I might just cry (belt tensioner warning)
#151
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You can leave another cam alone but have to remove large alu pieces at each end of head. There's many while at it type of jobs like oil feed hole plug reneval to GTS style full metal part which should be done at same time.
#152
Team Owner
You will have to remove both of the cam chain tensioners first.
NOTE inspect the pads for wear
NOTE stuff rags into the openings for the oil returns so you dont drop the banjos or the sealing rings into the sump
You will also have to remove both of the cams, to install new chains.
I would suggest that you consider using the Turbo timing chains they are a few more dollars per chain
NOTE inspect the pads for wear
NOTE stuff rags into the openings for the oil returns so you dont drop the banjos or the sealing rings into the sump
You will also have to remove both of the cams, to install new chains.
I would suggest that you consider using the Turbo timing chains they are a few more dollars per chain
#153
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Updates:
Purchased some parts from Roger, to support the removal of Cam shaft cover. "includes the GTS update"
Purchased a used spider for the CAM, 928 International
Rec. the CAM's yesterday from " polecat702 ", great condition, many thanks!!!
Preparing to take all of my covers to my friends shop to run them through a parts washing machine.
Holidays and Family time. Not much time for the car.
Purchased some parts from Roger, to support the removal of Cam shaft cover. "includes the GTS update"
Purchased a used spider for the CAM, 928 International
Rec. the CAM's yesterday from " polecat702 ", great condition, many thanks!!!
Preparing to take all of my covers to my friends shop to run them through a parts washing machine.
Holidays and Family time. Not much time for the car.
#154
Team Owner
buy 2 new turbo timing chains,
one for each set of cams.
one for each set of cams.
#156
Supercharged
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Actually, I believe it's an XZN or triple square bit (12 point). And if memory serves its an 8mm bit. They often sell them in a set of 3 or 4 from 6mm through 12 or 13mm. Our cars need the 12mm one for the flywheel.
#157
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#159
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, i think Ace has a nice set and will check tomorrow.
In regards to what i noticed today, i noticed a broken bolt on chain tensioner. It was already gone and i did not see it anywhere inside. I am not sure what was connected to it since the bolt was not attached. (center hole, right side)
Also, i purchased these parts for an update, i was just curious where do they go? I guess i will know more once the camshaft is taken out.
In regards to what i noticed today, i noticed a broken bolt on chain tensioner. It was already gone and i did not see it anywhere inside. I am not sure what was connected to it since the bolt was not attached. (center hole, right side)
Also, i purchased these parts for an update, i was just curious where do they go? I guess i will know more once the camshaft is taken out.
Last edited by Want to be; 12-29-2012 at 10:14 PM.
#160
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Check all of your cam cover bolts. One bolt goes trough the tensioner where you see the broken bolt.
This is how it should look:
The pins go in the holes under the cam end plates. You take out the plastic black pucks and place the pins in the holes in the head. Three on the passenger side, two on the drivers side.
The cam end plate on the drivers side is a bit of a chore to remove and install because the lower XZN bolt is very close to the brake booster and a (torque) wrench will not fit in there. You will need to fab up a special tool with the XZN bit. I made a something with a bit adapter and 8 mm allen key.
The cam end plates need to be cleaned and bolted back using Loctite 574 on the mating flanges with the head. Loctite 574 is somewhat expensive, my Porsche dealer recommended loctite 5900 instead, said they use it on all engine flanges on the 997. Since I already had 574 I used that, but used the 5900 for the cam cover corners.
This is how it should look:
The pins go in the holes under the cam end plates. You take out the plastic black pucks and place the pins in the holes in the head. Three on the passenger side, two on the drivers side.
The cam end plate on the drivers side is a bit of a chore to remove and install because the lower XZN bolt is very close to the brake booster and a (torque) wrench will not fit in there. You will need to fab up a special tool with the XZN bit. I made a something with a bit adapter and 8 mm allen key.
The cam end plates need to be cleaned and bolted back using Loctite 574 on the mating flanges with the head. Loctite 574 is somewhat expensive, my Porsche dealer recommended loctite 5900 instead, said they use it on all engine flanges on the 997. Since I already had 574 I used that, but used the 5900 for the cam cover corners.
#161
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Good info, after typing out the question, i did recall one of the bolts that felt like it would never screw out correctly. Hopefully i can get the bolt to back out of the chain tensioner. In regards to the loctite, my mechanic friend has the stuff. He did not have much good to say about this loctite. Mentioned another number to use instead.
I am glad i asked about the type of bits to use on the job. I thought about using a torq bits, which would been a problem. I don't think Ace has the correct wrench. So i am going to try and see if Pep boys has the wrench set.
A friend of mine has a small flat ratchet wrench which took different types of bits. I would guess this would be perfect for the job. I used this wrench on the inside of my moon roof. I think it was a sears wrench, combo set. He always had a specialty tool on him.
Any tips on how to mark the cams? I have begun paint a few marks with some white touch up paint.
I am glad i asked about the type of bits to use on the job. I thought about using a torq bits, which would been a problem. I don't think Ace has the correct wrench. So i am going to try and see if Pep boys has the wrench set.
A friend of mine has a small flat ratchet wrench which took different types of bits. I would guess this would be perfect for the job. I used this wrench on the inside of my moon roof. I think it was a sears wrench, combo set. He always had a specialty tool on him.
Any tips on how to mark the cams? I have begun paint a few marks with some white touch up paint.
#162
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There is a thread on Rennlist which has an outline of the Porsche cam alignment tools. These can be printed out then copied on cardboard and you have a replica of the alignment tool. These fit in just one way over the cams at 45 degreed BTDC. Furthermore the cams have notches for alignment with the cam chain. These should align with the two colored chain links, IIRC its seven links or 13 cm between them. Finetuning of the cam timing should be done by a dial caliper or Porkens tool.
#163
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Well I pu a star set at autozone. The only problem is the bits are probably 2-3 inches long. Ok, now I understand what you were talking about making a custom wrench.
#165
Instructor
Leon mentions there are seven links and 13cm between the "notches" on the cams. I just aligned my cams using the information from Big Dave's 928 Page. If I count the links that line up with the bumps (I don't have "notches") on the cams I get seven links. Between the cams I get five links and 113mm, not 13cm.
Also, my new turbo chains don't have colored links. I don't think it matters as long as the alignment of the cams is correct and the correct number of links between the bumps is achieved.
Can anybody confirm if the 113mm or 13cm is correct?
Also, my new turbo chains don't have colored links. I don't think it matters as long as the alignment of the cams is correct and the correct number of links between the bumps is achieved.
Can anybody confirm if the 113mm or 13cm is correct?