RCinXS

That looks great Carl. Sorry to hear that there seems to be a need for the modification.

I don't seem to have any noise problems, at least not yet.

I wonder if it's due to the fact that I polished and greased the pins, etc.? Also used anti seize on all the threaded parts.

Bill Ball

My pin is corrosion-free, lubed, torqued accurately, etc., and it still turns with the shock. So, I think this fix is needed for those that have this plate.

I gather the hole in the plate will need to be drilled to a specific size in a drill press to accomodate the hat washer. Look like a fair-sized drill bit.

Thanks for addressing this, Carl.

Lizard928

Carl,

That looks perfect. Though I do wish to say that the factory design should/would when torqued properly lock the pin to the outer bushing preventing anything from rotating on the pin.
I have yet to remove a factory pin that was worn with ridges/grooves into it. If it did rotate you would see those grooves.

I am curious as to the method taken for increasing the hole diameter in the plate, and what the dimensional differences are between the hat bushing OD and plate ID. Also how much thrust clearance was built in?

Glen McCartney

Looks like the correct fix, looks great.

Carl Fausett

I am drawing it up now, and we are making a set in steel to mount on a car and drive around.
The whole in the plate was made with a rotary broach.

I can get you dimensions after I'm sure what they are.

Carl Fausett

I like that chin splitter in your avatar, Glen

blazing928

Carl
What is the time expectation for the hat washer to be available?
My pins and TDP are out at present, so would prefer to do this now and not have to take them out another time.
ta

Bill Ball

Nigel: You won't need to remove the pin to perform the fix, just the tiedown plate to enlarge the hole to accomodate the hat washer.

terry gt

Carl, so this is why my rear end feels funny , the nuts on the big pins keep getting loose . So..... let me know . Terry

blazing928

Bill
perhaps the reason I think my nuts don't come loose is that I tighten the TDP nut with the pin in a vise [protected] up very tight [FT!!] and locktite that end, so I am only [attempting to] torque just the other end.

I thought I read somewhere that this is the way to do this even with out the plate.

So therefore I would like to do this with pin removed. At the end of the day it only takes a few minutes, I have no probs getting the pin in.

Not to mention by the time they are made and I get one posted here.......

Carl Fausett

We are just finishing a set of the plates and hat bushings in steel now. I hope to mount them to a car and test them soon. Incidently, I fitted the race car with the "correction" outlined in post #75 in this thread and went to Road America with it.

We painted a yellow line though the pin, the nut, and the plate so we could see how they were moving if they were moving.
At the end of three 30-minute race sessions (1.5 hours of racing) they had not moved at all. The car felt wonderful.

Here is a video of the track session (first video listed at the top of the page):
http://www.facebook.com/pages/928-Mo...app_2392950137

I just went out to the trailer and grabbed these photos:

Carl Fausett

Make sure that the nuts are not worn. Replace them, or jam-lock them with a second nut after you have torqued them to 105 lb/ft. I am not saying that IS your problem, but you need to eliminate it from consideration.

Carl Fausett

If you want to try the hat washers:

1) recognise that they may not be needed at all - see post 116. My race car does not creak and the nuts do not turn. The pins were installed with plenty of anti-sieze compound on them. However, my street car does creak - but the pins have never been removed and lubed.

2) if you want to try the new design with the hat washers, send in your plates, I will update them to the current design and send them back without charge.

Please understand that the new design with hat washers has not been fully tested yet. I don't think they will creak at all, but I am a little worried they may "clunk" when the pin turns and the hat washer hits the plate. It shouldn't, I know, but I'm just sayin'...

Or, just wait until I/we can test them for a while, and then send your plates in for the update if you still want to.

Carl Fausett

Thats what I am thinking, too. On the my two 928's the one that has had the pins all the way out, cleaned, and lubed has no problems. The one where they were just added to pins that have not been serviced, creaks.

Speedtoys

And..correct me if Im wrong..but this isnt that servicing solves the issues, its just that freshly greased parts dont creake when the wrong parts move..because theyre freshly greased.

These parts shouldnt be moving at all. ?