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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 10:32 PM
  #61  
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If Mark has 'em, and you can get Greg B to measure them to yay/nay them, I'll ferry them between the 2 shops for you. Been making that trip a lot, lately.
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #62  
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Mark stands behind all of it for a year, so I would expect them to be fine.

Can they do anything to make the size on the valve stem uniform and use a smaller guide?
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Ducman82
ya, but i wonder if i will run in to that same problem....
the used valve route is a good one.

Mark
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 11:27 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
If Mark has 'em, and you can get Greg B to measure them to yay/nay them, I'll ferry them between the 2 shops for you. Been making that trip a lot, lately.
very kind, thank you. ill call mark/tom tomorrow . i have been doing that a lot lately too.. :-P

thanks for the moral boost.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 12:28 AM
  #65  
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I have some used Euro valves you can have. Already been cut. Send me mail if interested.
Tony
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 12:30 AM
  #66  
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email sent.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 05:59 AM
  #67  
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Call me inexperienced but this is the strangest thing I have ever heard. Correct me if I am wrong but the guides are made of Bronze and the Valves of harden steel. It would be logical that the guides would wear long before the valve stems. Maybe with a million miles on the engine with multiple valve jobs -just maybe I could buy this. But I have yet to see a 928 go a million miles. Actually from what i have seen with used and abused engines in the 150K mile catagory is very little wear. These engines are not like GM engines and could with care well go a million miles.

Confused
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #68  
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marks does not have any valves...
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 04:19 PM
  #69  
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head part number is 928.104.348.2R Intake is 45mm, exhaust is 40. its an EARLY head with shims at the base of the springs, not spring cups.
so those above part numbers are what i need? i can't seem to find any info on the real early head valve numbers...
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 06:33 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Podguy
Call me inexperienced but this is the strangest thing I have ever heard. Correct me if I am wrong but the guides are made of Bronze and the Valves of harden steel. It would be logical that the guides would wear long before the valve stems. Maybe with a million miles on the engine with multiple valve jobs -just maybe I could buy this. But I have yet to see a 928 go a million miles. Actually from what i have seen with used and abused engines in the 150K mile catagory is very little wear. These engines are not like GM engines and could with care well go a million miles.

Confused
My theory is that the engine carbon gets into the oil and works its way into the softer brass. the brass holds the carbon and the valve rubs against it, thus waring the valve stem.

Moral of the story, change your oil when it starts to look dirty.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 06:45 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by 928mac
My theory is that the engine carbon gets into the oil and works its way into the softer brass. the brass holds the carbon and the valve rubs against it, thus waring the valve stem.

Moral of the story, change your oil when it starts to look dirty.
Bingo. just got of the phone with the engine shop asking that same question he did. thats the cause for sure.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #72  
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got the rings installed on the pistons. now the fun part of wrist pins and c clips. Question guys. i numbered the rods, but for the life of me i can't remember what way they face.... part numbers to the front of engine or back...... WSM does not seem to say.. at least from what i can find.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #73  
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found it.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 05:35 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 928mac
My theory is that the engine carbon gets into the oil and works its way into the softer brass. the brass holds the carbon and the valve rubs against it, thus waring the valve stem.

Moral of the story, change your oil when it starts to look dirty.
Oil when its working, looks dirty, its the detergent additives that keep stuff suspended in the oil, but if it goes through the filter I suspect its not a wear factor on the engine.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #75  
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Light oil on the cylinder walls, reline lube on bearings, torqued con rod nuts to 54 ftlbs per wsm .... Yay!
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