Rebirth of a racecar - project pics
#123
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just depends how everything goes - should be a matter of weeks. Haven't heard much from you lately - you'll definitely have to show us what yuo've been up to.
#124
Three Wheelin'
Skip-
I was considering driving it, but I just got in a wreck on Thursday evening and I am suffering from a very painful left shoulder/arm and a concussion. We will have to see, but I doubt that I will be physically able to do the DE by then.
Shane
I was considering driving it, but I just got in a wreck on Thursday evening and I am suffering from a very painful left shoulder/arm and a concussion. We will have to see, but I doubt that I will be physically able to do the DE by then.
Shane
#125
Drifting
Thread Starter
Finally got the interior painted and could get rid of all the tape and plastic - that took a year longer than it should. Fixed a couple problems - siezed steering u-joint, and had to helicoil an eccenric mount. On to the exhaust and eletrical.
Last edited by Skip Wolfe; 06-04-2008 at 12:50 AM.
#127
Drifting
Thread Starter
Been making fairly steady progress. Finished up most of the wiring today - still have a few Tec3 connects to make but that is about it. I ended up pulling most of the wiring Chris had done (sorry Chris) since there was a lot of extra wires - turn signals, power windows, etc - and put in an 8 circuit Painless race harness. Fabbed up a mounting bracket out of polyethylene and mounted it right under the Tec3 to make it accessible and easier to troubleshoot at the track. Also wired in a solenoid based batter cut-off switch that allows me to keep the disconnect that was already in the center of the dash as well as add a second disconnect on the outside of the car for easy corner worker access. A bit pricey, but very nice. Everything powered up nicely which is a good sense of accomplishment to see something actually turn on and work. Verified the fuel pump works by promptly pump fuel on my garage floor.
Also installed the Factory Tunes lighted gear and pulley set. Jeff was very helpful and made some custom spacers and modified the original acc pulley to accommodate the 3mm trigger wheel. Very nice stuff and it's amazing how much lighter it is.
Installed the Momo wheel with an NRG quick disconnect. Very nice disconnect and will only lock into place when the wheel is straight with no play.
Made the following list of things to do - at least it's getting shorter.
1 Attach fuel lines
2 Mount fuel pressure reuglator
3 connect oil lines
4 install exhaust hangers
5 install exhaust
6 install starter
7 final TEC3 wiring connections
8 install half shafts
9 have Turbo S spindles machined for charlie arms
10 install TS spindles
11 put together BBS wheels with new halves and mount tires
12 mount driver seat and harnesses
13 mount front splitter
14 mount header panel
15 paint header panel and headlight covers
16 install boost gauge
17 installl wideband gauge
18 install manual boost controller
19 install intake mani
20 install brake booster shield
21 install vacuum lines
22 install gas pedal
23 install window net
24 Align & corner balance
25 Dyno
Factory Tuned gear and pulley set
Finished wiring and dash shots. Need to get some better labels than the cheesy stickers I have now:
Also installed the Factory Tunes lighted gear and pulley set. Jeff was very helpful and made some custom spacers and modified the original acc pulley to accommodate the 3mm trigger wheel. Very nice stuff and it's amazing how much lighter it is.
Installed the Momo wheel with an NRG quick disconnect. Very nice disconnect and will only lock into place when the wheel is straight with no play.
Made the following list of things to do - at least it's getting shorter.
1 Attach fuel lines
2 Mount fuel pressure reuglator
3 connect oil lines
4 install exhaust hangers
5 install exhaust
6 install starter
7 final TEC3 wiring connections
8 install half shafts
9 have Turbo S spindles machined for charlie arms
10 install TS spindles
11 put together BBS wheels with new halves and mount tires
12 mount driver seat and harnesses
13 mount front splitter
14 mount header panel
15 paint header panel and headlight covers
16 install boost gauge
17 installl wideband gauge
18 install manual boost controller
19 install intake mani
20 install brake booster shield
21 install vacuum lines
22 install gas pedal
23 install window net
24 Align & corner balance
25 Dyno
Factory Tuned gear and pulley set
Finished wiring and dash shots. Need to get some better labels than the cheesy stickers I have now:
Last edited by Skip Wolfe; 06-23-2008 at 06:27 PM.
#128
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Norway
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hmm some ideas/views, shouldn't all weight be "within" axels ideally?
meaning cutting & welding the rear wheel well where your battery is now, and battery where right rear seat would be?
meaning cutting & welding the rear wheel well where your battery is now, and battery where right rear seat would be?
#129
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ideally yes, but I will be running a lightweight Odyssey or Braile battery and at 15 lbs I'm not going to worry about it - too many things to optimize first.
#130
Rennlist Member
Looking really good there Skip!! I'm jealous. Couple of questions. What do you intend re oil starvation prevention? Water and oil cooling? Exhaust size? Brakes, go with the BR's or BB's?
Great job.
Great job.
#131
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Patrick. One thing to keep in mind is that I am not shooting for crazy hp levels - only about 320 rwhp based on the class I will be in.
Oil starvation - at this point I don't have anything exotic to prevent oil starvation - just a low mileage rebuilt motor and baffled oil pan.
Cooling - I have the stock radiator and dual Setrab oil coolers tucked behind the fog light openeings.
Exhaust - stock downpipe, and the 3" cat bypass and exhaust, with a Tial 38 wg.
Brakes - 993 front calipers with stock rear, Hawk HT10 pads. I ran these brakes on my stock weight '87 with Hawk Blues and was very happy with the braking. HT10s are a bit more aggreissive than the Blues and the car is 600 lbs lighter than my '87 so it should be fine. The car is plumbed for ABS but I need to wire it - good project for next winter.
Oil starvation - at this point I don't have anything exotic to prevent oil starvation - just a low mileage rebuilt motor and baffled oil pan.
Cooling - I have the stock radiator and dual Setrab oil coolers tucked behind the fog light openeings.
Exhaust - stock downpipe, and the 3" cat bypass and exhaust, with a Tial 38 wg.
Brakes - 993 front calipers with stock rear, Hawk HT10 pads. I ran these brakes on my stock weight '87 with Hawk Blues and was very happy with the braking. HT10s are a bit more aggreissive than the Blues and the car is 600 lbs lighter than my '87 so it should be fine. The car is plumbed for ABS but I need to wire it - good project for next winter.
Last edited by Skip Wolfe; 06-23-2008 at 01:44 PM.
#132
Rennlist Member
Nice, a short list that's do'able. ...and ya may want to add one of those long pedals that's next to the brake.
I may have something for the labels... I got a label maker that can print white letters on clear. Haven't taken it out of the pack, but I'll let ya now how it works.
I may have something for the labels... I got a label maker that can print white letters on clear. Haven't taken it out of the pack, but I'll let ya now how it works.
#133
Rennlist Member
Well the power to weight should have you a really quick car with 320whp. Is the series largely governed by p to w?
#135
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm going to race in NASA's GTS series which is based on hp to weight.
There are five classes in GTS Challenge; GTS5, GTS4, GTS3, GTS2, and GTS1. All cars will be classed on a power to weight ratio. Based on dynamometer test results the ratio will be calculated as follows:
If max torque is less than maw RWHP: Car weight with driver divided by max RWHP (rear wheel horsepower) If max torque is greater than max RWHP: Car weight with driver divided by the average of max RWHP and max torque. The hp and torque of each dynamometer run will be averaged and then the dynamometer run with the highest average will be used in the weight to power ratio calculation:
D.O.T. Race Tires
GTSU = Non-Certified Cars — NO POINTS
GTS5 = 6.0 – 8.49
GTS4 = 8.5 – 10.99
GTS3 = 11.0 – 14.49
GTS2 = 14.50 – 18.49
GTS1 = 18.50 and higher
Non-D.O.T. Race Tires (slicks)
GTSU = Non-Certified Cars — NO POINTS
GTS5 = 6.5 – 8.99
GTS4 = 9.0 – 11.99
GTS3 = 12.0 – 15.99
GTS2 = 16.0 – 19.99
GTS1 = 20.0 and higher
I am targeting GTS4 so the car + me should weigh about 2700 lbs so to maintain the 8.5 ratio I would be limited to 317 hp.
Joe - what are you shooting at for weight at hp for the RSR?
There are five classes in GTS Challenge; GTS5, GTS4, GTS3, GTS2, and GTS1. All cars will be classed on a power to weight ratio. Based on dynamometer test results the ratio will be calculated as follows:
If max torque is less than maw RWHP: Car weight with driver divided by max RWHP (rear wheel horsepower) If max torque is greater than max RWHP: Car weight with driver divided by the average of max RWHP and max torque. The hp and torque of each dynamometer run will be averaged and then the dynamometer run with the highest average will be used in the weight to power ratio calculation:
D.O.T. Race Tires
GTSU = Non-Certified Cars — NO POINTS
GTS5 = 6.0 – 8.49
GTS4 = 8.5 – 10.99
GTS3 = 11.0 – 14.49
GTS2 = 14.50 – 18.49
GTS1 = 18.50 and higher
Non-D.O.T. Race Tires (slicks)
GTSU = Non-Certified Cars — NO POINTS
GTS5 = 6.5 – 8.99
GTS4 = 9.0 – 11.99
GTS3 = 12.0 – 15.99
GTS2 = 16.0 – 19.99
GTS1 = 20.0 and higher
I am targeting GTS4 so the car + me should weigh about 2700 lbs so to maintain the 8.5 ratio I would be limited to 317 hp.
Joe - what are you shooting at for weight at hp for the RSR?