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Lots of progress this weekend. Spent Saturday working on the interior, getting the Pod reinstalled and putting the new shifter boot in. About half way through the pod install process the horn started going off and wouldn't stop. I had been pushing up on one of the wiring harnesses under the pod and figured I had shorted something out by pinching it or pushing too hard on the harness. Pulled the fuse and figured something would come to me. Did some searches last night and shorted horn contacts popped up. Went back on Sunday, spun the wheel around with the horn fuse in and sure enough, horn sounds in a couple of positions. Pulled the fuse and will address later, at least I don't have to pull that confounded pod again!
Today I decided it was time to get dirty again. Started by locking the crank at 45 BTDC, the left cam was 3 teeth the timing mark, the left cam was 4. Since there would have been no way for someone to actually check their work on the last timing belt change, with the upside down balancer and all. My conclusion is that this car had been reassembled a tooth off.
I pulled the rest of the covers, the tensioner, water pump, belt, oil pump, bottom bracket, an cleaned everything up
I turned the corner from disassembly to reassembly by replacing the main seal, the old one was the source of the most major of the leaks, but I'm doing the oil pump seals to be safe. Had purchased a 25 pack of viton bolt o-rings last time I did one of these, hopefully I'll be able to find them
So the biggest worry I have is looking at the waterpump recess, there is a lip. Can one of the experts out there take a look and see what you think? The water pump I removed was not loose, and the recess is smooth not gouged? I think my S4 had some sort of coating on this surface and this one does not. Has this recess been bored out by a failed WP?
If the block is damaged, how much clearance is too much?
I dunno, that block looks like it got milled by the impeller, at least two impeller vanes were touching the block where there's rust. When you drained the coolant were there particulates in it?
I saw the same rust stain, the impeller from the current pump seemed to ride over the damage as it stained the high ridge (which it presumably would have just ground down). The impeller on the pump I pulled off has no noticeable play, my guess is the last pump was the culprit but anything is possible including the use of a $49 ebay water pump.
The milling is not very deep at all, the lower right in the pictures looks deeper because of the shadow. I'll try to get an accurate measurement tomorrow but I'd estimate it as the thickness of a credit card.
Yes, if there were any milling during this cycle of coolant, you'd expect it in your bucket. It doesn't look too bad but I've only seen a few milled block pictures on Rennlist.
Greg's measurement of impeller to block is 0.025", with a WP gasket in place, 0.005" with the WP mounted directly on the block- see post #1:
I've got a really nice "pulley stack" and A/C compressor in the parts hold here, from a 60K miles '89S4.
I also have 8 injectors, from the same, running car.
On our our '84 revival we had to do the whole fuel system - including pressure regulators. For the injectors I was able to restore/clean them using LPS#2, some LP air and 12Volts on/off. I got like 6/8 and had to buy a couple of them used.
Also for A/C you just need to fill with Red-Tek it's an all-in replacement for R12 or 134a too. I have used it in 3 cars (Audi TT's and Volvo XC90) and works great. http://redtek.com/English/product.asp?ID=18
Your waterpump/block looks fine. The pump operates a bit like a boat propellor so should have no problem throwing out enough circulation.
Trying to analyse photo's is always going to be a bit tricky but I noted some observations that may be pertinent to some extent:
1. The rust stains did not come from the casing so presumably this water pump has a steel impeller. I was under the impression that your model year was supplied with plastic impellers.
2. The pattern on the casing photo does tend to suggest a degree of in-situ machining but I would defer to the experts on that one.
3. Inspection of the pump photo shows what seems to be one impeller blade [10 O'clock position] where the inner edge is machined slightly. The blade at 6 O'clock appears to be polished along its entire length but this could be flash photography creating an illusion. The static rust stains appear to be consistent with the relative positions of those two blades I refer, with one stain indicating travel over the inner edge of the groove and that might be consistent with the blade that is "polished" at the inner most point.
If the impeller has migrated along the shaft slightly that might explain what we are seeing. Thus your comment about the cheapo Ebay Chinese pump might "hold water" if you will pardon the pun.
The impeller to volute [casing] clearances are critical to pump performance although "how much" renders the pump useless remains to be seen but likely not much at all. Thus the figure from the good Doctor of 25 thou with a gasket is about as much as I might have "guesstimated".
It will be interesting to see what others more knowledgable make of your photos- as Rob says superficially it is a bit questionable - hopefully it will still be serviceable given the volute face looks relatively clean.
Regarding your cam wheel photos is that where they were when the belt was on or is it possible the passenger side has jumped a tooth after the belt was removed? One the cams has a tendency to do this and I have a feeling it is the passenger side as I seem to remember.
Either way one tooth is not likely to have caused any mechanical issues based on list opinions.
Regarding your cam wheel photos is that where they were when the belt was on or is it possible the passenger side has jumped a tooth after the belt was removed? One the cams has a tendency to do this and I have a feeling it is the passenger side as I seem to remember.
Either way one tooth is not likely to have caused any mechanical issues based on list opinions.
Rgds
Fred
I have my suspicions they rotated, I was looking for the pictures I took with the TB still connected but couldn't find them. They may only exist in my past intentions.
I thought that when I locked at 45, the right side was dead on to expectations and the left was off by a tooth. I believe the pictures show the left side to be correct and the right one off by a tooth.
Anyway, long and short of it, I think its all good.
Congrats on a great find
02-05-2017, 09:37 PM
