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Old 01-07-2013, 12:50 PM
  #46  
James Bailey
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two to one as with all 4 stroke engines...
Old 01-07-2013, 07:42 PM
  #47  
xschop
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Just like the 944, the 928 Torque tube flange hole is off at the driver's bottom. The 944 TT flange hole is off square at the top driver's side....I've always said these cars were made during Oktoberfest.

These are the auto TT dims that I got from Doz.... I updated the coupler dimensions in 1st post. Thanks John.

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Last edited by xschop; 01-07-2013 at 08:05 PM.
Old 02-03-2013, 08:43 PM
  #48  
xschop
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My OB-LS donor didn't come with and engine or a radiator....so...

What is this?....

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and this?.....




I did find a all-alloy radiator that fits perfect. Northern Radiator # 209628. I'll just have to make a bracket that holds down the top side by the radiator cap. I have welded bungs into these, but I think I'm going to keep the billet thermometer cap and rid the overflow tank on the passenger side....

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Ready for the LS powerplant....

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Last edited by xschop; 02-04-2013 at 02:58 AM.
Old 02-03-2013, 08:48 PM
  #49  
SeanR
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First looks like the radiator temp sensor harness at the radiator, the 2nd is the main power feed jump post that connects at the 14 pin connector, passenger side, just behind the radiator supports.
Old 02-04-2013, 03:01 PM
  #50  
xschop
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Where would it be found on the 928 wiring diagram?

This is what I found....

http://www.cannell.co.uk/_manuals/po...8_1978_cfd.pdf

And if there is a factory alarm module, where is it located?
Old 02-04-2013, 08:36 PM
  #51  
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Depends on year of the 928.

On the 84, there is an obscure jump post representation, without labeling as such, on the diagram for the front engine compartment electrics. And, further somewhat obscure reference that defines were it connects to the CE panel on the Central Electric diagram.

Give us the year you are working with.
Old 02-04-2013, 10:28 PM
  #52  
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78 on the title.... Vin # 9288200694
Hope it's not too rare as it's getting Xstra chopped....I have removed about 75lbs of crap already with the engine already gone....I have kept the brain (PCM) and nice washer reservoir if someone needs one just pay shipping, it's yours....tossed the charcoal canister and all AC parts along with 10lbs of road grime. The PO was my kinda guy....it has a newer looking dual exhaust (2.25) with an H-pipe and dual mufflers already....and NO CATS. Eric at TPC who has built a couple said it should be good for 350 RWHP which is what is going in the bay.
I see the fuze box has the little old-school barrel fuzes.
Looks like a strut brace is on the horizon as it didn't have one either.

Last edited by xschop; 02-04-2013 at 10:54 PM.
Old 02-05-2013, 01:18 PM
  #53  
Alan
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Your jump post is shot get a new/old one in good condition. This has to attach to the chassis via an insulator base - it is a battery direct connection that also should have a shroud & nut/cover over it .

The wiring diagrams show it clearly but its not considered a component. The smaller wires from it go to the CE panel top (fuse/relay panel) and to the alternator (big one). The temp sensor is also there but not labelled - look on a later year (1980 maybe) and you will see more functional labeling of the same things

Alan
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:49 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by xschop
78 on the title.... Vin # 9288200694
Hope it's not too rare as it's getting Xstra chopped....I have removed about 75lbs of crap already with the engine already gone....I have kept the brain (PCM) and nice washer reservoir if someone needs one just pay shipping, it's yours....tossed the charcoal canister and all AC parts along with 10lbs of road grime. The PO was my kinda guy....it has a newer looking dual exhaust (2.25) with an H-pipe and dual mufflers already....and NO CATS. Eric at TPC who has built a couple said it should be good for 350 RWHP which is what is going in the bay.
I see the fuze box has the little old-school barrel fuzes.
Looks like a strut brace is on the horizon as it didn't have one either.
With the power your going to be running, you might want something a little beefier for your 78. I'd also be interested in one & at the stock location points & without company logo's all over it. T
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Last edited by 77tony; 02-05-2013 at 03:43 PM.
Old 02-06-2013, 07:16 PM
  #55  
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I have a design drawn out for a 1-piece solid Billet T6061-T6. I'll start on it this weekend. I was sweating the lower Ball-joint clearance on the Boxster-S rotors then Dinsdale reminded me the steel ball joints are more compact than the aluminum ones I had on the mock-up OB Hub/Spindle..... 3mm clearance at max pivot...

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The Boxster-S rotor is only 18.2 LBS and is 318 x 28 x 67 offset with a huge 63mm pad sweep area just like the Cayenne rotors.....
It has a 98mm Hub I.D. and 120mm setscrew PCD, therefore requires a different hub-centering ring than the Cayenne rotors, so I spun out a set just for this build...

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Last edited by xschop; 02-06-2013 at 07:42 PM.
Old 02-06-2013, 08:51 PM
  #56  
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Speak to Greg about that 3mm clearance. I think he mentioned that he has seen that shrink under usage. To 0.
Old 02-09-2013, 01:14 AM
  #57  
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xschop any progress?
Old 02-09-2013, 11:30 AM
  #58  
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About to head to the shop and build the motor mounts. From the Peachy thread looks like I may want to drop the engine some as there will be mucho oil pan clearance.I have another oil pan from Alper that gives another 1" clearance between the sway bar/x-member and the front area of the sump. Has a thick 0.375 flange as well. I'll post dims later.
Old 02-09-2013, 09:38 PM
  #59  
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Late I think is 45 and early is 100
Old 02-10-2013, 10:42 AM
  #60  
xschop
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BC you lost me, what's 45 and 100 ?

I dropped the engine mount height holes another 1/2" so I can build a custom (thicker) Strut Bar. I also mill-slotted the X-member bolt holes to allow for engine set back when the Vette trans installs.
Did these on the Bridgeport and started with only the best, cold-rolled CrMo 4340, 0.25 x 3.0 and then machined a bolt-compression tube (4.25" matches Camaro engine mount) to keep it all square as I weld it up...

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Last edited by xschop; 03-19-2013 at 09:52 AM.


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