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sounds like you had two issues going on at the same time. By having a relay plugged into the spot where the kick down relay (auto cars) goes, your car (manual), will not start. I also had the same issue as you with the injector leads...wire covers were disintegrating at the leads. Colin (lizard928) hooked me up with some new leads and i spliced them in (easy pizey)
The fix for your sunroof and window is to unplug the connectors in the picture (probably) that reside under the driver seat.
That’s just f/u right there. Worked like a charm, THANK YOU!
Now I’m off to ponder the philosophical issue of WTF use could it possibly be to have a connector (that looks like it *should* be connected) to lock the d/s window and sunroof operation together.
sounds like you had two issues going on at the same time. By having a relay plugged into the spot where the kick down relay (auto cars) goes, your car (manual), will not start. I also had the same issue as you with the injector leads...wire covers were disintegrating at the leads. Colin (lizard928) hooked me up with some new leads and i spliced them in (easy pizey)
yes, if I shove the injector “loops” under the cover, it looks like #1 or #2 starts shorting out. I carefully laid them out and allowed them to protrude from under the cover and all seems reliable.
Car is running and sounds great. Still leaking at that water bridge though. I was hoping that by cycling through a few heat cycles it might “seat” itself but no luck. Really not looking forward to trying to get at that bolt
that connector under the driver seat is only connected on cars without sunroof.
for car with a sunroof is disconnected. I think it has something to do with the door
key feature of closing window and SR. If the car does not have a sunroof it
communicates to the control unit to change the sequence of the close.
that connector under the driver seat is only connected on cars without sunroof.
for car with a sunroof is disconnected. I think it has something to do with the door
key feature of closing window and SR. If the car does not have a sunroof it
communicates to the control unit to change the sequence of the close.
That’s just f/u right there. Worked like a charm, THANK YOU!
Now I’m off to ponder the philosophical issue of WTF use could it possibly be to have a connector (that looks like it *should* be connected) to lock the d/s window and sunroof operation together.
Yes, when I plugged it in the problem you described occurred and from what I understand what merchauser has described is why it has to be connected when it has a sunroof delete. Agree, I wish they were all that simple.
Full Timing Belt Service: Gates timing belt, air-pump delete, Porken tensioner, both cam timing gears replaced, new oil pump gear, new hall sensor, Geba water pump, resealed oil pump, cap/rotor/wires, deep cleaning
Intake Refresh: new flappy valve bearings and diaphragm, new crank position sensor, new throttle position sensor, new Idle Stabilizer, new knock sensors, rebuilt MAF, thermostat, powder-coating, rebuilt fuel injectors, all new fuel lines regulator and dampers, temp sensor
Brakes: ceramic brakes, brake sensors, cleaned all ABS sensors and connectors, rebuilt clutch slave
Differential: drained and refilled differential, PSD bleed and inspection.
Steering: bleed and new power steering reservoir/filter
Body, lighting: 2 new Bosch foglight assemblies (ouch), new fog and driving bulbs. Minor paint chip touch up. Replacement of drivers side drip rail and door seal where PO's idiot pool guy tried to break into the car
Interior: LED upgrade to instruments and all interior lighting, lighted shift **** w leather boot
Concerns during this process included:
earlier in this thread there are pictures of some scoring from a previous water pump (less than thickness of credit card), i made the decision to install the new water pump instead of opening a whole other can of worms. Admittedly the hot weather is not here, but running temperatures have been spot on even during the most spirited of drives.
PSD kept throwing master alarms for "ABS off" and "differential control off" after a few minutes of driving, even after PSD bleed. Problem turned out to be crusty ABS sensor connections. PSD now tip-top, I'm amazed at how controllable the rear-end of this 928 is with PSD engaged
Thank you to everyone who offered advice during this process. It is difficult facing the cost of doing many of these jobs "right" but with the amount of labor it takes to complete them, it is worthwhile to bite the bullet and just replace the common failure items.
Last edited by mskar; 03-30-2018 at 03:18 AM.
Reason: additions to parts list
Looking back at a few previous posts... the water-bridge leak turned out to be a crappy replacement water-bridge o-ring coupled with a careless installation. I apparently ordered one and also had one from my engine gasket set. I'm not sure which one I put on first but it was visible thinner than the one I replaced it with and had caught and pinched when I initially installed it. While installing it I used a dremel to ensure that the waterbridge bolts and sensors grounded correctly. As good as the waterbridge looks powder-coated, and as easy as it is to clean the bolt head mating surfaces to bare metal to ensure contact, I'd make the decision to pc it again in a heartbeat. I know this flies in the face of the advice of some of the more experienced mechanics on the forum but my in my opinion as long as you recognize the potential for grounding issues and address them by ensuring a good path to ground through the mounting bolts, all is well.
11-16-2017, 01:01 PM
