worf928

This is the picture you need.

There are two alignments necessary.
- intake cam to exhaust cam
- exhaust cam to crank

The second alignment is done with Porken's tool. The first is done with the templates or this picture.

It is very difficult to get the intake and exhaust cams indexed by eye when the engine is in the car. It is very easy to get them off by one chain tooth. That's why the template exists. If you cannot make the templates work, then use the picture but triple-check it. I recommend taking a picture and then using your eye on the picture. I use a paint pen to mark the cam's chain sprockets so that it is very easy to see the alignment.

MFranke

Do you have sealant for the end caps? Loctite 574 is original specified I believe but loctite 518, which I think superseded 574, worked nicely for me.

Want to be

My mechanic has gobs of the 574 loctite. I actually went over to his shop to p/u the stuff and forgot all about getting it. In regards to the alighnment mark. I had used this mark, as my starting point when counting the teeth. I'll double check what i have and post the picture tommorow. Today, i p/u my washed parts from my mechanic shop. I took the vavle cover and sprayed it black, high tempature black coating. The paint job turned out pretty good.

Want to be

Question,

Just curious but is the picture displayed for the chain markings "Slide 226". Is it from the PS or DS? I pretty sure mine is slightly different. I think the intake has another long marking and the exhaust cam only has the one mark like in the picture. I also believe the chain marking light colored marking might be off, but does that matter if the cams are in the correct position? I am pretty darn sure the intake cam on the DS is in the correct position because i market the end of the cam with a paint mark. The marking aligns to it perfectly. The exhaust cam was marked by a paint mark, and was replaced with another cam, while count the teeth from a reference point on the cam. I'll have pictures tomorrow, to display before and after, to see what you guys think. I don't want to tighten down everything and then find out i screwed up. LOL

worf928

The reference mark on the cams is on different sides of the chain sprocket depending upon which side of the engine you are on. On the right side (passenger for left hand drive) they are in front of the sprockets, on the left side they are behind. IIRC.

The cams have several other bumps on them in various places. There are no other marks on the sprockets.

worf928

If you refer to the light-colored chain links in the picture, then you can stop looking for them. They exist only in the picture.

The most important part of the picture is the 6 chain links between the marks. (Or 5 full links and 1/2 link on each side.)

Want to be

Thank you. I was wondering about the chain marking. I had thought, what is was the purpose. Sorry for the dumb question on the illustration of the chain.

In regards to the intake camshaft. I had marked the end of the camshaft (OS) while aligning it with the part i will soon loctite. see photo i had attached.

"Photo 2" The oil upgrade pins i am installing, i displayed the old style pin with the octagon and the new pin installed. I would assume i don't need the octagon part anymore and the upper half of the part i will be loctite will hold it down. Correct? "Update, i just looked a Leon photo, the answer is YES"

On the marking, the two notches illustrated in the picture provided (above) will be seen soon, once i rotate the camshaft. I am confident i placed them in the correct spot. I will know soon if i did not.

Next step to tighten down the set. The video displayed 70-75 lbs, is this correct? I heard 10 nm, but could not understand the lbs on the video.

Today, was just a slow day looking at the set up, cleaning and preparing. I did install (loose not tight) all of the bolts and caps, while dipping each bolt thread tip with a coat of oil. Probably was not needed, but i decided to do it.

worf928

20 N-m, 14 ft-lbs. (If you have the 8mm bearing bridge bolts which I'm pretty sure are '87+.)

Make sure that you match up the bearing bridges with the same numbers on the head. Also not that the intake-side bridges will be upside down (numbers upside down.)

Want to be

Roughly 2 hours of work time today and yesterday:

Caps all tightened down, exhaust and intake camshafts.
reviewed the position of each cap
installed updated pins for oil system.
Did not use loctite 574 and used instead Permatex Gasket Maker, similar to loc517
installed shroud of exhaust camshaft.
Connected coil ground
Connected CAM gear and spider
Need to look up torque for CAM gear

auzivision

Making good progress, keep going you'll get there!

Want to be

(75 minute of progress)
*Installed the chain tensioner
*Tighten CAM gear, began to tighten CAM but decided to wait and get a better torque wrench. I don't trust mine south of 70 lbs. I will need to do 47 lbs
*Measured the teeth marks, i think i am good. Its super close to 113 mm. If i was off a tooth, i would assume i might be 5 MM off? I did not measure the chain distance between each mark.
*Installed and cleaned old gaskets for the camshaft cover. I have decided for now to use RTV orange gasket sealer, instead of purchase a new set of gaskets. I would hope a small smudge on the rubber gasket will do the trick.

Question, could someone review the horrible picture i had drawn while removing the Cam shaft cover. Do i have the correct lengths positioned correctly? I wanted to make sure because of the one bolt i found broken, which is in the same spot with the chain tensioner.

Also, what is the torque setting for Camshaft cover. I would assume nothing more than 15-20 lbs? UPDATE: Its 7lbs per the videoThanks again. PIC's below.

jcorenman

Phil,

Looking good. I can't make any sense out of your drawing however, sorry.

When you get the cam sprockets torqued, rotate the cams by hand (or wrench... clockwise). Do they turn (considering spring pressure?
(If a cap got mixed up then the bearings will bind and the cams will not turn freely).

Hint: Torque for a 6mm diameter bolt should be around 6-7 ft-lbs, 8mm around 15-16 ft-lbs, 10mm around 30-32. Some bolts will vary, but this is a good "reality check". Write it on the wall, along with 96# for wheel nuts, 37# for oil-drain plug, 18# for spark plugs.

And squirt lots of oil (or assembly lube) on the cam lobes and lifters, before buttoning it up. And make sure whatever you used to plug the drains is pulled out.

Want to be

Outstanding idea to write down a chart for the torque settings!

The napkin is a picture of the camshaft cover bolt length position. L= long and S= short, in regards to length.

One of the bolts was found broken, its the one connected to the chain tensioner

I am short one bolt head for the camshaft cover, my one dumb question for Saturday. Would it matter if i left out one of the bolt from the camshaft cover? I figured the bolt connected to the tensioner was one of the most important ones. I am wanting to do the compression test. If it does matter, i could always just take one from the PS side of the engine. It would be the LONG bolt.

I did tighten down the bolt head for the cam but decided to stop. I don't trust either of my cheap torque wrenches anymore. I did not put in the three screws mentioned on the video to maintain the position of the spider gear. I have rotated the camshafts around more than once. All feels good. The tensioner for my chain is not spring but oil feed tension. I would assume the earlier models were spring tension. Possibly an 86 model year for the 5.0 liter. My mechanic said the tensioner looks very similar to the 944S model year. Needless to say, he won't allow any of the 944S models to be in his shop. I was just curious if anyone had failures on this design? He mentioned the S2 944 model was a better design. Did Porsche change the GTS model chain tension design?

If you were talking about the valve springs, i can hear valves moving. Also, when removing the camshaft caps, i did hear air releasing from the area i had stripped the bolt head. So i a confident this one spot has good compression. LOL

Surgery clean up is a MUST! I have counted the rags, all five accounted for and moved away from the engine bay. Somehow a few dog hairs has gotten in the the bay. I need to clean that out.

Really hope i don't have to re-open the engine again. I might need some local help on getting the belt installed. My last attempt, before finding the camshaft was cracked, it was very very tight. I had not released the grenade pin and it still felt very tight. Like i needed one more belt tooth in length. Its possible the camshaft position was off, since it was cracked and being held only by the torqued bolt.

Leon Speed

The short bolts are for the four corners, the rest uses long bolts. Also there is/should be an extra aluminum washers between the bolt head and dome washer on all outside bolts from the middle ones down. This was introduced on IIRC 89 models but is a good idea to retrofit.

Regarding the missing bolt I think it will matter but not sure how much. Air escaping around the pistons rings finds its way to the heads to possibly escape there. Not sure how much difference in reading one would get during a compression test.

Btw weird to hear air escaping when removing the caps. Releasing caps closes valves after all. Maybe I'm not thinking things through tough.

Want to be

The bolts had the washer you had mentioned. The original owner polished several parts on the car. Which in turned caused them to corrode. I figured once the lob had been released from the camshaft pressure it would be normal to hear some air releasing from the chamber. I'll just take one of the Long bolts from the other side of the engine. I wonder if the 911's had similar cover bolts. I doubt it. I could get my hands on them if so though. If i recall, while using my mechanic friend vice. ( i was preparing the covers for a wash and using the vice to remove the broken bolt on the chain tensioner) He did not say anything about the parts and may have said none of the 911's had rubber washers and other rubber parts on the covers.