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Old 08-11-2011, 06:43 AM
  #46  
Podguy
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On the subject of coating, I was reading American Blasting's site in Scaramento and they now offer metal spaying. It looks like a neat way to restore rusted metal parts. This probably is not what you want for the pistons, but it is good to know such a sevice is available for a reasonable price.
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Old 09-21-2011, 05:27 PM
  #47  
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A little update here. After roger was able to figure out what spring parts i need, the machine shop is getting ready to finish the heads and gap the rings for me. i will install the pistons, torque the heads and check valve clearance in the next few weeks. I also got Gregs pan spacer and stud kit on the way as well.

Cam towers look ok after the PC shop bead blasted some of the outer cam "bearing" surfaces. all seems to be on track so far. ill post some pictures when i have more then just boxes of parts.
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:47 PM
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today i dropped off the shim/spring seat/retainer's that i got from roger at the machine shop. hope to have the heads and pistons back next week. i will install the pistons soon! yay! then its figuring out what directions to follow for torquing the heads down.

question, whats the best way to check valve clearance? i figure its assemble/time the motor and turn her over (with class on piston tops) then take everything apart and look. i had the same shop that did MK's hybrid piston cuts, so I'm not to worried. just wondering what i should do. can you re torque stock head gaskets a few times?
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:47 AM
  #49  
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You cannot torque a head gasket a second time. They are made to crush as they are torqued.

What you can do for the test is to use the old head gasket. For the test you do not really need to torque the head. just bolt it down in a few places and then do the test. You can use wax for the test just go easy so as not to bend anything. Since the 4.7 engine is a non-interference engine you are probably not going to run into any problems.

I noted from another thread that the 16 valve water pump is not the same as the 32 valve water pump. This may be something to ask about and check out on assembly.

Good luck
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:59 PM
  #50  
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If you have not already made one, you will need a spacer between the manifold and the exhaust assuming you are using the stock exhaust system.
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Old 10-07-2011, 04:12 AM
  #51  
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A spacer is a bit of a stretch - I think 928 Motor Sports sells an adapter. I found with the 85-85 manifold and the Euro down pipe it was possible to bend things to fit. Best bet though is just to have a muffler shop fix things up.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:09 AM
  #52  
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What I found annoying with the 85/86 manifold is that I didn't understand that the change in exit location is essentially straight back on the drivers side, which makes it a tight fit no matter how you do the pipes down to the rest of the exhaust. My muffler guys made a Y pipe to fit fine, but a little tweak to the header could have improved the clearance a bunch, but they didn't like the idea of messing with a 25 year old part.

I wonder how hard it would be to make a new copy of the 85/86 manifold for the driver side that is a proper match to the factory exhaust?
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:46 AM
  #53  
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I've installed 85 manifold pipes on 84 Euro.
Then, attached 87 cat. (needed to be emissions compliant on this)

It bolted up directly on driver's side. Close to the shielding, but it fit fine.

Took it to the muffler shop, raised the car, and we made some mods to the passenger side inlet pipe to the cat. We cut it, bolted the flanges-up, then welded in a spacer pipe.

Alignment, before sizing/welding the spacer, meant heating the pipes entering the cat red hot, and rebending a bit. This centered the cat in the tunnel and made alignment work great.


Waterpump isn't different until 87.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:56 PM
  #54  
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heard back from the machine shop today. guides installed, about to cut seats.... and found all the valves are worn a thousandth past there wear limit.... awesome. AHHHHHHH. anyone know how much valves are for a 4.7?
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:26 PM
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No idea but you are doing a awesome job! Hope to see your car one day!
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:38 PM
  #56  
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thanks! talked to the shop again being that i was not clear on how the valves were worn. turns out the valves were worn in two spots. just above the valve guide, and just below. the valves were so worn (2 thousandths in both spots) they "rocked or teeter tottered" with he pivit being in the center for the guide.
at least they got the rings done for me so i can install the pistons this weekend.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:02 PM
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Ouch!
928 105 409 02 Intake Valve 80-85 Euro $50.00

May be some other options?
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:35 PM
  #58  
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And don't forget exhaust! :-) this baby had some miles on it for sure. Guess its down to money now. Should have waited for a set of complete heads to show up. And now the valve hunt begins
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:41 PM
  #59  
Rob Edwards
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U928 105 409 02 = $20 each, minus 50% off. If any are in stock...

U 928 105 410 04 = $45 ea, same discount, same caveat...
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:09 PM
  #60  
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ya, but i wonder if i will run in to that same problem....
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