U-928

Round bar. 1" .120" wall DOM. Not chromoly like Carl's are. But mine was built with the intention to be Powdercoated, not left raw metal.

Ducman82

Sorry, I meant the frame brace. I made a steering brace as well, from lca to lca. Works wonders.

U-928

Sorry, yes the swaybar bushing bracket supports we're .065" wall 1" square stock. Primed and undercoated. Haven't been able to push it hard enough to notice a difference but I am still running the stock front end links....for now.

U-928

I picked up and just finished installing my "new" used set of Carl's solid aluminum motor mounts. A couple things stand out:

They (surprisingly) don't sit all that much higher than the very bad "OB style" ones I removed.

And when compared to Brian's car w/ the solid rubber volvo that I looked at on Saturday, they also sit lower. Not a surprise here though, it's "common" knowledge that the volvo mounts sit slightly higher than the factory ones.

One quick test drive with them in does confirm some peoples' complaints that they transmit significantly more vibration into the cabin/shifter. This, in my case, may be exacerbated by the fact that now I'm fairly sure that my TT bearings are shot. I had some strange intermittent vibrations with the old mounts that made me suspect this in the first place.

I was in spite of what some people have said in relation to mount replacing, able to replace the old ones and install the solid ones without completely removing the rack or the subframe. I however, do have access to a nice lift and shop full of tools....which I'm sure helps.

I'll be picking up the supplies for the next couple projects this week.

U-928

Old mounts are supposed to be multi-piece, right?

BRB-83-911SC

Hey Jeremy, just to clarify, the Volvo mounts on my car are liquid filled. And, yes they sit a bit higher than stock. Your car is looking great!

U-928

Thanks for the correction. I thought you had said they were the solids. My mistake!

U-928

My polyurethane motor mounts are complete, and installed and under rigorous testing...

My front sway bar links are also designed, machined, assembled and installed. Testing underway.

It should be noted that an air-powered grease gun should not be used to grease the zerk fittings on greaseable rod-ends. They (apparently!) can't handle the pressure and immediately remove themselves from their homes. I have new ones on the way.

AirtekHVAC

loookin goooooood

U-928

Small facelift. Picked up a set of really great condition 8" H4's. Immediately covered them in 40mil. Lamin-x to prevent any damage to them.

Ad0911

sounds like a good idea! Could you please explain what kind of material this is? And where to buy it?

U-928

Absolutely! An absolute must if you want to preserve a good (expensive!) piece of glass (or plastic) on the front or rear of a vehicle. I have the clear 40mil on the headlights of every vehicle I own. Yellow film on the 928 fogs and the lighter smoked on the bumper parking lights.

http://www.lamin-x.com/ is the website, and rather than hunt around for the (abundant) knock of brands, buy direct from their website. You then get their tech support if needed and they ship quite fast.

tilac999

H4s make a huge difference in the looks of a US 928. Love it. Nice find Jeremy.

U-928

Installed (and fit perfectly) the spare black leather MOMO Audi 4000 shift boot and shorty MOMO leather shift ****.

U-928

No progress on the "new" motor. So while this 4.5's still in place:

--installed new cam end cap cork gaskets on both sides
--removed stock cat and welded up cracks/leaks and cut off, pinched and welded shut the sec. air. injection pipe.
--removed remaining sec. air injection plumbing and capped inlets on airbox
--Installed the new taller, round shaft short shifter w/ momo boot and anatomic ****
--Installed new MOMO steering wheel, Model 78 in black suede ( so nice! )
--drained and replaced trans fluid, synthetic 75W90
--ordered new hatch seal

And now I sit patiently for my "new" LSD to arrive.