Radically re-designed console (Carputer, Climate, and one-touch windows)
10-21-2011, 12:22 PM
#781
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I am new here and have enjoyed thumbing threw this thread. I am all in and for it. I may have missed a few pages so don't kill me when I ask if there has been a price range thrown around on this, and a 1st complete ready to ship out date yet? 
10-21-2011, 07:07 PM
#782
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Settin-
Thanks for checking out the thread. Pricing has not been posted.... because frankly I don't know what my costs are yet. The goal has always been to have a version which would compete directly against a top-rated double-din head unit and professional installation at a reputable shop.
We are getting close on a release. Many followers of this thread have heard this from me in the past (my appologies). The climate control, which has been the sticking point, has been finalized at the schematic level, and I have been doing board layouts. It's going well. Not as fast I would like, but moving forward. I have not hit any obstacles during the layout process.
It does look like I WILL be able to backpack the control module to the display module. For those looking at stock replacement, the new unit should come in somewhere around 1.5-1.75" thick, so you will have tons of extra room in the console - for things like express window modules
Thanks everyone for bearing with me on this long project. I hope it is upto everyone's expectations.
Thanks
Hans
Thanks for checking out the thread. Pricing has not been posted.... because frankly I don't know what my costs are yet. The goal has always been to have a version which would compete directly against a top-rated double-din head unit and professional installation at a reputable shop.
We are getting close on a release. Many followers of this thread have heard this from me in the past (my appologies). The climate control, which has been the sticking point, has been finalized at the schematic level, and I have been doing board layouts. It's going well. Not as fast I would like, but moving forward. I have not hit any obstacles during the layout process.
It does look like I WILL be able to backpack the control module to the display module. For those looking at stock replacement, the new unit should come in somewhere around 1.5-1.75" thick, so you will have tons of extra room in the console - for things like express window modules
Thanks everyone for bearing with me on this long project. I hope it is upto everyone's expectations.
Thanks
Hans
10-21-2011, 08:19 PM
#783
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We're all waiting patiently Hans. I'm sure you have a few hundred lurkers like myself that will, most likely, come out of the woodwork when the product is released and proven in the field. Keep up the good work!
D
D
10-21-2011, 10:54 PM
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10-21-2011, 11:07 PM
#786
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10-26-2011, 08:59 PM
#788
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Seems like it has taken forever, but the primary board is now all done. Sending out for prototype tomorrow. I cant really post pictures, as its too complex and densely routed to render properly in PDF/JPEG. It appears as though everything lines up to allow backpacking the control board behind the display board. Wont know for sure until the prototypes come in, but everything is looking up.
Getting really close now.
Hans
Getting really close now.
Hans
11-11-2011, 12:33 PM
#789
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Been a couple weeks, so time for an update.
I have four boards for the system completed. There may be a fifth and sixth board depending on how thing go from here. The boards which are currently done are:
Display/Interface PCB
Control PCB
I/O "card-edge" PCB
Rear AC PCB
The potential remaining PCBs would be a breakout for the spare channels for custom projects, and a fan control module board. Currently, the fan module is a stand-alone unit, but it may be better to integrate it into a PCB so I can better emulate the factory connector. I will test both configurations, and if necessary, I will either make a new fan control board, or just increase the size of the card-edge connector to include both the climate and fan connectors.
The primary 4 boards have been ordered. I should have everything before the end of next week. I have also ordered all the parts to build the prototypes.
If everything goes according to plan, both the display and control PCBs will be able to backpack ontop of one another, and all the SMD components are facing inwards, so they will be protected in-between the two boards. The socketed micro-controller (Arduino Nano) plugs into the back of the assmebly, so it can be easily removed/replaced in the field if necessary. An interesting note is that Frys is now stocking the Arduino Nano, so replacement parts are now available off the shelf in most markets.
Connection between the display and the control boards is via IDC16 ribbon. This can be replaced with a solid 16pin header for backpacking applications. Having either option makes the unit more flexible, as the display/controls can be run remotely for custom installs, or consolidated into a thicker but dense package for a stock replacement application.
Similarly, the connection to the rear AC module and/or auxiliary outputs is via IDC16, and the connection between the main controller and the card-edge board is via IDC40.
The ribbon cables are super easy to work with, and they can be shortened and even crimped at home with no special tools. Another interesting feature is that you can install multiple connectors on the same ribbon. This allows us to daisy chain the Rear AC module with a potential future breakout module.
The Card-edge module has a replica of the original connection found on the side of the stock climate controllers. so that will be 100% plug and play. There is one new connection that needs to be made, and its a +12v constant connection to the board. There is a 0.25" male Faston type connection for this. A wire will be provided which will allow taking this power from some source in the console. This is just for supplying the micro-controller power so it retains its settings with the car off, and does not pull enough current to effect any functions in the console. There is a standard ATC fuse holder on the card-edge connector for this supply, and I will be including a 1 or 1.5A fuse for this function... as its WAY more power than this can ever pull. The regulator upstream of this is only rated at 0.5a@5v max.
Also on the card-edge board is the AC relay. This has been upgraded to a 25A heavy-duty automotive relay. It should not burn out. However, to be safe, there is an ATC fuse holder for this function too. I imagine the correct value for this fuse will be somewhere between 2.5 and 5A. The original relay is rated at 2A and it fails. However, Porsche may have used this value, as the other parts may have an even greater sensitivity to system current. Using a fuse higher than 2.5A may cause downstream damage - I just dont know. However, its a normal ATC fuse holder, so people can test to their hearts content. The fuse can also just be bypassed, and perform just as the factory system, albeit with a heartier relay.
Its taken a whole heck of a lot more time than I ever anticipated. Not that its been a very difficult project, its just not an area I was particularly strong with. There has been a lot of learning for me along the way. Hopefully we can get some of the software guys here on the forum to take a crack at improving both the cosmetic interface on the LCD and the subroutines. As I mentioned recently, I have decided to make the entire project open-source. Customers will be provided with schematics and base firmware. Native board and schematic files will be available upon request (NC or NDA may be required... lots of time in those particular files). Competition breeds innovation... and since I really dont expect anyone else to make a replacement headunit, while I do welcome anyone else to try, I figure its best just to let others manipulate the existing resources, and hopefully provide the improvements to the rest of the community.
Thanks,
Hans
I have four boards for the system completed. There may be a fifth and sixth board depending on how thing go from here. The boards which are currently done are:
Display/Interface PCB
Control PCB
I/O "card-edge" PCB
Rear AC PCB
The potential remaining PCBs would be a breakout for the spare channels for custom projects, and a fan control module board. Currently, the fan module is a stand-alone unit, but it may be better to integrate it into a PCB so I can better emulate the factory connector. I will test both configurations, and if necessary, I will either make a new fan control board, or just increase the size of the card-edge connector to include both the climate and fan connectors.
The primary 4 boards have been ordered. I should have everything before the end of next week. I have also ordered all the parts to build the prototypes.
If everything goes according to plan, both the display and control PCBs will be able to backpack ontop of one another, and all the SMD components are facing inwards, so they will be protected in-between the two boards. The socketed micro-controller (Arduino Nano) plugs into the back of the assmebly, so it can be easily removed/replaced in the field if necessary. An interesting note is that Frys is now stocking the Arduino Nano, so replacement parts are now available off the shelf in most markets.
Connection between the display and the control boards is via IDC16 ribbon. This can be replaced with a solid 16pin header for backpacking applications. Having either option makes the unit more flexible, as the display/controls can be run remotely for custom installs, or consolidated into a thicker but dense package for a stock replacement application.
Similarly, the connection to the rear AC module and/or auxiliary outputs is via IDC16, and the connection between the main controller and the card-edge board is via IDC40.
The ribbon cables are super easy to work with, and they can be shortened and even crimped at home with no special tools. Another interesting feature is that you can install multiple connectors on the same ribbon. This allows us to daisy chain the Rear AC module with a potential future breakout module.
The Card-edge module has a replica of the original connection found on the side of the stock climate controllers. so that will be 100% plug and play. There is one new connection that needs to be made, and its a +12v constant connection to the board. There is a 0.25" male Faston type connection for this. A wire will be provided which will allow taking this power from some source in the console. This is just for supplying the micro-controller power so it retains its settings with the car off, and does not pull enough current to effect any functions in the console. There is a standard ATC fuse holder on the card-edge connector for this supply, and I will be including a 1 or 1.5A fuse for this function... as its WAY more power than this can ever pull. The regulator upstream of this is only rated at 0.5a@5v max.
Also on the card-edge board is the AC relay. This has been upgraded to a 25A heavy-duty automotive relay. It should not burn out. However, to be safe, there is an ATC fuse holder for this function too. I imagine the correct value for this fuse will be somewhere between 2.5 and 5A. The original relay is rated at 2A and it fails. However, Porsche may have used this value, as the other parts may have an even greater sensitivity to system current. Using a fuse higher than 2.5A may cause downstream damage - I just dont know. However, its a normal ATC fuse holder, so people can test to their hearts content. The fuse can also just be bypassed, and perform just as the factory system, albeit with a heartier relay.
Its taken a whole heck of a lot more time than I ever anticipated. Not that its been a very difficult project, its just not an area I was particularly strong with. There has been a lot of learning for me along the way. Hopefully we can get some of the software guys here on the forum to take a crack at improving both the cosmetic interface on the LCD and the subroutines. As I mentioned recently, I have decided to make the entire project open-source. Customers will be provided with schematics and base firmware. Native board and schematic files will be available upon request (NC or NDA may be required... lots of time in those particular files). Competition breeds innovation... and since I really dont expect anyone else to make a replacement headunit, while I do welcome anyone else to try, I figure its best just to let others manipulate the existing resources, and hopefully provide the improvements to the rest of the community.
Thanks,
Hans
11-11-2011, 01:27 PM
#793
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I am on the list.
11-11-2011, 01:32 PM
#794
Rest in Peace
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Been a couple weeks, so time for an update.
I have four boards for the system completed. There may be a fifth and sixth board depending on how thing go from here. The boards which are currently done are:
Display/Interface PCB
Control PCB
I/O "card-edge" PCB
Rear AC PCB
The potential remaining PCBs would be a breakout for the spare channels for custom projects, and a fan control module board. Currently, the fan module is a stand-alone unit, but it may be better to integrate it into a PCB so I can better emulate the factory connector. I will test both configurations, and if necessary, I will either make a new fan control board, or just increase the size of the card-edge connector to include both the climate and fan connectors.
The primary 4 boards have been ordered. I should have everything before the end of next week. I have also ordered all the parts to build the prototypes.
If everything goes according to plan, both the display and control PCBs will be able to backpack ontop of one another, and all the SMD components are facing inwards, so they will be protected in-between the two boards. The socketed micro-controller (Arduino Nano) plugs into the back of the assmebly, so it can be easily removed/replaced in the field if necessary. An interesting note is that Frys is now stocking the Arduino Nano, so replacement parts are now available off the shelf in most markets.
Connection between the display and the control boards is via IDC16 ribbon. This can be replaced with a solid 16pin header for backpacking applications. Having either option makes the unit more flexible, as the display/controls can be run remotely for custom installs, or consolidated into a thicker but dense package for a stock replacement application.
Similarly, the connection to the rear AC module and/or auxiliary outputs is via IDC16, and the connection between the main controller and the card-edge board is via IDC40.
The ribbon cables are super easy to work with, and they can be shortened and even crimped at home with no special tools. Another interesting feature is that you can install multiple connectors on the same ribbon. This allows us to daisy chain the Rear AC module with a potential future breakout module.
The Card-edge module has a replica of the original connection found on the side of the stock climate controllers. so that will be 100% plug and play. There is one new connection that needs to be made, and its a +12v constant connection to the board. There is a 0.25" male Faston type connection for this. A wire will be provided which will allow taking this power from some source in the console. This is just for supplying the micro-controller power so it retains its settings with the car off, and does not pull enough current to effect any functions in the console. There is a standard ATC fuse holder on the card-edge connector for this supply, and I will be including a 1 or 1.5A fuse for this function... as its WAY more power than this can ever pull. The regulator upstream of this is only rated at 0.5a@5v max.
Also on the card-edge board is the AC relay. This has been upgraded to a 25A heavy-duty automotive relay. It should not burn out. However, to be safe, there is an ATC fuse holder for this function too. I imagine the correct value for this fuse will be somewhere between 2.5 and 5A. The original relay is rated at 2A and it fails. However, Porsche may have used this value, as the other parts may have an even greater sensitivity to system current. Using a fuse higher than 2.5A may cause downstream damage - I just dont know. However, its a normal ATC fuse holder, so people can test to their hearts content. The fuse can also just be bypassed, and perform just as the factory system, albeit with a heartier relay.
Its taken a whole heck of a lot more time than I ever anticipated. Not that its been a very difficult project, its just not an area I was particularly strong with. There has been a lot of learning for me along the way. Hopefully we can get some of the software guys here on the forum to take a crack at improving both the cosmetic interface on the LCD and the subroutines. As I mentioned recently, I have decided to make the entire project open-source. Customers will be provided with schematics and base firmware. Native board and schematic files will be available upon request (NC or NDA may be required... lots of time in those particular files). Competition breeds innovation... and since I really dont expect anyone else to make a replacement headunit, while I do welcome anyone else to try, I figure its best just to let others manipulate the existing resources, and hopefully provide the improvements to the rest of the community.
Thanks,
Hans
I have four boards for the system completed. There may be a fifth and sixth board depending on how thing go from here. The boards which are currently done are:
Display/Interface PCB
Control PCB
I/O "card-edge" PCB
Rear AC PCB
The potential remaining PCBs would be a breakout for the spare channels for custom projects, and a fan control module board. Currently, the fan module is a stand-alone unit, but it may be better to integrate it into a PCB so I can better emulate the factory connector. I will test both configurations, and if necessary, I will either make a new fan control board, or just increase the size of the card-edge connector to include both the climate and fan connectors.
The primary 4 boards have been ordered. I should have everything before the end of next week. I have also ordered all the parts to build the prototypes.
If everything goes according to plan, both the display and control PCBs will be able to backpack ontop of one another, and all the SMD components are facing inwards, so they will be protected in-between the two boards. The socketed micro-controller (Arduino Nano) plugs into the back of the assmebly, so it can be easily removed/replaced in the field if necessary. An interesting note is that Frys is now stocking the Arduino Nano, so replacement parts are now available off the shelf in most markets.
Connection between the display and the control boards is via IDC16 ribbon. This can be replaced with a solid 16pin header for backpacking applications. Having either option makes the unit more flexible, as the display/controls can be run remotely for custom installs, or consolidated into a thicker but dense package for a stock replacement application.
Similarly, the connection to the rear AC module and/or auxiliary outputs is via IDC16, and the connection between the main controller and the card-edge board is via IDC40.
The ribbon cables are super easy to work with, and they can be shortened and even crimped at home with no special tools. Another interesting feature is that you can install multiple connectors on the same ribbon. This allows us to daisy chain the Rear AC module with a potential future breakout module.
The Card-edge module has a replica of the original connection found on the side of the stock climate controllers. so that will be 100% plug and play. There is one new connection that needs to be made, and its a +12v constant connection to the board. There is a 0.25" male Faston type connection for this. A wire will be provided which will allow taking this power from some source in the console. This is just for supplying the micro-controller power so it retains its settings with the car off, and does not pull enough current to effect any functions in the console. There is a standard ATC fuse holder on the card-edge connector for this supply, and I will be including a 1 or 1.5A fuse for this function... as its WAY more power than this can ever pull. The regulator upstream of this is only rated at 0.5a@5v max.
Also on the card-edge board is the AC relay. This has been upgraded to a 25A heavy-duty automotive relay. It should not burn out. However, to be safe, there is an ATC fuse holder for this function too. I imagine the correct value for this fuse will be somewhere between 2.5 and 5A. The original relay is rated at 2A and it fails. However, Porsche may have used this value, as the other parts may have an even greater sensitivity to system current. Using a fuse higher than 2.5A may cause downstream damage - I just dont know. However, its a normal ATC fuse holder, so people can test to their hearts content. The fuse can also just be bypassed, and perform just as the factory system, albeit with a heartier relay.
Its taken a whole heck of a lot more time than I ever anticipated. Not that its been a very difficult project, its just not an area I was particularly strong with. There has been a lot of learning for me along the way. Hopefully we can get some of the software guys here on the forum to take a crack at improving both the cosmetic interface on the LCD and the subroutines. As I mentioned recently, I have decided to make the entire project open-source. Customers will be provided with schematics and base firmware. Native board and schematic files will be available upon request (NC or NDA may be required... lots of time in those particular files). Competition breeds innovation... and since I really dont expect anyone else to make a replacement headunit, while I do welcome anyone else to try, I figure its best just to let others manipulate the existing resources, and hopefully provide the improvements to the rest of the community.
Thanks,
Hans
For folks in my trade a breakout box is something that we install between a computer and the harness to take readings, but I am sure that is not what this is.
11-11-2011, 01:35 PM
#795
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Are you getting the full deal?
What do you plan to do with yours as far as custom stuff?
I am going to run it as a virtual gauge setup and I am going to try and monitor just about every engine function that I can, from EGT's to intercooler temps, amd much in between, plus a full time Sharktuner so we can get lots of data.
What do you plan to do with yours as far as custom stuff?
I am going to run it as a virtual gauge setup and I am going to try and monitor just about every engine function that I can, from EGT's to intercooler temps, amd much in between, plus a full time Sharktuner so we can get lots of data.