Speedtoys

Ya..if schedules work, we'll be looking at this next Thursday.

Carl Fausett

I got it. I happen to have two 928's in the air right now that both have these kits installed. On Monday morning I will remove the plate from one, install a thin thrust washer under it, and re-install the plate.

My thinking is that the pin will be allowed to rotate again with the travel of the suspension, and the creaking, caused by direct contact of the rubber onto the plate, will stop.

Glad you brought this to my attention. I'll tell you what I find. If this fixes the creaking and improves the function, I will issue the thrust washers to all the kit owners as an update.

Lizard928

Carl,

You still dont have this. The plate is not really in contact with the rubber, and a small thrust washer behind the plate will do nothing.
You MUST isolate the pin off this plate. If you continue to have the but pinch down on this plate, the problem will persist!

I have already explained to you on the prior page how to solve this.

Carl Fausett

Colin,

Referring to Simons' drawing in post 54, the "hat bushing" he calls it. I will look at that solution too, it has merit.

Thats what you meant also, yes?

Lizard928

Yes, that is more what I meant. You need probably around .0005" clearance between this hat and the mounting plate for all radial movement.

For all for/aft play, I would recommend .001" to ensure proper rotation is able to be achieved even if things get a little warm.

Bill Ball

Colin and I seem to agree as to the problem. As to the solution, I think it just needs to be a standard bushing that provides the stated clearance for the washer, and not necessarily a hat, judging from how the washer only contacts the bushing center in the stock setup, I believe. It just needs to be able to take the torque without deforming (probably hardened, like the washer). A little grease around the bushing and between the washer face and the plate should help longevity too. The only other issue is I suspect the hole in the plate would need to be drilled out to accomodate the bushing. But until Jeff comes over again on Thursday and we get to fiddle some more, I'm not comitting to this, even though it seems pretty obvious at this point. I do really like the idea behind the plates. Although we have been able to tie down the rear successfully without them, they make it a LOT easier.

76FJ55

Looks like Bill, Colin and I all identify the problem in the same way. We just initially visualized the solution slightly differently. Running the hat bushing eliminates the need for the original washer, where Collin's suggestion of installing a sleeve will require the use of the original washer, but in the end both approaches accomplish the same goal. And to Colins benefit his solution is probably cheaper and easier to implement.

Glen McCartney

Watching this thread as I have these plates on the car for about a month now. I did get creaking initially, thought it was suspension settling from being raised. Creaking went away with a short drive and haven't noticed it returning, but I did check the torque on the lock nuts on the plate side last week. The passenger was still torqued to spec. But the driver side was loose. I re-torgued it and after a week, it needed to be re-torgued again, passenger side still tight. I still don't have any creaking, or at least not noticeable. I do have the Bilstein/Eibach set up and the rear suspension is pretty stiff.

I'll be interested to see the fix, as I think and Colin has identified the proper fix.

Lizard928

Simon,

I do like your solution for sure. But yes, machining a small sleeve will be a little cheaper.
Heck, one could take just a piece of pipe with the right dimensions and cut it down to the right length and install.

76FJ55

this is not actually correct: could also use an old shock inner bushing and cut to length, the diameters on it are guarenteed to be correct.

Correction: the ID of the spacer will neet to match the OD of the threaded section of the pin the. The shock bushing ID matches the larger diameter of the pin and therefore will not be self centering on if installed at the aft end in the tie down bracket.

Lizard928

Borland,

The drop links are not strong enough for using a piece like that....

Speedtoys

Glen..if you could.

Pull the inner bolt where the drop link used to go...then have someone compress the car in that corner hard...does the hole in the plate and hold in the LCA remain aligned or do they then shift apart?

Carl Fausett

I went into the shop today to look at this for you guys.

Like I said - I have two 928's up in the air right now, both that have had these kits in place for a long time. One has adjustable rear drop links, the other has the stock drop links. I focused on that one so as not to introduce another variable.

Of the 4 nuts on the two cars, only one was loose, on the drivers side. And it wasn't falling-off loose, but it wasn't at torque spec any more, either.

I like your idea that the nut on the plate prohibits the pin from moving as it is designed to, and probably is producing your creaking noise.

I am not sure that a hat washer will be needed, as the plate is held up off the pin by the bushing. I measured 0.10" between the end of the pin and the load surface of the bushing.

Here - It took photos. You can see the bearing surface stick further out than the pin, allowing the pin to turn (if the nut were allowed to turn).

I also found that the hole in our plate is large enough to allow the pin to turn (if the nut were allowed to turn).

So I focused on allowing the nut to turn in what looks like a max 15 degree arc from full droop to full suspension load.

Speedtoys

Awesome update...we'll get eyes on this Thursday Carl.

Carl Fausett

So this is what I did as "proof of concept"

I took load-bearing thrust washers, yellow chromate plated, and milled the pin size into them.

One is added right after the plate, then greased, then the other is added face-to-face, then the nut was added and torqued.