I might just cry (belt tensioner warning)
#167
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Bent valves status:
Regretfully, i am in the middle of the road. I do not have a high capacity compressor. I will re-install the Camshaft and then button her up to confirm if anything was bent. My next step would be to use a compression test. I realize the best choice is a leak down, but i can't do it. While its a little extra work, its not going to cost me anything except time.
Links advise:
Thank you everyone. I am still considering the turbo chains but for now i need to get her button up to see what type of damage i will be in soon. My fingers are crossed and the great Kris-ken is on my hot dial number.
Regretfully, i am in the middle of the road. I do not have a high capacity compressor. I will re-install the Camshaft and then button her up to confirm if anything was bent. My next step would be to use a compression test. I realize the best choice is a leak down, but i can't do it. While its a little extra work, its not going to cost me anything except time.
Links advise:
Thank you everyone. I am still considering the turbo chains but for now i need to get her button up to see what type of damage i will be in soon. My fingers are crossed and the great Kris-ken is on my hot dial number.
#168
Leon mentions there are seven links and 13cm between the "notches" on the cams. I just aligned my cams using the information from Big Dave's 928 Page. If I count the links that line up with the bumps (I don't have "notches") on the cams I get seven links. Between the cams I get five links and 113mm, not 13cm.
Also, my new turbo chains don't have colored links. I don't think it matters as long as the alignment of the cams is correct and the correct number of links between the bumps is achieved.
Can anybody confirm if the 113mm or 13cm is correct?
Also, my new turbo chains don't have colored links. I don't think it matters as long as the alignment of the cams is correct and the correct number of links between the bumps is achieved.
Can anybody confirm if the 113mm or 13cm is correct?
#169
Rennlist Member
Leakdown test is more to determine excessive wear that a compression test does not reveal.
Regards
Fred
#170
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
After my accident my S4 motor had two bent valves on cyl 7, nothing grotesque, no noticeable mark on the piston other than a bit of carbon chipped- no compression pressure whatsoever.
Leakdown test is more to determine excessive wear that a compression test does not reveal.
Regards
Fred
Leakdown test is more to determine excessive wear that a compression test does not reveal.
Regards
Fred
A small rented compressor would be enough to test this engine.
#172
Drifting
I'm guessing there is a pretty good chance his valves are fine and following is my reasoning. The timing belt was intact and where it should be before disassembly. Also, the way the cam tip broke it wouldn't let the cam gear slip prior to removing bolt.
@ G8RB8... are you suggesting that without the cams in place, all the valves should be shut and therefore all the stems should be sticking through the same distance? While maybe not a perfect test, that seems like any easy thing to check at this stage.
@ G8RB8... are you suggesting that without the cams in place, all the valves should be shut and therefore all the stems should be sticking through the same distance? While maybe not a perfect test, that seems like any easy thing to check at this stage.
#173
Rennlist Member
That's no so. A leakdown test will do the same as a compression test and much more but without the need to rotate the engine. Once you do this, you'll understand why is it supperior to just a compression test.
A small rented compressor would be enough to test this engine.
A small rented compressor would be enough to test this engine.
No one said a leakdown test was not better- read the small print!
Happy New Year.
Fred
#174
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
For now, i have gotten my self in a predicament with a striped star head. I really don't want to grind this one off. I can't imagine how much junk will drop in side the camshaft housing. I have highlighted the NG bolt in red below. Before starting the bolt looks like it had been touched. I am wondering if the cam shaft has been removed. Either way, anybody have a good idea? I do not think they make 9mm star bits. I do not have a drill to fit this tight of space. If i drill the head off, will i be able to back the screw out?
#175
I'm guessing there is a pretty good chance his valves are fine and following is my reasoning. The timing belt was intact and where it should be before disassembly. Also, the way the cam tip broke it wouldn't let the cam gear slip prior to removing bolt.
@ G8RB8... are you suggesting that without the cams in place, all the valves should be shut and therefore all the stems should be sticking through the same distance? While maybe not a perfect test, that seems like any easy thing to check at this stage.
@ G8RB8... are you suggesting that without the cams in place, all the valves should be shut and therefore all the stems should be sticking through the same distance? While maybe not a perfect test, that seems like any easy thing to check at this stage.
#176
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Question, the bolt i had striped, connected to the tower. Is the tower a brass substrate? I'll check with my magnet later to see if it steel. Unless someone might have another idea, i guess i am going to need to grind the bolt head off. My mechanic friend mentioned taking a punch and taping it into the bolt head. I'll try this first but i am pretty much thinking this will not work either.
#177
Burning Brakes
How badly stripped is the bolt? You can try to spot weld a cheap bit onto it and then extract the bolt.
If it is not very badly stripped you can try to put some ezGrip paste on your bit, you'll be amazed how good that stuff works.
Good luck
Cheers
If it is not very badly stripped you can try to put some ezGrip paste on your bit, you'll be amazed how good that stuff works.
Good luck
Cheers
#178
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The bolts are on there pretty tightly, I tried to remove one once by wacking it with a screwdriver on the side but had to resort to using the dremel to cut the head in two, the bolt turns freely once the tension from the head is broken. Besides, the mounting area might break when using a hammer. Need to cover everything really really really well, e.g clean off all surrounding oil and tape the area off, use a large blanket so you can lift it off completely once done. Also consider using a shopvac close to the head to suck up all filings while cutting.
#180
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Oh really? I guess I must have dreamed what I saw when I found no compression on number 7 and then two bent valves in it! The lad said he had no leakdown test capability- he will find a bent valve with a compression test. One assumes he has the nouse to turn the engine over manually before trying to crank it for a compression test to ensure nothing is blocking motion.
No one said a leakdown test was not better- read the small print!
Happy New Year.
Fred
No one said a leakdown test was not better- read the small print!
Happy New Year.
Fred