Rob Edwards

Eric-

So you do have hydraulic mounts on the '83- here's the setup from PET, below. Obviously different from the factory manual, which shows the '78 configuration.

To R&R the engine you only need to undo bolts #21 and 23 (4 of each, they're shown right side up in the diagram but come out from the bottom...)

To actually R&R the mounts with the engine out you'll still need to undo the steering U-joint from the rack, remove the crossmember lower plate (#13) and drop the rack out of the crossmember in order to get to the lower MM nuts (#5 in the pic). You can leave the rack's tie rods connected to the spindles, and I think (but am not 100% sure) that you don't have to undo the hydraulic hoses from the rack either.

You do run the danger of WYAIT-itis, but new Volvo mounts are $93 for a pair from Roger. Worth the cost IMO. The other WYAIT is some new delrin rack mount bushings, if there's any lateral play in the rack. Will make a big difference in steering feel.

Emickelsen

AWESOME!! Thanks Rob.

Well, I think I'm ready to pull the engine. Followed the check list in the manual. got all the wires pulled aside (I think). Some thing I did is that every time I took a bolt or nut off to remove something, that bolt/nut went right back into the hole from whence it came. Also, I found out that 19mm (the bell housing bolts) is exactly equal to 3/4. Which saved me, 'cause i didn't have a 19mm wrench to get at the top bolts.

Anyhow, so it's all rigged up. I am planning on starting the pulling tomorrow. I think the rigging is ok. I tried to lift it just a little to see if it would move, it did NOT move. Do I need to break the seal between the engine and the bell housing, snap it loose some how?

Rob Edwards

That crossbar's gonna have to come out...


RE: popping the bellhousing off the back of the block, did you undo the two tranny mount - to crossmember bolts? Once those are undone, I think you can pry the whole tranny/TT back 1/2-1", which should pop it off the block. But I've never done this on an auto, so there may be coolant/vacuum lines I'm forgetting...

You might want to do that first, and then there' s the matter of how you're going to move the hoist backwards to clear the engine compartment. Can you roll the car back and out of the way without losing it down the driveway?

jeff spahn

I see lots and lots of wings on the wall but way too few rotors. How can you really enjoy flying RC if you aren't trying to keep 3000 parts from beating themselves out of the air and into a crumpled heap on the ground?

Emickelsen

Good question. No answer.

OK, i feel stupid. I meant to put that in the last post. I waiting until the last moment. didn't want the car to settel.

No I didn't. The manual didn't say anything 'bout that. Is that where they mentioned the piece of wood uder the TT? Is that in the back where the TT meets the tranny?

Emickelsen

Yes I can (thank God)

Rob Edwards

Page 10-15, on the engine removal instructions for a 32V car, they use an automatic as an example. Step #23.

Emickelsen

Ok Rob, I see what you mean. That looks EXACTLY like mine. Interesting they wouldn't mention it in the other section. Why do you figure you would have to loosen the two tranny bolts? To allow the whole tranny and TT to tip forward once the engine is sepeeated from the bell housing? Who knows I'll give it a go.

Rob Edwards

Eric-

I don't know whether it's really necessary, but I did it on both engine pulls of mine, as it allows you to slide the whole bellhousing/TT/tranny back a half inch towards the rear of the car, off the dowel pins in the back of the block. Since the engine more or less has to go straight up 2-3 inches before it can move forwards, you want to have the block and bellhousing separated before you start going up.

Hopefully someone who's done this on an automatic car can chime in on the potential 'gotchas' that I don't know about.

Emickelsen

OK, answers my question. I have engine movement, but that is my exact problem. Didn't even think to move it all back. Is there a trick to that? Do I pull it from the rear or something? The driver side tranny bolt was/is a real bitch, one of the cooling lines (at least I think thats what it is) is in the perfect wrong place. It probably would have been easier to pull the heat shield from over the muffler, but i'm just stubborn that way . I'll give that a go, and it should do it. Now just cross your fingers and hope I have all the hoses and lines properly disconnected.

A note to future users, thanks to Rob for mentioning the steps in the 32 valve car section. The bolts on the drive plate and the tranny bolts (steps 21-23) are a key step in the process, and are NOT mentioned in the 16 valve car section. Some not should have been put in there to refrence the other section. Good to know

Rob Edwards

1. 3 pumps on the hydraulic cylinder

2. Walk 180o around the front of the car, looking for stuff you forgot to undo (engine ground strap, starter/alternator harness clamp on crossmember, etc.)

3. Goto step 1.

namasgt

I undid the transmission bolts on my Automatic, take them out completely, you will need to undo the hand break cable before you can get to the bolts, dont think thats a cooling line on your car. My bell housing was stuck to the block, I end up spraying some PB blaster and hitting the area with a mallet while someone pulled on the engine. When it slightly separated, I was able to push the transmission back a little bit and wiggle the engine loose.
Don't forget to undo the engine to body ground strap, I missed it last time around.

Emickelsen

Ya, mine was stuck to. A few lifts and drops of the engine broke it loose. Thanks for the heads up on the ground strap. Got that one, just wondering what I didn't get. Robs fine checklist will take care of that. Wish I could work on it more. The timing of all this is terrible.

Emickelsen

Ok, i'm at a bit of a loss. I have seperation between the bell housing and the engine. Justg not enough. The engine cant go forward until it's above the mount saddle. The tranny/TT/bell housing can't go back any further due to the rear crossmember. Now what?

Emickelsen

AS USUAL!!!! Have a problem, post it to the web and it will instantly and magically be solved.

We have lift off!! Sucess. I'll have more and better pics tomorrow morning when the lighting is better. Hey Rob does it look like I mounted it to the stand ok? I've never done that befor and want to make sure it will be safe.