Blown headgasket, time to get dirty
#32
Rennlist Member
I wouldn't. Just get a case of brakekleen and rags
#33
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you plug the oil drain tube, the dipstick, the tstat housing and whatever other holes I've missed, and focus on the bottom half of the engine, I don't see why you couldn't knock the big chunks off. I'd follow with compressed air to dry, very thoroughly, to make sure you don't leave standing water on anything.
#34
Rennlist Member
Your taking this engine out right?
The belt tensioner should have a rubber cover so suspect it has no oil, rebuild or replace w/porkensioner.........oil pump gear looks shot so replace all cam belt gears, the belt and water pump.
With the engine out do all the gaskets and seals and spend much time cleaning........good luck.
The belt tensioner should have a rubber cover so suspect it has no oil, rebuild or replace w/porkensioner.........oil pump gear looks shot so replace all cam belt gears, the belt and water pump.
With the engine out do all the gaskets and seals and spend much time cleaning........good luck.
#35
Former Sponsor
I had an oil leak from the front/driver side area of the engine ever since I got the car. Did a TB/WP service including replacing cam tower gaskets, all cam seals, o-rings, etc, distributor seal, FMS, oil pump o ring, and still have a leak in that area. It has gotten worse recently and leaves a few spots of oil in the driveway, and the entire area of the block around the oil filter and oil ports is soaked. What are the chances I have a leak similar to Emickelsen? Or should I tear it apart again and make sure I didn't mess something up?
#36
Team Owner
Note if you use any water it will also give the sealed areas time to start corroding, especially at the cam and crank radial seals,
Your going to have enough of a mess with all the coolant , drain the block first, I would use brake cleaner and a brush, stay away from the engine seals
Your going to have enough of a mess with all the coolant , drain the block first, I would use brake cleaner and a brush, stay away from the engine seals
#37
Rennlist Member
If you sealed up the cam seals and o-rings, along with the distributor, that only leaves the cam carrier gasket or the head gasket. Leaks in that area are getting to be more common, as these engines get older. Pretty tough to make paper based gaskets last over 25 years.
#38
Former Sponsor
And I have absolutely no idea why they put that coating, part way, on this gasket, to this day!
#39
Burning Brakes
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Your taking this engine out right?
The belt tensioner should have a rubber cover so suspect it has no oil, rebuild or replace w/porkensioner.........oil pump gear looks shot so replace all cam belt gears, the belt and water pump.
The belt tensioner should have a rubber cover so suspect it has no oil, rebuild or replace w/porkensioner.........oil pump gear looks shot so replace all cam belt gears, the belt and water pump.
TB and WP are a definetly getting changed. I could use a putty knife on most of the dirt and grime on there, thats why I wanted to knock as much as I could with the pressure washer. Probably would be better not to though. Thanks again for the input, more pic's and updates to come
#40
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I would REALLY love to not mess with the AC.
#41
Rennlist Member
I think I will try removing all the belt covers on that side of the engine, clean it, and run the engine to see exactly where the leak is. If the cam carrier gasket is still leaking, I'm pulling the motor to replace it. Such a PITA with the engine in the car.
#43
Former Sponsor
The front and rear of the factory cam carrier gaskets that have the moly coating on them don't stick to the head or the cam carrier, while the center section will stick. They move and split. You can usually see this, by looking right along the outer edge.
Some people apply Gasacinch or some other contact adhesive to keep that gasket from moving while they are trying to get the cam carrier on....as it is pretty easy to tear that gasket. This is the "kiss of death" for that gasket. Might as well tear it iinto little pieces and install it. When I install the cam carriers, I always have a little "pile" of gaskets, so that I can throw away any that get "compromised" during installation....
It is a PITA, the first time...the second, third, and fifth times just make you crazy. You really need to do yourself a favor and throw that stock gasket in the trash, because if you are trying to learn what it takes to make that gasket work, on your own, you are going to need "wing nuts" on that engine before you are done.
#44
Rennlist Member
Hard to be 100% sure looking at that 3rd pic but it looks like you have either the wrong tensioner or wrong tensioner arm. The pushrod between the tensioner and arm should not be at that kind of angle. If it's just an optical illusion, great... but if it's not you'll want to "fix it right".
#45
Rennlist Member
Dont forget to break the crank bolt free while you can lock down the flywheel.
Do you have the engine removal instructions from the manual?