rexpontius

No offense, but I really think the Pkensioner is a much better solution, reducing cam gear and water pump bearing wear.

The original tensioner is pretty hard to set correctly (requiring a kempf tool, or original tool), and still results in violently flapping belts under some conditions.

I don't want to start another Pkensioner debate, but I think in this specific case he would be better of upgrading.

In the end its his decision, but I honestly don't think my advice is a bad advice.

cheers

Want to be

Today i was able to do the following:

In regards to the 4mm allen head bolt that stripped:
p/u a torx bit, no luck, i tried a T20 and T25.
I could not drill the hole due to my equipment size.

Tried an air tool to grind off the head of the bolt. My air-tank is too darn small, so i went to a drimel tool. After 30 minutes of grinding and resting a few, i was able to get the bolt off and save the post without any threads being gubbered up. Yeah. I damaged the arm of course and accidentally hit one of the rollers with the drimel. Small surface scratch

Confirmed both gears, oil pump and center gear are made of steal. They both look good.

I had a master mechanic and a local friend review my cam gears on both the driver side and passenger side. They both believe i can go another interval before replacement.

Removed the water pump, has a plastic propeller. Don't know how old but appears to spin freely but i am going to have my master mechanic look over the pump and get his 2 cents.

Oh and Porsche, maybe next time they can add a few more bolts on the water pump. I was thinking maybe 10 more.

Tomorrow, if my schedule allows. I plan on removing the smog pump and and oil pump cam, besides a few small cam gears at the bottom.

Need to pick up a snap ring puller at Ace

Thanks everyone. I know i am slow but i have very little time per day and always need to go p/u another tool at the store. LOL

In regards to the PK and factory tensionar. I am weighing out my options. While i am on a budget i still think the PK might be my ticket. I am not trying to cause a debate, its just what i feel might be the better way for my situation.

After all will be done and button back up. I still need to see if a valve was bent. If so, this will be another decision on what to do. My friend said he would help me rebuild the heads but raised a concern of what will possible happen after he heads are rebuilt. Such as the car consuming oil. I realize this is a month down the road considering how much time i am taking. Though i am learning alot about the car, which is FUN to me.

G8RB8

Sorry to hear that

G8RB8

OK back to work. I suggest posting good, in focus, well lit pictures of the gear tooth area so the experts here can evaluate the coating, which I understand is the key to whether they are usable or not.

Imo000

Before going any further or spending more money, ask you mechanic buddy to get his hands on a leakdown tester and test your engine.

Want to be

In regards to the leak down, compression test. I am not sure i have enough psi in my garage compressor to do such a task. If i have a bent valve, it will be fixed. I appreciate your concerns and advice.

Question, the Air pump.

Can anyone tell me how to loosen the connection piece i had posted below? I can't seem to get the bolt loose and i am afraid i am going to bend the pipe.

Is the threads reverse? I PB blasted it and let her soak. I figure if i put any more pressure on it i will break it. I have been trying with two wrenches and i will not budge.

Kevin in Atlanta

You need to counter hold them. And no they are not reverse threaded.

Want to be

maybe i need to torch it as-well? I don't have such a tool though. I have been trying to counter hold the two but nothing seems to budge. Question, what happens if i don't plug the hole? The air pump has been removed.

I guess I'll try again tomorrow and see if my wimpy arms can break it free.

thanks

928Myles

Not sure if you have the correct wrench for the large nut (flare wrench) but holding the wrench you are useing so it sits near the bottom (vertically) of the nut (where the most meat is) may help as the wrench will squeeze the nut onto the threads less.

Best of luck.
Myles

Hilton

There's a non-return valve just up that pipe immediately below the diverter valve - so you don't have an exhaust leak up there.

See post 10 in this thread for the parts diagram - item 23 is the non-return valve. Post 8 also shows the Gates cap which exactly fits the pipe off the cat to seal it (if you do end up removing the non-return valve and *all* the airpump piping).

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...read-size.html

Lizard928

For the air-pump connection, yes two wrenches, sometimes loads of force.

As to your comment about the gears. Please take a picture of them. If there is much if any metal showing through the coating of the gears, you will have to change the gears in the future, or just have them re-coated now.

Want to be

I do not have a set of flare wrenches. I was using an adjustable wrench and a 19-21 ish metric wrench for the bottom connection piece. I'll stop by harbor and freight and pu a set of flare wrenches.

To clarify the hyper link provided above. I only need to plug the pipe going north and the pipe going south to the cats does not need capped.

Kevin in Atlanta

Adjustable wrenches suck. Useless for car work, IMHO. They end up rounding bolts and nuts.

mark kibort

use a large vice grip! it will work best on one of the nuts. it holds it with precision and doesnt do any damage to the sides of the nut.

Hilton

If you're removing the air pump, you can remove that, the rubber hoses, and the diverter valve. As long as item 23 in the PET picture remains, you won't have an exhaust leak (in the thread linked to above) - although check it seals as they do get gummed up with carbon as far as I've seen.

Or you can remove all of it (everything from that union in your pic upwards) and just use one of the Gates caps on the cat-side of that connection.