now that I've seen this thread I'm a little wary as I thought the only problem was with the Fidanza flywheel. What is the difference between the KEP 1 and the KEP 2? How heavy a pedal will I get with the KEP 1 and will it cope with circa 500 ftlbs. I think I had better get a new fork at the same time if this is the part that breaks
My car is mostly street but with regular track use so I don't want an overly heavy pedal
09-25-2008, 09:39 PM
#104
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I have been running my KEP1 for ~ 1year and I think the pedal feel is ~60% stiffer. It is a noticeable difference. When I used to have my other 944 I would drive the two back to back and I would want to push the clutch pedal through the firewall on the non-KEP equipped 944.
The difference as I understand it from talking with Kennedy is that the KEP1 offers ~40% more torque holding capacity and the KEP2 offers ~60% more over stock.
500ft/lbs is no joke...I would consider a higher coefficient of friction disc and KEP1 or the 930 disc (or equiv) and the KEP2. You could perhaps look at what SACHS motorsports has inline for a 930 disc that is rated above OE performance. I have never seen anything for the 944 series in the SACHS motorsports catalog.
The difference as I understand it from talking with Kennedy is that the KEP1 offers ~40% more torque holding capacity and the KEP2 offers ~60% more over stock.
500ft/lbs is no joke...I would consider a higher coefficient of friction disc and KEP1 or the 930 disc (or equiv) and the KEP2. You could perhaps look at what SACHS motorsports has inline for a 930 disc that is rated above OE performance. I have never seen anything for the 944 series in the SACHS motorsports catalog.
09-27-2008, 04:36 PM
#105
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I have been running the Kep 1 with a South Bend disc. The disc is one side South Bends Feramic and the other side their organic lining. According to them this combination should be good for 700 ft lbs. I had to take it out due to rattle, which was a broken guide tube around 10,000 miles and the wear was essentially non existent. The KEP I has from what KEP told me around 3000# clamping force and this is what south Bend agreed with. Their Feramic material according to them has a coefficient of friction of .8. www.dxdracingclutches.com contact Andy Pyfer
I don't think I am making 500 ft-lbs but I do use the car for autox track days and the occasional day at the 1/4mile with mid 12s and 120mph trap speeds. The clutch has not been an issue since I put this combination in. On the drag strip I use the clutch a lot to get a decent launch. So my personal experience says if I were to do another clutch I would go with exactly what I have. The pedal effort didn't seem to change much for me and my prosche clutch is easier in traffic than my Audi S4 clutch is. In my opinion a new clutch fork is mandatory along with bearings and guide tube.
I don't think I am making 500 ft-lbs but I do use the car for autox track days and the occasional day at the 1/4mile with mid 12s and 120mph trap speeds. The clutch has not been an issue since I put this combination in. On the drag strip I use the clutch a lot to get a decent launch. So my personal experience says if I were to do another clutch I would go with exactly what I have. The pedal effort didn't seem to change much for me and my prosche clutch is easier in traffic than my Audi S4 clutch is. In my opinion a new clutch fork is mandatory along with bearings and guide tube.