Vilhuer

In cases like these I would always put crank to 45 degrees and rotate both cam and valve assemblies by hand. It doesn't cost anything but could reveal some problems in heads.

Want to be

Just curious, how is it possible to remove #25 pipe while in the engine bay? I figure if i attempt to remove it i will bend the crap out of it. I would guess it does not matter though.

So, it sounds like i'll just leave everything alone, which means 19 and 23 can remain, if i understood you correctly. (with everything attached to it )

Which means, i don't need to cap the very bottom picture

While working on the nuts last week i noticed a few nuts missing on the heads, its loose. I wonder if they rusted off?

Want to be

Well, its been about three weeks.

While waiting on parts to arrive, kids sick, holidays and myself getting sick i have been able to install the new WP and new Porken tensionar.

Tomorrow, i am working towards getting the belt installed. The cam gears are in fine shape. Its been so long, i might need to review the instructions on how to put things back together. LOL

I guess since i let my membership die, i can't post pictures. I'll get this fixed down the road. It was a bad time for my membership to expire and the the timing belt to fail.

Anyways, i hope to find out something soon.

Imo000

Don't renew. Renlist needs to learn that limiting non members, to only be able to post a handfull of pictures, is bad for their own bussiness. It will creat less interest and draw for new unique users that they generate their advertisment revenue. It's idiotic that a technical forum, based on instructional posts (like this and many others ones) does not allow free posting of pictures.

SeanR

You can post all the pictures you want, it's called hot linking, it's really nothing new to the internet.

worf928

OP,

first let me write that I understand some of your situation. When I first started working on my own 928 - 14 years ago - every time I went to deal with getting the next part off, I had to run to buy or borrow another tool. I know it can be frustrating, but patience and perseverance will pay off.

Next, a lot of folks have given you very good advice.

Follow.
It.

Follow it as best as you can and if you can't, ask questions and/or take your time. You've taken this long already, more patience won't kill you. Explain to the wife that you are both saving money by learning how to take care of your 928 and that you are saving your marriage - since she will always know from now on where you are; No worrying about you runnin' 'round town drinkin' and carousing 'cause you'll be in the garage.

Last, my 2 cents:

The tracking of the belt on the roller carrier (i.e. the assembly with the main 'tension' roller and the 'free spinning' idler roller) is NOT correct. The belt is tracking off-center of the main roller. It is most-likely due to wear on the two plastic bushings that separate the carrier from the pivot bolt screwed into the water pump casting. If you do not install the Pk'Tensioner (and I will not enter that battle) then you MUST replace those two bushings along with the main tension roller and the idler roller.

As far as the tensioner goes - if you don't 'PK' it - you will need to remove and dissemble it. Read the various write-ups so that you know what goes where. As far as its condition is concerned, the bi-metallic washer stack should slide out of the tensioner bore easily. The bore is lined with a teflon-ish coating. If the coating is damaged - washer's won't move freely and/or the lining of the bore doesn't feel 'teflon skillet' smooth - then your decision to PK it will have been made for you. You will need to replace the rubber boot, clamp, inner-piston o-ring and gasket. It will need to be filled with motor oil. Clean the fill and drain plugs and bores.

POST PICTURES OF YOUR CAM GEARS and OIL PUMP GEARS.

I'm sorry, but your master technician friend is unlikely to be a master 928 technician(*) and his opinion should not be counted above those that you will get here. I know you don't want to replace the gears because they are stupid-expensive. But, if they are too worn you run the risk of destroying your 928's engine in a few thousand miles.

* Over the last fourteen years I've done multiple-dozens of timing belt jobs on multiple-dozens of 928s and I have seen the evidence that not even Porsche factory-trained technicians have any business touching a 928.

Good luck.

worf928

Right. (Assuming IB/rennlist isn't filtering the URL links out...)

Open up a free photobucket account. Upload (*) the pictures to photobucket. Click on the 'URL' link and paste into your rennlist post. Use rennlist's preview function to make sure you did it right.

(*) In most circumstances it is considerate to your thread's readers if you resize the pictures to less than about 1280 pixels wide. That way they don't have to scroll around to see both the picture and descriptive text. This is especially important if the thread is read on mobile devices that scale text to the width used by the photo.

Want to be

Great options guys, but its probably just simpler to re-enable my subscription. I don't want my pictures to disappear down the road when considering this thread might be found and used. I realize there are dozens of better examples and questions but its a source for something.

In regards to my master mechanic friend. He would tell you he knows nothing about these cars, never replaced a light bulb and never wants to touch the 928. He perception of these cars was made many years ago when he was asked to be a mechanic for the 928. Needless to say, he said hell no.

In regards to his knowledge of 911's, hands down he is the best. He is known for tinkering on 911's to maximize their true potential. While most shops go by the book. Bob uses his experience of over 35 years.

I received some help from a fellow rennlister on my cams. I'll post a few good examples soon. (note, bottom timing cam and oil cam are new condition, made of steel.

Now to my question, how in the heck do i get the timing cam ON? My road block for now is the darn cam. The CAM won't budge past the detent. I have tried lightly tapping the detent.

I was considering purchasing a cam pusher versus already having a cam puller. As far as lubricant, i have nothing on the spline except for some PB plaster.

Thoughts, thanks...Yes i am listening.

Hilton

Unfortunately, using photobucket or other external hosting means the pictures will disappear at some point.

Please use attachments if possible. If you're not a member, then at least use Imageshack - as they seem to survive better than photobucket.

There are plenty of threads which had great pictures where the pictures have vanished (e.g. auto GTS pinion/ring swap)

Imo000

Aha...and what happens when those links are not valid anymore? The thread and all the valuable information becomes useless. I see it all the time. RL and IB Group should realize the downfall that this creats to their bussiness. After all, those of us that invest their own free time and post the write ups, generate the content to this site. This freely generated content is what attracts users to read it and that's how they sell advertisment on this site. Many of us don't want any compensation for this as it's our hobby. A hobby that makes free money for RL and IB. Wouldn't it be logical to let us post pictures, regardless of membership status, that makes them money??

Want to be

Any thoughts on my timing cam problem?

dr bob

If the cams are moving, I STRONGLY suggest that you move the crank to the -45º position before doing anything else. That moves pistons from top of stroke and eliminates the possibility of bending valves. Install the belt at the same -45º position, adjust tension just enough to keep the belt on all the pulleys (should be there pretty close already). Then rotate the crank to bring everything to #1TDC, verify that the cams are still in time with the crank now that all are at TDC. Adjust tension if the factory tensioner, pull the pin if it's a PKensioner. Rotate the engine a few times to verify timing is where you want it.

With the crank at TDC, the cams don't need to move far to risk valves hitting pistons. Further, the pressure of valve springs on cam lobes is trying to move the cams away from their correct positions. You will probably want to use a wrench on the end of the cam to move it to the correct position. But only after the crank is at -45º, so you don't bend any valves.

Want to be

Thank you for the advice Bob

Current state:
45 degree set
Flywheel lock installed
Installed rubber plug, to reduce oil being contaminated while cleaning
cleaned up area, debris, sand etc.
Mechanical parts of the Porken KIT installed with grenade pin
water pump installed
L/R CAM's are at 45 degrees located by a red paint mark
Verified sprocket cam condition, steel as-well, re-Tightened 30lbs, oil pump cam

Now my problem, hopeful this will explain it better, my fault.

I can't get the timing cam (sprocket cam), located behind the harmonic balancer onto its home position.

For a lubricant, i used PB blaster. It worked well coming off but i can't seem to get the darn thing to slide onto the detent and back to the home position. I have lightly smacked the detent and tried smacking the cam towards the engine with a rubber mallet.
Any thoughts,

Bilal928S4

You are talking about the gear connected to the crankshaft behind the harmonic balancer. That gear is a very tight fit around the crankshaft. I had trouble getting it off, but only used my hands. If you ever so slightly alternate pressure on different parts of it it will come off.
For putting it back on, I would not force it. Take it back off and try aligning the 'key" better with the slot. If it is off even by a hair it would not go back on. Be patient with it.
Hope that helps.

Want to be

After an 1 hours, trying to get the thing on, and my back killing me. I decided to throw in the tow and ask an expert on how to do it. I am thinking i need to lightly tap the detent, maybe it has rocked a bit.


Update:
My friend just told me to get a pliers and try and center the key(detent). Its more than likely it rocked it the back. I never thought about using a set of pliers.

Wish me LUCK, I can't believe the simplest thing is causing me so much grief.