928-LS Tech
#121
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I talked with Eric who has done an LS to 928 Automatic and you would have to send your flex plate to him to have modified for the LS flywheel.
If you are able to swap in a 5.3 or 6.0 iron block and do the work yourself you could be in the neighborhood of $7k
I will post part#'s to the GM PS pump to 928 steering rack shortly. I'm not leaving a stone unturned on this swap and doing all steel braided lines and -6an fittings for high-press fuel and PS lines.
If you are able to swap in a 5.3 or 6.0 iron block and do the work yourself you could be in the neighborhood of $7k
I will post part#'s to the GM PS pump to 928 steering rack shortly. I'm not leaving a stone unturned on this swap and doing all steel braided lines and -6an fittings for high-press fuel and PS lines.
#122
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For the PS line, you'll need....
2ft of -6an Teflon-lined braided SS hose and
1ea Russell part# 648060 (attaches to GM PS pump)
1ea Russell part# 610160
1ea Russell part# 613090
1ea m14 x 1.5 banjo and bolt to -6an (attaches to 928 steering rack)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181108638051...#ht_1585wt_680
2ft of -6an Teflon-lined braided SS hose and
1ea Russell part# 648060 (attaches to GM PS pump)
1ea Russell part# 610160
1ea Russell part# 613090
1ea m14 x 1.5 banjo and bolt to -6an (attaches to 928 steering rack)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181108638051...#ht_1585wt_680
#123
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Headed to the shop later to build one of these...
Will be mounting 2ea of the 6-spot fuze blocks to tie-in the GM ECM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150769102402...9#ht_185wt_680
Will be mounting 2ea of the 6-spot fuze blocks to tie-in the GM ECM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150769102402...9#ht_185wt_680
![Name: 928LSfuzepanel_zps4ca42cfa.png
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#125
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My donor engine, harness and ECM is from a 99 Camaro SS
The wiring will take some time and I'll post the 928 diagram which will be modified from the 948 diagram. I will get rid of any Porsche fuse relay that runs the GM ECM, Fuel pump, or fans, just as I did here....
The wiring will take some time and I'll post the 928 diagram which will be modified from the 948 diagram. I will get rid of any Porsche fuse relay that runs the GM ECM, Fuel pump, or fans, just as I did here....
![Name: 948Fuseblockandrelays-1.png
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#126
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On the factory 928 heater valve, the port/valve is open when there is no vacuum.
Question is, does the RED vacuum supply from the head unit continually remain in vacuum when the heater control is off?.. or vice versa?
Question is, does the RED vacuum supply from the head unit continually remain in vacuum when the heater control is off?.. or vice versa?
Last edited by xschop; 04-11-2013 at 01:04 PM.
#127
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Heater Valve Solution is plumbed in....
FOUR SEASONS 74781 Heater Control Valve
Also remains OPEN under Non-vacuum and cycles the block coolant back to the LS water pump ports ¾” In, 5/8” out.
The ports on the 928 heater core are both 5/8”, so I used a ¾ to 5/8 hose line reducer (Gates 28611) to install the two way heater valve (74781)
Took a ride in Dinsdales supercharged 6-speed Getrag swap this weekend....flawless shifting, neck-snap acceleration and gas sipping 1475 RPM at 70 mph.
On a trip from Port lavaca Tx. to some airport in Iowa, not a hitch in the long distance trip....
![Name: WP_000329_zpsbe8fa4d9.jpg
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FOUR SEASONS 74781 Heater Control Valve
Also remains OPEN under Non-vacuum and cycles the block coolant back to the LS water pump ports ¾” In, 5/8” out.
The ports on the 928 heater core are both 5/8”, so I used a ¾ to 5/8 hose line reducer (Gates 28611) to install the two way heater valve (74781)
Took a ride in Dinsdales supercharged 6-speed Getrag swap this weekend....flawless shifting, neck-snap acceleration and gas sipping 1475 RPM at 70 mph.
On a trip from Port lavaca Tx. to some airport in Iowa, not a hitch in the long distance trip....
![Name: WP_000329_zpsbe8fa4d9.jpg
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#129
#130
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
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Have you tried going to NAPA for example and ask if they let you in the back to try matching up the drawing to an in stock hose? I did this for my SC setup and got lucky.
#132
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Ok. Dayco part # 71132 will fit and Dayco 71085 will fit with a 32mm (1.25") water port adapter spliced in for the LS steam vent line that comes from the front driver's side head.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/da...FdRa4AodTTMApQ
http://www.ebay.com/itm/32MM-1-26-Wa...#ht_5037wt_950
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/da...FdRa4AodTTMApQ
http://www.ebay.com/itm/32MM-1-26-Wa...#ht_5037wt_950
#133
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The diagram I posted fits the fuze blocks nicely and will have room for 4ea relays for the ECM. I used 3/8" aircraft grade phenolic waferboard I had at the shop...
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Decided to put on a 14 psi Rad. cap and may install a surge tank later, but don't know where I'll put it just yet. Built a bracket from 1.5" x 0.1875" thick alloy and poly bushings....
![Name: WP_000333_zps34fae5cf.jpg
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There are 2 ways to mount the Wilwood 13/16" clutch master. The easy way clocks the fluid intake at 7'oclock which may cause bleeding issues. The other way will clock the port just like factory (10' oclock) but will require an adapter.
The pushrod can easily be modded by cutting off exactly 2.90" from the 928 pushrod and welding it to the Wilwood pushrod leaving the factory adjustment at the 928 pedal clevis....
![Name: WP_000331_zpsed77d79b.jpg
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I realize looking at some of your threads, the sway bar mount on the chassis is weak. The bar I cut was CAST and 26mm Dia. So I'll mod it up to clear the oil-pan and use a beefier hollow 4340 DOM tube and machine step-out adapters and TIG-weld them in the sweet spot...
![Name: WP_000330_zps0f0ebfd5.jpg
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Decided to put on a 14 psi Rad. cap and may install a surge tank later, but don't know where I'll put it just yet. Built a bracket from 1.5" x 0.1875" thick alloy and poly bushings....
![Name: WP_000333_zps34fae5cf.jpg
Views: 435
Size: 84.7 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/1236384d1501791993-928-ls-tech-wp_000333_zps34fae5cf.jpg)
There are 2 ways to mount the Wilwood 13/16" clutch master. The easy way clocks the fluid intake at 7'oclock which may cause bleeding issues. The other way will clock the port just like factory (10' oclock) but will require an adapter.
The pushrod can easily be modded by cutting off exactly 2.90" from the 928 pushrod and welding it to the Wilwood pushrod leaving the factory adjustment at the 928 pedal clevis....
![Name: WP_000331_zpsed77d79b.jpg
Views: 413
Size: 46.3 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/1236385d1501791993-928-ls-tech-wp_000331_zpsed77d79b.jpg)
I realize looking at some of your threads, the sway bar mount on the chassis is weak. The bar I cut was CAST and 26mm Dia. So I'll mod it up to clear the oil-pan and use a beefier hollow 4340 DOM tube and machine step-out adapters and TIG-weld them in the sweet spot...
![Name: WP_000332_zps82c375fc.jpg
Views: 393
Size: 32.7 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/1236387d1501791993-928-ls-tech-wp_000332_zps82c375fc.jpg)
#134
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What is the purpose for the very similar wilwood Clutch master again?
#135
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It's volume disengages LS clutch at high RPM (which vettes had this problem) without over-extending the PP plate fingers. (the 7/8" master was causing this on factory clutches)....And it's brand new![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
I looked inside the 928 master and it has a "spooge hole" that are infamous for clogging and causing disengagement issues too.
On a side note if you want to keep the factory 928 Clutch MC, you'll want to use an M12 x 1.0 to -4AN adapter to the -4AN clutch line.
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
I looked inside the 928 master and it has a "spooge hole" that are infamous for clogging and causing disengagement issues too.
On a side note if you want to keep the factory 928 Clutch MC, you'll want to use an M12 x 1.0 to -4AN adapter to the -4AN clutch line.
Last edited by xschop; 04-22-2013 at 02:21 PM.