Empty shell to finished car
Time for a status update and some more progress pictures. As I mentioned in the beginning of this project, my goal was to not only add some subtle improvements to the exterior of the car, but also improve how the electrical system works.
I started researching (after BC posted a link about it) a multiplexing electrical system made by LittleFuse. It basically distributes power nodes to strategic locations through the car, and uses input nodes in the cabin to take all the switch inputs and then send them over "data cable" or a CANBUS type connection to the power cells that actually turn on the load, like headlamps, turn signals etc. That way there is no high current going through any switches in the cabin, and a switch is simply pulled to ground with a very small voltage and amperage (milli amp range). This in turn allows for thinner wires in the switches and less overall wiring which makes for a lighter car but most importantly, it allows endless configuration possibilities of switches and events.
The system has been ordered and is currently being configured and I hope to have it in hand shortly to begin the install. There is unfortunately no way for the end user to program it at home yet, but I am told it is coming. Right now the user has to email the factory with the changes he or she wants, and they will email a new configuration file to upload to the system in the car.
While I am waiting for the system to be delivered, I started to prepare the chassis for the location of the master cell, power cells and the motor controller that handles power windows, headlight motor and power locks. I fabricated some balsa sheets and covered them in fiberglass but the final product will be ABS plastic. The master cell and motor control (inMotion) will be located where the factory CEB was located, and while I was at it, I made a larger tray that sits under the center console. This will hold fuse blocks for the audio system and other components as well as future electronic additions.
I have slowly begun to tear down the stock harness to learn where all the wires go and how they are connected, but will only reuse the wires that go from the digital dash and the diagnostic plug. All other wiring and connectors will be brand new, and of larger gauge. As you can see in the picture below, it shows a comparison of the stock headlight connectors and its wiring, and I have put larger gauge wiring next to it. The ISIS system uses 14 AWG wires for power distribution, so that is what I am using for all light connections. Stock gauge for the headlights is 1.0mm2 cross section which is slightly thicker than 18 AWG. Pretty thin! If you go to this link you will find out just how much voltage loss wires have, and considering how thin (and oxidized) the factory wiring is, I am not surprised about all the electrical gremlins we see in these cars. http://www.genuinedealz.com/voltage-drop-calculator
I am also upgrading the headlight connector itself to a high temperature ceramic connector. It does require a small cut on the underside of the connector to clear the lower 4th pin on the H4 (euro) headlamp connection. But it is a very small cut and doesn't affect the integrity of the ceramic housing.
Basically every power wire run will increase at least 2 AWG units, and the sensor wires are also upgraded as well. This adds some weight, but it will be offset by the reduced amount of total wires, relays, fuse panel etc. All connectors are tinned copper for corrosion resistance and improved conductivity over brass. Battery cables are upgraded to 1/0 AWG from the battery to the starter, with tinned copper battery terminals.
I hope to have pictures of the actual ISIS system shortly. Until then, here is a link to the product page: http://www.isispower.com
Cheers!
Carl
I started researching (after BC posted a link about it) a multiplexing electrical system made by LittleFuse. It basically distributes power nodes to strategic locations through the car, and uses input nodes in the cabin to take all the switch inputs and then send them over "data cable" or a CANBUS type connection to the power cells that actually turn on the load, like headlamps, turn signals etc. That way there is no high current going through any switches in the cabin, and a switch is simply pulled to ground with a very small voltage and amperage (milli amp range). This in turn allows for thinner wires in the switches and less overall wiring which makes for a lighter car but most importantly, it allows endless configuration possibilities of switches and events.
The system has been ordered and is currently being configured and I hope to have it in hand shortly to begin the install. There is unfortunately no way for the end user to program it at home yet, but I am told it is coming. Right now the user has to email the factory with the changes he or she wants, and they will email a new configuration file to upload to the system in the car.
While I am waiting for the system to be delivered, I started to prepare the chassis for the location of the master cell, power cells and the motor controller that handles power windows, headlight motor and power locks. I fabricated some balsa sheets and covered them in fiberglass but the final product will be ABS plastic. The master cell and motor control (inMotion) will be located where the factory CEB was located, and while I was at it, I made a larger tray that sits under the center console. This will hold fuse blocks for the audio system and other components as well as future electronic additions.
I have slowly begun to tear down the stock harness to learn where all the wires go and how they are connected, but will only reuse the wires that go from the digital dash and the diagnostic plug. All other wiring and connectors will be brand new, and of larger gauge. As you can see in the picture below, it shows a comparison of the stock headlight connectors and its wiring, and I have put larger gauge wiring next to it. The ISIS system uses 14 AWG wires for power distribution, so that is what I am using for all light connections. Stock gauge for the headlights is 1.0mm2 cross section which is slightly thicker than 18 AWG. Pretty thin! If you go to this link you will find out just how much voltage loss wires have, and considering how thin (and oxidized) the factory wiring is, I am not surprised about all the electrical gremlins we see in these cars. http://www.genuinedealz.com/voltage-drop-calculator
I am also upgrading the headlight connector itself to a high temperature ceramic connector. It does require a small cut on the underside of the connector to clear the lower 4th pin on the H4 (euro) headlamp connection. But it is a very small cut and doesn't affect the integrity of the ceramic housing.
Basically every power wire run will increase at least 2 AWG units, and the sensor wires are also upgraded as well. This adds some weight, but it will be offset by the reduced amount of total wires, relays, fuse panel etc. All connectors are tinned copper for corrosion resistance and improved conductivity over brass. Battery cables are upgraded to 1/0 AWG from the battery to the starter, with tinned copper battery terminals.
I hope to have pictures of the actual ISIS system shortly. Until then, here is a link to the product page: http://www.isispower.com
Cheers!
Carl
I will for the other car - the real road car. My quick little test car with the rat motor will get minimal wiring. Lights, windows, start, wipers. That's basically it.
I do this research and buy these things and then I get bogged down in details, and the car doesn't get on the road. I am trying to change that.
I do this research and buy these things and then I get bogged down in details, and the car doesn't get on the road. I am trying to change that.
I will for the other car - the real road car. My quick little test car with the rat motor will get minimal wiring. Lights, windows, start, wipers. That's basically it.
I do this research and buy these things and then I get bogged down in details, and the car doesn't get on the road. I am trying to change that.
I do this research and buy these things and then I get bogged down in details, and the car doesn't get on the road. I am trying to change that.

Carl
Some progress pictures from the past couple of weeks. The cooling fans are installed and the new parallel flow condenser is test fitted without any issues. The 12" Spal fans were acquired here: http://www.a1electric.com and very reasonably priced. It fits perfectly with enough room on either side for coolant hoses and oil cooler hoses to fit without problem. According to the seller this is the kit with both motors being sealed, so we will see how that works out. I was originally going to use the stock S4 and up fan shroud, but it takes up so much space, and just one new fan costs almost as much as this entire Spal setup, which is really slim.
Condenser is very slim, light and fits perfectly. Much thinner than the stock unit. It came from here: http://www.griffiths.com/porsche/ac/928ac/index.html
Great service, fast delivery and knowledgeable about the 928.
The drive-by-wire throttle is currently being test fitted, and does need some modification in order to be used with the stock pedal, which I think is so much more ergonomic than the pedal that came with the DBW pedal switch. Will post finished picture once I get it aligned properly. Several aftermarket ECU's currently take advantage of drive-by-wire so it allows me to use one from either GM, Holley or FAST. It also allows easy integration of cruise control with a pedal interface type cruise control.
The home-made CEB and center console tray were made out of ABS plastic sheet, and will provide room for the ISIS system and other gadgets. I am currently in a holding pattern waiting for the rear seat insulation to arrive from Porsche in Germany, being told it is the LAST one. Once that arrives I can finish up the sound insulation install with the last covering, which will be 1/8" closed-cell foam from http://www.raamaudio.com/ensolite-iu...on-the-market/
Cheers!
Carl
Condenser is very slim, light and fits perfectly. Much thinner than the stock unit. It came from here: http://www.griffiths.com/porsche/ac/928ac/index.html
Great service, fast delivery and knowledgeable about the 928.
The drive-by-wire throttle is currently being test fitted, and does need some modification in order to be used with the stock pedal, which I think is so much more ergonomic than the pedal that came with the DBW pedal switch. Will post finished picture once I get it aligned properly. Several aftermarket ECU's currently take advantage of drive-by-wire so it allows me to use one from either GM, Holley or FAST. It also allows easy integration of cruise control with a pedal interface type cruise control.
The home-made CEB and center console tray were made out of ABS plastic sheet, and will provide room for the ISIS system and other gadgets. I am currently in a holding pattern waiting for the rear seat insulation to arrive from Porsche in Germany, being told it is the LAST one. Once that arrives I can finish up the sound insulation install with the last covering, which will be 1/8" closed-cell foam from http://www.raamaudio.com/ensolite-iu...on-the-market/
Cheers!
Carl
I used the Griffith's compressor kit in my 81. Even with all stock evap and condenser units it still works well.
I am sure with your better condenser you should freeze your hands when driving if you are using that kit.
It is cool to see where your GT has come from and where you are taking it. Keep up the good work.
I am sure with your better condenser you should freeze your hands when driving if you are using that kit.
It is cool to see where your GT has come from and where you are taking it. Keep up the good work.
Socal Joe, the AMG dude, Wayne, Chuck and MAYBE a few jobs paid for have led the way in impressive rebuilds/updates but I think this one is taking the lead. Amazing attention to detail.
Thanks all for the kind words. Hopefully there will be some useful "stuff" in this rebuild that can be of use to everyone else, and I am hoping to show there are several options available to replace the NLA issue and failing old age components such as ECU's, electrical systems etc. There have been lots of improvements in everything from lighting, engine control and electrical components, so my goal is to get this build the most up-to-date components I can and still keep the driving essence of a 928.
None of this is a "secret" project, so any information that can be useful to other owners will be happily shared.
Cheers!
Carl
None of this is a "secret" project, so any information that can be useful to other owners will be happily shared.
Cheers!
Carl
Last edited by FLYVMO; Apr 2, 2014 at 04:27 AM.
Yes it is a parallel flow condenser, appears thinner than the stock condenser and a bit lighter. It is supposed to have improved capability over the stock one. Mounting points are the same, so it fits perfectly. Won't know about actual cooling capability until this fall....





