killav

Now everybody in this forum is going to call BS on this, but I ran inside to grab the computer to start the car, and it was 9:28 pm. No shiznit. Now I didn't get it started at 9:28, but I thought that it was close enough to be a good omen.

This video is not the first start, I had to autotune for a few minutes because I had changed to larger injectors. And, I didn't rev it to the moon in order to hear the turbo spool. I just took it off idle a bit to get the feel of it. As much as I want to hear this baby scream, must must tune first.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cm-7emtaXLs

Fabio421

Cool. Keep the updates coming.

And may the BWAAAA be with you.

fbarnhill

Sounds awsome. I hope your performance is what you hope for. Can we be looking forward to a 'Bill Ball' type video next? The one with the burn out? Anyway, I wish you the best. This is something I will also consider in the future.

Thanks for keeping us in the loop,

AO

ptuomov

You work very fast. I've been dealing with just a couple of projects for months now...

killav

The EZK map that I have loaded right now has the timing backed way off. It will take me a while to optimize, bringing the timing up slowly.

One oddity during my initial autotune was that the two adjacent cells at idle were way way apart numerically, one at -127 and the cell right below it at -10. Both were marked as green (tuned), but as the car hunted in and out of both cells, the idle would fluctuate. I let the car warm up so that the O2 loop would become active. I stopped autotune in order to let the O2 sensor do its thing. Once I did this, the O2 sensor adjust was all over the place, -1 percent all the way up to +15 percent or so. I manually adjusted the -127 cell to -10, to match the one next it and the idle smoothed right out. The O2 sensor adjust hovered around -1 to +2 percent. This is the second car I have had this happen on, the other being a 93 GTS.

ptuomov

The Sharktuner autotune doesn't IMO smooth enough across cells. I don't know of a situation where I'd use it at this point, I feel that I am doing a better job manually. Perhaps I am a risk factor on the highway, though...

I have found the Sharkplotter program much more helpful in getting the initial AFRs in the ball park, ready to start dyno tuning. Even after Sharkplotter adjustment, I smooth the maps a bit in Excel before uploading them.

On a dyno, Sharkplotter is not useful but it's very useful in getting the car's tune to a shape in which it can be driven to the dyno.

AO

Mike-

You will wast a lot of time if you don't follow these simple steps.

#1. Make sure the car is fully warm before doing any serious tuning. It makes a difference.

#2. You really want to disable the O2 sensor when auto tuning. Otherwise the O2 adjust will fight the autotune and you won't get a good baseline. I would disable it in the "Fuel Parameters" tab and disconnect the O2 sensor as well. You could use "Force Non-cat" but hten you have to remember to copy the maps from the non-cat maps to the cat maps. Make sense?

#3. The other thing to do is if you get a -127 or +127 value, exit the autotune and then re-enter it so it we re-adjust those cells. If you keep getting these extreme values, adjust the fuel injector size. If you need to add fuel (when you have a lot of +127) REDUCE your injector size. If you need to take fuel out, Increase the injector size. The pre-set value John has there are close approximations. I've not seen one boosted car that fit exactly those values - so don't be afraid to experiment.

This should give you a relatively decent baseline. Then, go through the cruise map and try to smooth out the values. You might see three cell together that look like "80 -20 70". I would adjust the -20 to something like 75.

After this step, get Jom Corenman's Shark plotter and go for a drive. His program shoudl get you an almost perfect cruise tune.

Then re-enable the O2 sensor - or not if you're like me.

Lastly, if you increased the injector size, you'll want to reduce the values in the warmup map. Running 42# injectors, my car is was in the low 10's on cold starts.

Have fun. THis is where the REAL work begins.

ptuomov

Sharkplotter helps you set the AFR to a value you choose. But how do you know what AFR is best based on Sharkplotter?

(Define best any way you wish, minimum BSFC, maximum torque, knock constrained max torque, etc.)

Fabio421

[QUOTE=Andrew Olson;7973698]Mike-

You will wast a lot of time if you don't follow these simple steps.

#1. Make sure the car is fully warm before doing any serious tuning. It makes a difference.

#2. You really want to disable the O2 sensor when auto tuning. Otherwise the O2 adjust will fight the autotune and you won't get a good baseline. I would disable it in the "Fuel Parameters" tab and disconnect the O2 sensor as well. [QUOTE]

How is the ST'er going to autotune with no O2 input?

ptuomov

You should disable the stock narrow-band O2 sensor one way or another when tuning. But of course you need to wideband sensor that is connected to the Sharktuner directly.

AO

If you re-read my post, I say to do this for the cruise map. I'd shoot for a goal of 14.7 AFR with it getting a bit richer at higher RPMs. Jim's base gols, should be fine. I would not use the SharkPlotter for WOT/Acceleration tuning. That should be done on the dyno.

Sorry, I should have distinguised between the NBO2 (what the LH uses) and the WBO2 (what the the STer uses). You should disable the NBO2 so the LH isn't making adjustments. You want the STer to make the adjustments.

killav

Good reading and lots of helpful advice. Thank you to all.

I am almost positive, that when autotuning, the sharktuner disables the Narrow band signal. However, when you data log, you need to disable the NBO2 sensor. There are two ways to do this, one involves changing over a few things in the ST set-up, and the other one (which is what I did) is to install a toggle switch on the Blue (data/voltage) wire from the Narrow band sensor. This is what I do when I am data logging, I just flip the toggle switch off, and presto, the NB signal is gone.

I have used the sharkplotter program a little before I started this project to familarize myself with it. It was amazing to see all the up and down cells smoothed out by the press of a button. It was a little tedious to do, autotune, data log, shark plot, auto correct the maps, copy the maps back over, re-save to PEM, etc etc, but well worth the time. I really think it is a must to use both of these programs to have a nice successful tune.

killav

I need to clarify, that the Y-pipe included in the kit, only has one O2 bung. So, I am running the WBO2 in that bung, and using the simulated NB signal from the shark tuner for the LH. This is where I have my toggle switch-in the blue wire of the Simulated NB output to the LH. If you have an x-pipe, it is possible to use your stock sensor for the LH, and the WB for the shark tuner. Using this set up is very useful, because you can compare readings from your stock O2 sensor and the WB sensor. But if you do this, like others have said, you will need to disable the input from the stock sensor to the LH. Un-plugging the whole sensor won't work, because you loose the heating for the sensor, and it will quickly be ruined by running the car without the heating element energized. You must place a toggle switch in your factory voltage wire coming from the NBO2, or follow the instructions in the ST manual of changing to non-cat maps and a couple of other things that I cannot remember at the moment.

Darien

Congrats Mike...welcome to the "boostards club"