WARNING - KEP STAGE 2
#76
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^Yep, +1?^
#77
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http://www.blaszakprecision.com/
He welds them up to strengthen them, and mods the fork and rod to install sintered bronze bushings into the fork. That gets rid of the crappy little needle bearings which is great as well. Costs about $125 total I think.
He welds them up to strengthen them, and mods the fork and rod to install sintered bronze bushings into the fork. That gets rid of the crappy little needle bearings which is great as well. Costs about $125 total I think.
#78
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So has it been confirmed that the issue lies entirely with the fork and is nothing inherently wrong with the KEP, other thank higher spring forces? A little R&R/improvement to the fork and I can rest easy?
I don't think there's anything wrong with the OEM needle bearings, they just need to be replaced after 20 years/150k miles. I got some replacement bearings by giving the old one to a bearing supplier, I think it was under $10 for the pair. Very easy to press out/in. My fork pivot pin was burnished in, so I just ground a new anti-rotation flat 180* away, giving the new needle bearings a new pivot pin surface that had seen zero force for the first half of its life.
As for strengthening the fork itself, I guess I'll just weld on some gussets. Anyone have any pictures of the Blaszak fork?
I don't think there's anything wrong with the OEM needle bearings, they just need to be replaced after 20 years/150k miles. I got some replacement bearings by giving the old one to a bearing supplier, I think it was under $10 for the pair. Very easy to press out/in. My fork pivot pin was burnished in, so I just ground a new anti-rotation flat 180* away, giving the new needle bearings a new pivot pin surface that had seen zero force for the first half of its life.
As for strengthening the fork itself, I guess I'll just weld on some gussets. Anyone have any pictures of the Blaszak fork?
#79
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when I removed the broken fork the needle bearings had scored into the rod causing little dimpled lines. I replaced the bearings 30K before the fork failure. I think the bushings are a good upgrade.
#80
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So has it been confirmed that the issue lies entirely with the fork and is nothing inherently wrong with the KEP, other thank higher spring forces? A little R&R/improvement to the fork and I can rest easy?
I don't think there's anything wrong with the OEM needle bearings, they just need to be replaced after 20 years/150k miles. I got some replacement bearings by giving the old one to a bearing supplier, I think it was under $10 for the pair. Very easy to press out/in. My fork pivot pin was burnished in, so I just ground a new anti-rotation flat 180* away, giving the new needle bearings a new pivot pin surface that had seen zero force for the first half of its life.
As for strengthening the fork itself, I guess I'll just weld on some gussets. Anyone have any pictures of the Blaszak fork?
I don't think there's anything wrong with the OEM needle bearings, they just need to be replaced after 20 years/150k miles. I got some replacement bearings by giving the old one to a bearing supplier, I think it was under $10 for the pair. Very easy to press out/in. My fork pivot pin was burnished in, so I just ground a new anti-rotation flat 180* away, giving the new needle bearings a new pivot pin surface that had seen zero force for the first half of its life.
As for strengthening the fork itself, I guess I'll just weld on some gussets. Anyone have any pictures of the Blaszak fork?
No.
The Kep plate is too much for it.
There is nothing wrong with the fork.
Did you think I was making a guess?
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#81
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Tool, my question is what is the root of the problem? Is it there something that could be physically wrong with my KEP Stg2 pplate, or are they all too stiff of a match for the fork? If thats the case, can I simply reinforce the fork and be good to go.
Your initial posts made it sound like there could be something wrong with the KEP either dimensionally or maybe structurally. But now it sounds like the KEP will hold up as long as I can keep the fork in one piece.
So I guess I can restate my questions:
1. What is the actual problem?
2. How can I tell if this problem applies to my parts?
3. What is the suggested fix?
Your initial posts made it sound like there could be something wrong with the KEP either dimensionally or maybe structurally. But now it sounds like the KEP will hold up as long as I can keep the fork in one piece.
So I guess I can restate my questions:
1. What is the actual problem?
2. How can I tell if this problem applies to my parts?
3. What is the suggested fix?
#82
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Tool, my question is what is the root of the problem? Is it there something that could be physically wrong with my KEP Stg2 pplate, or are they all too stiff of a match for the fork? If thats the case, can I simply reinforce the fork and be good to go.
Your initial posts made it sound like there could be something wrong with the KEP either dimensionally or maybe structurally. But now it sounds like the KEP will hold up as long as I can keep the fork in one piece.
So I guess I can restate my questions:
1. What is the actual problem?
2. How can I tell if this problem applies to my parts?
3. What is the suggested fix?
Your initial posts made it sound like there could be something wrong with the KEP either dimensionally or maybe structurally. But now it sounds like the KEP will hold up as long as I can keep the fork in one piece.
So I guess I can restate my questions:
1. What is the actual problem?
2. How can I tell if this problem applies to my parts?
3. What is the suggested fix?
The stage 2 is too stiff.
You will encounter failed hydraulic systems, severely shortened thrust bearing life, broken forks and broken plates themselves.
All of the above, I have experienced.
These are the facts - you must weigh if they are worth it to you.
We will expect KEP to defend their own products, but choose carefully the motives of the people whom you will believe.
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#83
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so ST, what other PP is going to work with the fork yet still give the same clamping force? Any? Is reinforcing the fork the only solution, in your opinion? What's the bottom line in your view? TIA
#84
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Tool, I'm not trying to discredit your experience, but what about the years of history of use with a huge number of owners on this forum? Until this thread, the KEP Stg2 PP + Cup/930 disc was the default "upgrade" setup. Nothing but praise from the users.
I definitely value your warning, but its one voice verses dozens of happy users. Isn't it possible your trouble was isolated to your car?
I definitely value your warning, but its one voice verses dozens of happy users. Isn't it possible your trouble was isolated to your car?
#85
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Same thing I saw with my broken fork. I cringed at putting the new fork in with new needle bearings but this was the only option available at the time. I do not believe the bearings were the cause of my fork failure as there was still little play and no binding however from the looks of them, it would not have been long before they would have failed.
#86
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Add to that list an overstressed weakened firewall where the clutch MC mounts. Mine already flexes way too much. My next clutch job I plan to reinforce this area.
#87
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My fork broke a few years back as well. I think it was with my 2.5 liter race motor. It's been a while. I'm not sure what pp I have but I don't think it's a KEP. I just replaced it and it's been good. Just my opinion but those forks go through a ton of stress every time you drive. Factor in the age of the fork itself. Things break. I think it could be made better for upgraded cars but sometimes the answer is that parts just wear out and the forks I can see wearing out faster than other parts with the amount of abuse they see.
#88
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I've emailed Markus and gotten no response. I think, after reading this thread, that I will replace my fork while the clutch is apart!
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