Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Barn Find 91 GT

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-21-2017, 10:05 PM
  #166  
Mrmerlin
Team Owner
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 28,334
Received 2,494 Likes on 1,403 Posts
Default

that is a trigger for the Hall sensor thats bolted to the rear side of the cam tower housing,
put it back in or the computer will not be able to tell when the cam reaches TDC.
NOTE their is only one of these and its installed on the right side cam
Old 02-21-2017, 11:49 PM
  #167  
mskar
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mskar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 391
Received 56 Likes on 26 Posts
Default

Thanks Stan, with all the stupid that went into previous repairs I was worried someone "forgot" to put one of them back on!
Old 02-22-2017, 12:10 AM
  #168  
hwyrnr
Instructor
 
hwyrnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

What a great read. Keep up the good work. Awesome

James
Old 02-22-2017, 03:48 AM
  #169  
FredR
Rennlist Member
 
FredR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Oman
Posts: 9,849
Received 725 Likes on 581 Posts
Default

By the way if the Hall trigger is not working and/or the knock sensors you immediately kiss goodbye to 6 degrees of ignition advance across the board [not good].

Given your efforts to date removing the inlet manifold and doing what is necessary is common sense. If it is needed, refinishing of the inlet manifold and cam covers is also highly desirable/necessary at this stage in life and makes all the difference in the world presentation wise.

Of course the $$$'s are rolling but then I am sure you well understand this by now.

Rgds

Fred
Old 02-22-2017, 11:39 AM
  #170  
mskar
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mskar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 391
Received 56 Likes on 26 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by FredR
By the way if the Hall trigger is not working and/or the knock sensors you immediately kiss goodbye to 6 degrees of ignition advance across the board [not good].

Given your efforts to date removing the inlet manifold and doing what is necessary is common sense. If it is needed, refinishing of the inlet manifold and cam covers is also highly desirable/necessary at this stage in life and makes all the difference in the world presentation wise.

Of course the $$$'s are rolling but then I am sure you well understand this by now.

Rgds

Fred
Ugh, all too well.
Old 02-22-2017, 02:16 PM
  #171  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 339 Likes on 245 Posts
Default

Not paying too much attention, I've tried installing one on the driver side (left side) and physically it will not fit as casting from the head will interfere with the un needed trigger wheel/disk.
Old 02-22-2017, 05:57 PM
  #172  
odurandina
Team Owner
 
odurandina's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
Posts: 28,705
Received 212 Likes on 153 Posts
Default

did you all see this?

guy's wife discovers her husband's 928 was owned by George Harrison...

https://rennlist.com/articles/george...ed-to-auction/
Old 02-28-2017, 11:40 PM
  #173  
mskar
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mskar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 391
Received 56 Likes on 26 Posts
Default

Despite being down with the flu last week, I managed to finish pulling the intake on Saturday



With the manifold removed I was able to pull the water bridge and oil filler, looks like the most major oil leak was the breather hose that connects to the filler closest to the front of the car.













I believe at some point after my 84 Carrera was built Porsche started spec'ing Bavarian ear wax for all Amp connectors used in the engine compartment so the two knock sensors are the first of many that will be replaced. Every connector I touch degrades to paste as soon as its touched so I'm now in for a minimum of the Hall and CPS in addition to the two knock sensors already replaced.

The paint on the intake is worse than it appears in the pictures, it is delaminating in multiple places so I'll likely be disassembling it and sending it out for powder coating. Seems like the current recommendation is to fully degrease it inside and out before sending it off and then requesting that it be blasted with aluminum oxide. I'll do some additional reading before making the call but if anyone has any other recommendations please chime in!
Old 03-01-2017, 10:47 AM
  #174  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 339 Likes on 245 Posts
Default

Don't use aluminium oxide.
Old 03-01-2017, 10:55 AM
  #175  
docmirror
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
 
docmirror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
Posts: 19,831
Received 100 Likes on 65 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mskar
Seems like the current recommendation is to fully degrease it inside and out before sending it off and then requesting that it be blasted with aluminum oxide. I'll do some additional reading before making the call but if anyone has any other recommendations please chime in!
I would advise not blasting the intake with any media at all. Strip it by hand, with wire wheel, sanding, or whatever, but no media blasted to an intake at all, ever. Far too many engines destroyed by that method.
Old 03-01-2017, 10:57 AM
  #176  
docmirror
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
 
docmirror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
Posts: 19,831
Received 100 Likes on 65 Posts
Default

I hate to add to your task list, but now is a great time to repl the CPS in the rear of the asm, and also address all the fuel lines. Also find the right solution for the heater valve. They are all right there accessible now.
Old 03-01-2017, 11:03 AM
  #177  
mskar
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mskar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 391
Received 56 Likes on 26 Posts
Default

CPS is on the list, connector turned to crumbs. Will be sure to read up on the heater valve. Is there some sort of test or is this yet another throw away part?
Old 03-01-2017, 11:06 AM
  #178  
bureau13
Rennlist Member
 
bureau13's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: South Florida
Posts: 3,486
Received 57 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

You can use a mity-vac to test if the heater valve is opening and closing like it should. The other failure would be a leak, not sure how you would test for that with the car not running or not able to pressurize the cooling system. That being said, it's a very cheap part (I know, very cheap x LOTS is no longer very cheap, been there )
Old 03-01-2017, 11:28 AM
  #179  
docmirror
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
 
docmirror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
Posts: 19,831
Received 100 Likes on 65 Posts
Default

Ask Roger for the latest iteration of the heater valve. It really doesn't matter if the vac actuator works, it's the vane or solenoid inside the water path that often goes bad. I think the latest is we are using a solenoid type from a Ford Tbird, but Roger will have the latest scoop.
Old 03-01-2017, 08:54 PM
  #180  
mskar
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mskar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 391
Received 56 Likes on 26 Posts
Default

Thanks Guys, I received Roger's intake spreadsheet today. I'm going to do some additional disassembly this weekend and take an inventory of what I appear to need. I appreciate all of the feedback!


Quick Reply: Barn Find 91 GT



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 05:33 AM.