Mrmerlin

Hi Denny I wanted to point something out that could cause an issue.
In the last picture of post 126,
the new speedo gear still has flash on it,
see on the side face of the gear, this flash will jamb the gear that it rides against,
SO you need to take a nail file or some 400 grit paper and smooth this off.
NOTE check the new gears teeth for any burrs and smooth them out
Dont ask me how I know this...........BTDT

Nice restoration work BTW

depami

Thanks Stan. I saw that in the picture too and have already gone back and rectified the issue.

Cheers

depami

Ever since I got the car I could only make right turns because the left signal wouldn't cancel.
Well, I finally fixed it so now I can graduate from Any Which Way You Can to Every Which Way But Loose.
(Speaking of which, since today was 6-4, I put a couple hundred miles on the Scat Pack. Boy does that thing go loose easily!)
Anyway, turns out there was a slightly rounded edge on the actuating tab and that combined with a slight bevel worn onto the cancellation pawl, the pawl would get pushed out instead of up. A few swipes with a file on the actuating tab to create a crisp edge solved the problem.





Cheers

depami

A little off here and the multi-function switch tightens up as it should.

depami

Well that was fun!
Before I go any further I need to verify something:
With driver door open, no key in ignition, the door chime sounds when turn signal switch activated.
Is this normal, I don't remember, or did I screw something up?
Hopefully I won't need to take it all apart again.
Thanks in advance.





Cheers,

fiatrn

In my car (same year as yours)

Door Open
No Key
Interior lights come On
Moving the turn signal switch turns on the parking lights on that side
No Chimes

But I'm not sure I ever have any chimes.

depami

Or not!




Beyond repair.




I could make this one work even though it's a little long but I might have a shorter one so I'll keep looking.



Cheers,

depami

Blow me down!

Perfect fit and perfect spot for new clock inside temp probe (outside probe is in alternator hose).

Only thing is, beggers can't be choosy, and the 12-24V DC motor I used has a base RPM of 5600.
With full 12V as the schematics indicate, at least for an 86, it SCREAMS!
I don't imagine it needs a lot of RPMs as long as it's moving air across the thermistor.
Therefore I seriesed a 75 ohm resistor as that's as high as I could go and get reliable starts.
Current draw is about 70 mA with minimal noise and what I feel is adequate airflow.










Cheers,

depami

I don't imagine these parts to be available.
Anyone got a dead HVAC head with good teeth?

depami

40 ohms, that is.

Happen to have two 20 ohm that I managed to fit inside the case so the harness is unmodified.
While I did add an R component to the original LC noise filter, I don't think it will be a problem.




Cheers,

depami

If a dentist can glue a crown onto a tooth, why can't I glue a tooth onto a gear?
Holding now but who knows for how long. Time will tell.

depami

..... why oh why don't you work anymore?

Full of crud but forgot to record the evidence.
A minor challenge to assemble but a bit of dielectric grease to hold the cones in place did the trick.
Not only is it clean now, but it works.

depami

Ah, the hoops we jump through to keep these cars in order!



The mirrors worked .......... then they didn't.

A bit of investigation lead to this:



On the bright side, there may be some WYIT window regulator R&R entertainment in the near future.

Cheers,

depami

Give them all a good tug. If the insulation stretches, the conductor is broken.



Sometimes more than one place.



I prefer solder and heat shrink over butt splices. Hopefully they won't break where copper meets solder.



Cheers,

depami

I hope I can figure out where they all go!



Removal was required for a clean finish.



Cheers,